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renogy dc-dc 50A, activate/de-activate alternator charging

walter-

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Do you see an option to Activate/De-activate the charging from the Alternator?
More specific; In some cases I don't want to change from the alternator. For example when I know there will be enough sun later or I don't need the extra battery capacity in a near future. This to prevent unneeded load on the alternator and engine (and the undeeded extra fuel consumption).
Do you see an option how I could disable the alternator charging without decoupling it from the starter battery?

At least from the manual I don't see the option. Or am I missing it?

Walter
 
I don’t have that unit but couldn’t you put a switch on the ING wire. Flip off the switch and the unit thinks the car isn’t running.

Mark
 
That was also my idea; but the unit just works as wel without the wire (according to the manual).
So I wonder if the unit know the difference between ING wire connected and not connected.
 
IGN connected or not does nothing at all for this charger operation. When the truck battery rises, the charge starts. That's all.
In your case, you'd have to literally switch the battery lead into the charger to shut it off. There's no controls for this , unless the Bluetooth app will allow you to shut it off.. but I haven't checked there.
 
Sounds like a good job for a relay, if you truly wanted to do something.
 
More specific; In some cases I don't want to change from the alternator. For example when I know there will be enough sun later or I don't need the extra battery capacity in a near future.

I'd consider leaving it as-is, especially if you have lead-chemistry batts which like to be fully charged as often/long as possible.

If you're driving in the daytime and the solar can handle the aux charging the alternator won't be tapped anyhow.
If you're driving in the daytime and the solar can't handle 100% of the charging the alternator's share would be a max of 25A (not 50A) due to solar's contributions.
relevant part of the manual
 
Do you see an option to Activate/De-activate the charging from the Alternator?
More specific; In some cases I don't want to change from the alternator. For example when I know there will be enough sun later or I don't need the extra battery capacity in a near future. This to prevent unneeded load on the alternator and engine (and the undeeded extra fuel consumption).
Do you see an option how I could disable the alternator charging without decoupling it from the starter battery?

At least from the manual I don't see the option. Or am I missing it?

Walter
I recall on FB there was a fella having a problem with the Renogy where if the starting battery voltage was high enough it was charging off the starting battery with the vehicle turned off.

This is exactly the reason I decided to go with Victron for DC to DC charging.
 
IGN connected or not does nothing at all for this charger operation.

I doubted this but looked it up and you are right. On this model the IGN is only for activation with "smart" alternators.

So I suppose if OP has a smart alternator then a switch on the IGN wire would suspend alternator charging when alternator voltage is below the non-smart voltage cutoff.
 
I recall on FB there was a fella having a problem with the Renogy where if the starting battery voltage was high enough it was charging off the starting battery with the vehicle turned off.

On the one I saw (possibliy different) he was triggering the connection with a 10A maintainer on the starter batt but the DC-DC would (of course) pull more than 10A. The charger would pull from the starter batt (or starter batt + maintainer) until LVD, then disconnect and the starter batt voltage would rise again, rinse and repeat. That scenario was an unforced user error, the system put in a weird situation but working as designed.
 
Sounds like a good job for a relay, if you truly wanted to do something.
Yep, you need only install a high-current 4-pin Relay along the Battery-->Fuse-->Renogy "12v input", and switch that relay (12V coil)using a very low-amperage 12v switch. (In the dashboard, if you are willing to go to all that trouble. Or in the engine compartment, if you're willing to open and close the hood to switch between "enabled" and "disabled".)

But, if you're willing to do that in-the-dash switch, it sounds to me as if you're a nearly perfect candidate for returning the "Renogy" and using my scheme instead: I can get up to 460 watts THROUGH THE 7-PIN BARGEMAN, WITHOUT ADDING MORE CABLES.

Renogy DC-->DC pulls massive current (at SUV/Truck Voltage, ~13.5V) through the long wires to reach the Renogy input terminals in the Trailer. To support 50A, you need both the "12V" and grounding return to support a bit more than 50A, requiring a wire size of #6-AWG. In my scheme, the Voltage of the "Trailer Battery Charge" is boosted by flicking the dashboard "enable 36v" switch. This allows ~460W of power to be supplied at only about 13A, right inside the Bargman cable. Within the receiving Trailer, a 36 Volt "Detector Relay" causes two other relays to switch "on":

  1. The "Trailer Battery Charge Switcher" switches the TBC from the "12v" trailer system, to become "hot" into the second relay instead;
  2. The "MMPT PV+ Input Switcher" disconnects the genuine Solar Panels, and connects the "460 Watt, 36 Volt" virtual PV Array from the "Trailer Battery Charge" input wire instead.
Full details here: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/r...rs-of-mppt-charge-solar-in-the-trailer.20730/. In most cases, the trailer implementation takes less than an hour. The TV implementation is dominated by installing the dashboard switch - the rest takes only 60-90 minutes. The parts cost about $90.
 
@rickst29 you bring up a great point about opening the hood.
@fatermus If you don’t mind opening the hood. You could use a simple BlueSea Circuit Breaker to turn the main 12v cable on or off.
 
Maybe it would be an option to have a switch in the IGN cable; either it connects to the cars ignition output, or (off-mode) it connects to a 12V (or maybe even 11V) source. Maybe that 12V disables the charging in all cases.
 
Maybe it would be an option to have a switch in the IGN cable; either it connects to the cars ignition output, or (off-mode) it connects to a 12V (or maybe even 11V) source. Maybe that 12V disables the charging in all cases.
No - you don't want to add any kind of switch along the super-high-current ignition cable. Whatever you choose to use as the power consumer (My "Voltage Converter", or your current Renogy DC-->DC device at the Trailer end of a big, long cable) Should have it's own TV battery connection, through a fuse. The Relay on that smaller wire (this is "chassis wiring" for only a short distance) need not handle more than 60A, and could be as small as #8-AWG (even though I'd recommend using #6).
 
Fyi: The IGN cable is just a sensing cable ; this is not the cable that is used charge the home battery. There should not be any current in what Renogy calls the IGN cable.

Walrlter
 
Do you have a fuse or breaker on your charge circuit from the vehicle battery? If so just pull it.
 
I have been playing with the charger now (connected to a laboratory power supply able to provider 600W).

Actually it is a bit a stupid device and if I read the manual it is not really doing as promised. Or at least, the behaviour is not as what I would expect based on the manuals description.
The manual gives a specific behavior for 'traditional' versus 'smart alternator'.
But actually it should say it has a difference between IGN cable active or not.
IGN cable "active" ( = running engine and IGN sensing cable connected): Start loading service/home battery at 12V starter battery and stop when the starter battery is at 11.5V; 11.5 volts is almost a death battery (is it?, some charts say it only has 10% left)?; anybody knows if a 11.5V AGM battery can still start the engine? In practice, it just means if you start the engine, the IGN signal triggers the charger to start charging.
So with the IGN cable active, it will always be charging the service battery from the starter battery. No matter what the alternator is doing -unless the alternator goes above 16V). So the strategy with the IGN cable active, is to keep charging the home battery from the starter battery. No matter what the alternator is doing. Up to the alternator to keep the starter battery alive.
If you disconnect the IGN cable (= engine stops), it will stop charging if the voltage is below 13.2V. But if the voltage is above 13.2V it will jump into 'traditional' mode). See next ;-). I have no idea in how far a smart alternator would ever charge the battery up to 13.2V. Would it?
If the IGN is not connected (=no running engine and IGN cable connected or not); the DC-DC charger will start charging when the alternator brings the voltage to 13.2V. But 13.2 volt could also be a highly charged battery. And it will charge until the starter battery drops below 12.7V; that is about 15%DOD. So it might continue charging for quite some time after the engine stops. Specific if the alternator brought the battery to 100% of its capacity. I don't know how far this is an issue. At least it would means that a starter battery with such a charger would run more cycles. So in this mode the alternator starting will start the charging. That goes on until the alternator stops and the battery goes below 12.5V (would a smart alternator do that?). If the alternator starts charging the battery again, the charger will work again until the battery reaches 12.5V? In how far do alternators allow a battery while driving to go below 12.5V?
And also: This 'traditional' behaviour is maybe also not so bad to be used with a smart alternator. But maybe a smart alternator never produces 13.2V (which would surprise me, or am I wrong).

Related here: I somehow was expecting the 'smart alternator' mode, to be a mode where he would charge first of all from the alternator. But that is maybe my wrong expectation. I thought some charger check the D+ signal to know if the alternator is running and start charging at that moment. Here the logic on 'smart' seems revered. Just consume what is in the started battery and leave it up to the alternator to keep the starter battery alive. Maybe that is not so bad after all.

Side note: the charger takes more current if the starter battery voltage (or what come from the alternator) is higher.
But there is a big difference in this relation current/voltage in the traditional versus smart mode (read: IGN not active versus active). In traditional mode at 13V, it would only charge about 10-15A, in 'smart' mode is would charge about 30A. Maybe this could be a driver to choose using the IGN cable or not.

But anyway: If I want to control if the charger can work from the engine or not: the only option seems to be to put a relay between starter battery and charger. The IGN sensing cable is of no use. And maybe this should be a relay feeded by the home battery. And if the home battery is low: the relay should allow the charging...

Walter
 
ps: I checked the app; there are no real configuration options.
Only issue: the current measure seems to be off at high currents: then the app reports input power to be higher then output power. Giving the device an efficiency higher than 100%. At lower power, the values seems to be ok.

Walter
 
That was also my idea; but the unit just works as wel without the wire (according to the manual).
So I wonder if the unit know the difference between ING wire connected and not connected.
correct - wire only needed for "smart" alternators, it has a VSR for traditional ones
 
Voltage Sensitive Relay - programmed to switch on and off at set voltages - in this case the battery low and battery high voltages that make the DCDC disconnect
 
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