RV A/C Efficiencies

[blutow]

Yes. It fluctuates between 900-1000 watts. I've seen it as high as 1100, but not over

I have the same ac and have seen it run at 1200 watts with exterior temps at around 90F. Compressors run harder as temps go up and I expect to see it go a little higher as we get into real summer heat. I’m very happy with the ac, it’s really quiet both inside and out.

I think it’s just a matter of time before someone makes a truly modern and efficient rooftop ac that leverages the technology in mini splits. The 14” hole is not a significant limitation, there just needs to be a market for folks willing to pay $2k instead of $900 for an ac unit.

battery technology is getting to a point where it’s reasonable to have well well over 10kwh capacity, and that starts making it possible to run some ac, at least overnight without running a generator.

 

[eXodus]

I have the same ac and have seen it run at 1200 watts with exterior temps at around 90F. Compressors run harder as temps go up and I expect to see it go a little higher as we get into real summer heat. I’m very happy with the ac, it’s really quiet both inside and out.

I think it’s just a matter of time before someone makes a truly modern and efficient rooftop ac that leverages the technology in mini splits. The 14” hole is not a significant limitation, there just needs to be a market for folks willing to pay $2k instead of $900 for an ac unit.

You can already buy those in China, 48V direct DC inverter type Roof Air.

http://www.aislu.com/documents/MSD_rvairconditioner.pdf

Roof top caravan air conditioner

Aislu rv roof top air conditioner

www.aislu.com

Usually with those suppliers you need to order like 5-10 (whatever goes on one palette) Group buy ?

 

[Lt.Dan]

You can already buy those in China, 48V direct DC inverter type Roof Air.

http://www.aislu.com/documents/MSD_rvairconditioner.pdf

Roof top caravan air conditioner

Aislu rv roof top air conditioner

www.aislu.com

Usually with those suppliers you need to order like 5-10 (whatever goes on one palette) Group buy ?

I'm in for 3x 48v 15k BTU units if someone puts it together.

 

[blutow]

You can already buy those in China, 48V direct DC inverter type Roof Air.

http://www.aislu.com/documents/MSD_rvairconditioner.pdf

Roof top caravan air conditioner

Aislu rv roof top air conditioner

www.aislu.com

Usually with those suppliers you need to order like 5-10 (whatever goes on one palette) Group buy ?

Nice. With the current boom in the Rv market, there has got to be an opportunity for someone. Unfortunately, it is a very slow moving market where cheap crappy products seem to rule the day and change is slow.

 

[GSXR1000]

Nice. With the current boom in the Rv market, there has got to be an opportunity for someone. Unfortunately, it is a very slow moving market where cheap crappy products seem to rule the day and change is slow.

I could see them doing a 12v AC.. but we are a long way away from switching battery voltage

 

[Ram5500 CamperThing]

I have the same ac and have seen it run at 1200 watts with exterior temps at around 90F. Compressors run harder as temps go up and I expect to see it go a little higher as we get into real summer heat. I’m very happy with the ac, it’s really quiet both inside and out.

I think it’s just a matter of time before someone makes a truly modern and efficient rooftop ac that leverages the technology in mini splits. The 14” hole is not a significant limitation, there just needs to be a market for folks willing to pay $2k instead of $900 for an ac unit.

battery technology is getting to a point where it’s reasonable to have well well over 10kwh capacity, and that starts making it possible to run some ac, at least overnight without running a generator.

Makes Sense

I am still doing a lot of testing. My camper box is made specifically for extreme 4 season weather and insanely insulated. 2" thick FRP walls, 3.25" thick ceiling and floor.

For MY needs. This work amazingly well. If its 90 outside, i only need to run the AC less than an hour to cool the box down to 65-70F and it will stay cool 3-4 hours.

 

[blutow]

I could see them doing a 12v AC.. but we are a long way away from switching battery voltage

Agreed. I’d be happy with a good 120v option. With the efficiency of good Inverters these days, you don’t lose that much.

 

[Lt.Dan]

There are lots of people getting away from 12v, More now than ever. I went with a 48v system in my RV and ill never go back. It barely adds a little to the complexity, and the gains are tremendous. Including not having to run a cable the size of your wrist to an AC unit.

 

[chrisski]

I ran my RV AC for the first time in a long time. The AC seemed to never shut down and only cooled below ambient temp, perhaps 10 to 15 degrees. So, with the outside temp at 90 in full sun, and the inside temp set to 78, the AC never shut off.

Biggest thing killing me is insulation. Without improving insulation, I really don’t think anything I do to improve efficiencies to the AC itself will make a real difference.

So, all I can do, is shut the shades, limit how many times I go in and out, plug the roof vents with insulation, and not much more. I could of course park in the shade, but that kills my 950 watts of roof panels.

In the winter, the slideout floor gets cold, and that is simply a sheet of pressboard, no insulation, so I’m sure the RV conducts heat in from outside through there also.

Only thing I can see to make the situation good, is for me to purchase a tiny home frame, and build my own RV like a painting with a blank canvas. There was a frame for sale on Craigslist that was real tempting.

 

[richard cabesa]

Agreed. I’d be happy with a good 120v option. With the efficiency of good Inverters these days, you don’t lose that much.

In the documentation for the Aislu unit eXodus provided it shows a 120V option. Then whatever your battery voltage you could run it through your inverter.

I know, inverter loss, but an option

I couldn't find them for sale though. What did I miss?

 

[eXodus]

I'm in for 3x 48v 15k BTU units if someone puts it together.

I've reached out the email of the manufacturer and asked for a quote.

Let's see.

In the documentation for the Aislu unit eXodus provided it shows a 120V option. Then whatever your battery voltage you could run it through your inverter.

I know, inverter loss, but an option

I couldn't find them for sale though. What did I miss?

I found them on when I was looking for 48V split systems on Alibaba, but not this product.

No idea what they cost or if they are any good.

 

[Lt.Dan]

I've reached out the email of the manufacturer and asked for a quote.

Let's see.

I found them on when I was looking for 48V split systems on Alibaba, but not this product.

No idea what they cost or if they are any good.

Probably good to confirm that the mount in a standard 14x14 opening, and if they support ducted systems?

 

[blutow]

There are lots of people getting away from 12v, More now than ever. I went with a 48v system in my RV and ill never go back. It barely adds a little to the complexity, and the gains are tremendous. Including not having to run a cable the size of your wrist to an AC unit.

Agree that it will eventually get there, but I wouldn't count on it any time soon. You see some people on these forums going 48v, but keep in mind that the DIY crowd who hangs out on forums is a tiny, tiny percentage of the RV market. Most folks just get whatever crappy equipment the manufacturer installs and that is still overwhelmingly 12v along with 120v (in the US) through an inverter or shore power.

All you have to do is look at the recent release of the new victron multiplus designed for RV use. It's only available in 12v and they have said that they may add a 24v option if the demand is there. 48v is not even in the discussion at this point. Victron is one of the technology leaders in the space and is a favorite of the high end DIY crowd. If Victron isn't even talking about a 48v version of their RV-centric inverter, we're a long way from it being a ubiquitous standard when you go buy new RV. Knowing the RV industry, the typical "stock" RV will still be 12v 10+ years from now.

 

[richard cabesa]

I've reached out the email of the manufacturer and asked for a quote.

Let's see.

Please bring back whatever you find out.

Other questions I would have is if that 110V option would be available and do they have an engineering drawing available so we can see if it fits where our existing units are.

In general dimensions, it should fit where my existing Dometic dinosaur is.

I'm not willing to go 48V at this time. I am building a 24V stand alone system to power my AC panel. I would want the 110AC unit or a native 24V unit.

We are getting close for the off grid Air to work. Battery cost is coming down and the inverter tech is coming up.

Household mini splits meet the consumption requirements pretty well but the form factor sucks. Who wants to hang that compressor on the back and I have never been in a small RV with the wall space for 36" of evaporator. I know it has been done butttt . . .

 

[GSXR1000]

Agree that it will eventually get there, but I wouldn't count on it any time soon. You see some people on these forums going 48v, but keep in mind that the DIY crowd who hangs out on forums is a tiny, tiny percentage of the RV market. Most folks just get whatever crappy equipment the manufacturer installs and that is still overwhelmingly 12v along with 120v (in the US) through an inverter or shore power.

All you have to do is look at the recent release of the new victron multiplus designed for RV use. It's only available in 12v and they have said that they may add a 24v option if the demand is there. 48v is not even in the discussion at this point. Victron is one of the technology leaders in the space and is a favorite of the high end DIY crowd. If Victron isn't even talking about a 48v version of their RV-centric inverter, we're a long way from it being a ubiquitous standard when you go buy new RV. Knowing the RV industry, the typical "stock" RV will still be 12v 10+ years from now.

even in DIY crowd 24 and 48v scares them

 

[Lt.Dan]

And running an AC doesn't make sense with 12 or 24v, its barely feasible at 48v.

 

[jwelter99]

And running an AC doesn't make sense with 12 or 24v, its barely feasible at 48v.

The 15,000 BTU needs 1400W to run peak. That's 120A or so at 12V. That's a pretty significant wire to get to the roof in a gauge large enough to keep voltage drop low.

Probably easier to use a 12V to 48V step up to get the wire run down to reasonable and high current out of the walls and roof.

I'm a big fan of the mini-split setup even though they look a bit ghetto.

 

[Lt.Dan]

Even with a 12 to 48v step up converter, thats a pretty sizeable converter, and the cost isn't feasible anymore. Might as well stick with the 120v model you have

 

[Zwy]

The 15,000 BTU needs 1400W to run peak. That's 120A or so at 12V. That's a pretty significant wire to get to the roof in a gauge large enough to keep voltage drop low.

Probably easier to use a 12V to 48V step up to get the wire run down to reasonable and high current out of the walls and roof.

I'm a big fan of the mini-split setup even though they look a bit ghetto.

Easier to leave it 48V until it gets to the AC unit then convert it down. The voltage drop alone makes conversion at the ac unit desirable for the larger units.

Most likely you will see more 24V than 12V simply due to Europe has already moved to the 24V rooftop units for large trucks. Anti idling laws make this a necessity and running the APU power units was simply a stop gap.

 

[jwelter99]

Easier to leave it 48V until it gets to the AC unit then convert it down. The voltage drop alone makes conversion at the ac unit desirable for the larger units.

Most likely you will see more 24V than 12V simply due to Europe has already moved to the 24V rooftop units for large trucks. Anti idling laws make this a necessity and running the APU power units was simply a stop gap.

Wrong direction, we were pontificating over a 48V AC unit off a 12V system voltage....