Replacing 12v power supply in camper with DC/DC converter

[WolfbaneAries]

Currently my camper is plugged into an outlet powered by my 16kw 48v solar system, thus everything 12v in the camper is being powered by the on board converter.

My thoughts are that rather than the power coming from the DC bus, inverting to 120v, then being converted back to DC, I could install 48vDC/12vDC converter and run that directly to the camper, then shut off the on-board converter and remove the batteries.

Besides a small improvement in efficiency, I don't love the fact that the camper batteries are directly next to my head when I'm asleep in bed.

My questions are:

1. Is it even worth the trouble?
2. Can I remove the onboard batteries and power the camper 12v directly from the converter without any batteries connected?
3. The only 12v being used in the camper are lights, whatever the propane fridge requires, and sometimes the fan. I'm thinking a 10amp supply would be sufficient?

 

[Bobert]

Currently my camper is plugged into an outlet powered by my 16kw 48v solar system, thus everything 12v in the camper is being powered by the on board converter.

My thoughts are that rather than the power coming from the DC bus, inverting to 120v, then being converted back to DC, I could install 48vDC/12vDC converter and run that directly to the camper, then shut off the on-board converter and remove the batteries.

Besides a small improvement in efficiency, I don't love the fact that the camper batteries are directly next to my head when I'm asleep in bed.

My questions are:

1. Is it even worth the trouble?
2. Can I remove the onboard batteries and power the camper 12v directly from the converter without any batteries connected?
3. The only 12v being used in the camper are lights, whatever the propane fridge requires, and sometimes the fan. I'm thinking a 10amp supply would be sufficient?

do you have any slides or levelers? These often require substantial amperage to operate.

 

[WolfbaneAries]

do you have any slides or levelers? These often require substantial amperage to operate.

Slides yes but the camper is "permanently" installed on blocks with the slides out.

 

[trad]

"permanently" changes everything. Most campers are intended to be mobile. As long as you will never wish it was mobile again, you can do anything you want. Rip everything out and declare it a detached bedroom.

 

[yodamota]

personally I would get a bigger supply. but i do not know how much 48v-12v converters costs.

you could also send the 48v to the 12v batteries, with the 48v going to the solar input of a charge controller for the 12v battery.

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

And you can even do 120vac -> 12vdc - this is what I do. My trailer is powered by an MPP Solar 3048LV (48v battery) at 120v as the main wiring and I use 120vac -> 12vdc power supply for the 12v subsystem - e.g. water pump, some heat strips, and powered tongue jack. This is simpler for me as all power (120v and 12v) thru the trailer comes from 120v and I can turn off the MPP Solar/Battery for long storage and when using grid only the 12v subsystem still works.

They come in a variety of amps and the efficiency loss is negligible. Here's a 30a - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJVYDDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title - I use for my tonque jack and it's held up well - e.g. bouncing and 15F low temps etc.

 

[HarryN]

Would a 48 volt in - 13 volt out, DC - DC converter work for you?

15 amps is pretty easy for those.

 

[wopachop]

The answer to question #2 is yes. Since you're plugged into 120v might as well just keep the onboard converter.

Only issue is down the road if you tow the trailer it needs a working 12v battery for the emergency brakes.