Renogy 60a DC to DC charger D+ and LC wiring.

[Goolosh]

Does anyone know if you can make a jumper wire to connect the D+ to the LC to reduce current in half instead of running a second wire to the ignition on Renogy 60a DC to DC charger? It seems intuitive to jump the two ports since the manual recommends connecting the LC to the same ignition switch as the D+ but I’m afraid I might be missing something here. I want to limit the current in half to 30a until I get a larger alternator installed.

 

[pollenface]

If it is like other DC-DC chargers out there, I believe the ignition signal is to trigger the charger to turn ON when used with SMART alternators

If using solar, the batteries will likely be in a high state of charge, 9 times out of 10 and draw from the alternator will be minimal.

 

[grizzzman]

Does anyone know if you can make a jumper wire to connect the D+ to the LC to reduce current in half instead of running a second wire to the ignition on Renogy 60a DC to DC charger? It seems intuitive to jump the two ports since the manual recommends connecting the LC to the same ignition switch as the D+ but I’m afraid I might be missing something here. I want to limit the current in half to 30a until I get a larger alternator installed.

Yes

 

[Goolosh]

If it is like other DC-DC chargers out there, I believe the ignition signal is to trigger the charger to turn ON when used with SMART alternators

If using solar, the batteries will likely be in a high state of charge, 9 times out of 10 and draw from the alternator will be minimal.

Yes,

If it is like other DC-DC chargers out there, I believe the ignition signal is to trigger the charger to turn ON when used with SMART alternators

If using solar, the batteries will likely be in a high state of charge, 9 times out of 10 and draw from the alternator will be minimal.

Yes, the D+ port is for the ignition to engage the charger. The LC is to limit the 60a available to 30a. When I read the manual it only says they recommend tying the LC (limit current) wire to the same wire the D+ (ignition) is connected to. I just thought running a new wire from the rear of the vehicle to the front again would be a waste of time if I could just run a jumper wire between the two ports and continue using one wire. I don’t see why not, just wondering if anyone had done it.

 

[grizzzman]

Yes,

Yes, the D+ port is for the ignition to engage the charger. The LC is to limit the 60a available to 30a. When I read the manual it only says they recommend tying the LC (limit current) wire to the same wire the D+ (ignition) is connected to. I just thought running a new wire from the rear of the vehicle to the front again would be a waste of time if I could just run a jumper wire between the two ports and continue using one wire. I don’t see why not, just wondering if anyone had done it.

I have the early 40 amp version of this unit. I ran wires from the D+ to a switch then back to the LC for on the fly control.

 

[Goolosh]

I have the early 40 amp version of this unit. I ran wires from the D+ to a switch then back to the LC for on the fly control.

I went ahead tried the jumper wire and it works. What I did was run one wire from the ignition switch on my truck, splice a section of wire about 1” long, leave enough wire on the end to jump from the D+ to LC, fold the 1” section in half, stick the 1” folded section into the D+ port, strip the end of the wire, and jump it to the LC port. I installed a switch under my dash from the ignition to the DC charger. This way you only have to run one wire. My charger is in the rear of my truck camper and this saved routing another wire underneath my truck while only utilizing one wire.

 

[grizzzman]

I went ahead tried the jumper wire and it works. What I did was run one wire from the ignition switch on my truck, splice a section of wire about 1” long, leave enough wire on the end to jump from the D+ to LC, fold the 1” section in half, stick the 1” folded section into the D+ port, strip the end of the wire, and jump it to the LC port. I installed a switch under my dash from the ignition to the DC charger. This way you only have to run one wire. My charger is in the rear of my truck camper and this saved routing another wire underneath my truck while only utilizing one wire.

You loose the ability to turn on all the amps the unit can supply.

 

[OTRwSolar]

We used a battery isolator (BI) to feed 12v to switches we had connected to the Renogy's LC and D+ terminals (switchable off, 20a, & 40a modes). The BI would only pass power to the switches when the primary input voltage to the dc to dc charger was 13.3v or greater (alternator active/online). Prevents a dc2dc from discharging the batteries when the engine is not running (alternator offline <13.3V) even if the D+ switch (and/or ignition) is left inadvertently ON. Mounted the BI right next to the dc to dc charger using 3 short wires. No need to run wires to the ignition. Especially handy option for those folks with a dc2dc a good distance away from the vehicle battery or ignition switch (i.e., travel trailer, truck camper, etc.).

Not to go off on too much of a tangent . . . we installed a pair of 40a Renogy dc to dc chargers in parallel and used a few switches to control 12v input to the LC and D+ terminals on each dc to dc charger. This allowed us to select 0a (off), 20a, 40a, 60a, and 80a of charge current. A simple, easy mod that provides a lot of operational flexibility. Of course, wouldn't recommend trying this unless you have a very high-output or dual alternator(s) (>250a).

Although I haven't personally tried it, it may also be possible to parallel a pair of 40a and 60a Renogys and have the option to select 0a (off), 20a, 30a, 40a, 50a, 60a, 70a, 80a and 100a of charge current.

 

[Goolosh]

You loose the ability to turn on all the amps the unit can supply.

Yeah I know. I don’t think my alternator is sufficient enough to supply 60a. I want it cut in half to 30a until I upgrade to a larger alternator.

 

[Goolosh]

We used a battery isolator (BI) to feed 12v to switches we had connected to the Renogy's LC and D+ terminals (switchable off, 20a, & 40a modes). The BI would only pass power to the switches when the primary input voltage to the dc to dc charger was 13.3v or greater (alternator active/online). Prevents a dc2dc from discharging the batteries when the engine is not running (alternator offline <13.3V) even if the D+ switch (and/or ignition) is left inadvertently ON. Mounted the BI right next to the dc to dc charger using 3 short wires. No need to run wires to the ignition. Especially handy option for those folks with a dc2dc a good distance away from the vehicle battery or ignition switch (i.e., travel trailer, truck camper, etc.).

Not to go off on too much of a tangent . . . we installed a pair of 40a Renogy dc to dc chargers in parallel and used a few switches to control 12v input to the LC and D+ terminals on each dc to dc charger. This allowed us to select 0a (off), 20a, 40a, 60a, and 80a of charge current. A simple, easy mod that provides a lot of operational flexibility. Of course, wouldn't recommend trying this unless you have a very high-output or dual alternator(s) (>250a).

Although I haven't personally tried it, it may also be possible to parallel a pair of 40a and 60a Renogys and have the option to select 0a (off), 20a, 30a, 40a, 50a, 60a, 70a, 80a and 100a of charge current.

That’s a good idea! I bought the 60a with the idea of purchasing a larger alternator in the future. I think 30a is more than I need and 60a is just overkill. Haha I will probably add a switch between LC and D+. So far my solar supplies plenty of power. Just nice to have back up.