Shore Power Inlet Recommendations?

[andrew-d]

Hi all, anyone have recommendations on a durable and reliable inlet for shore power on a van/RV–preferably 30A? I've seen two main options, and I'd be interested in any additional options or feedback on these:

1. L5-30P inlet, like this one off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/RVGUARD-Power-Locking-Stainless-Screws/dp/B085HFBLDN/
   • The Amazon ones look pretty cheap, and I'm not sure I'd trust them.
   • There's a Furrion-brand one that looks more reliable: https://www.amazon.com/Furrion-F30INS-BS-AM-Black-Square-Stainless/dp/B017P8HE6C
   • You can buy these inlets for industrial use from e.g. Hubbell, but I don't have any experience with these.
2. The (proprietary?) SmartPlug inlet/connectors: https://smartplug.com/

Thanks in advance!

 

[Aussieguy]

the RV power requirements and distribution panel sets the amperage
here in USA there is either a 30 or 50 amp inlet on the trailer/RV and you get a cord according to the size you need

Quality between brands I can't talk about only ever used one cord

 

[richard cabesa]

I have melted the twist lock style in your first two links (don't know what brand they were). I think caused by the previous owners not locking them in place. Also have worked in construction for 45 years and have seen it there running big compressors and high HP saws.

I really want to try the Smart Plug and hope someone will chime in here that has and will review it

Last twist lock I melted was when I had to run a 13.5K BTU air all day. Next morning it was quite the struggle to get unplugged

 

[andrew-d]

the RV power requirements and distribution panel sets the amperage
here in USA there is either a 30 or 50 amp inlet on the trailer/RV and you get a cord according to the size you need

Quality between brands I can't talk about only ever used one cord

I only need 30A @ 120V (and honestly, even less than that), but if there's a notably more durable or higher-quality option for a 50A inlet, I wouldn't mind putting a 50A inlet in.

I have melted the twist lock style in your first two links (don't know what brand they were). I think caused by the previous owners not locking them in place. Also have worked in construction for 45 years and have seen it there running big compressors and high HP saws.

I really want to try the Smart Plug and hope someone will chime in here that has and will review it

Last twist lock I melted was when I had to run a 13.5K BTU air all day. Next morning it was quite the struggle to get unplugged

Yeah, I've seen a few melted twist-lock style connectors over the years, and read horror stories about people's RVs or boats catching on fire as a result... hence looking for something much more reliable

 

[DIYrich]

Go to an RV dealer and buy one from their parts store. If they use it, it should be decent.

 

[richard cabesa]

Go to an RV dealer and buy one from their parts store. If they use it, it should be decent.

NO!!!! The nearest RV dealer to me I would not trust to install a tire valve stem cap!

 

[richard cabesa]

I only need 30A @ 120V (and honestly, even less than that), but if there's a notably more durable or higher-quality option for a 50A inlet, I wouldn't mind putting a 50A inlet in.

Don't bother going 50 A. It is just two 30A circuits derated. you don't have the fourth wire in your system to make any difference. No advantage there

 

[S Davis]

Here is one, I have one on order. The bad thing is I need an outlet as well and they are $250.00.

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-Inlets-Round-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000NI01TO/ref=asc_df_B000NI01TO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312062016371&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4461034442038623766&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027669&hvtargid=pla-436833680628&psc=1

 

[andrew-d]

Here is one, I have one on order. The bad thing is I need an outlet as well and they are $250.00.

https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-Inlets-Round-Stainless-Steel/dp/B000NI01TO/ref=asc_df_B000NI01TO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312062016371&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4461034442038623766&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1027669&hvtargid=pla-436833680628&psc=1

Oh, that looks pretty well-built! I'd love to hear more once it arrives for you ?

 

[justinm001]

Furrion makes a 50amp version of that plug you listed. I bought it for my old coach and worked well. That light turns blue so you know you're plugged in. If you can go 50amp and use 6 gauge wire throughout. You don't need to use the red wire/2nd hot/4th wire. But you'll get 50 amps instead of 30. Then carry a 50 to 30 adapter so you can use either plug.

Also consider adding a 15amp plug as well. I got a Noco 15 amp plug one similar to the furrion one but rubber and out it next to my 50amp and wired to the 50amp so could use either. Was nice because a normal extension cord end goes in it and everyone has a 15amp plug. I used this at home as no need for more amperage since I have solar and lots of batteries. Best part is I put the plug on the back of the coach so if I forgot to unplug it it'll just breakaway and I won't be dragging an extension cord down the road again...

 

[justinm001]

Don't bother going 50 A. It is just two 30A circuits derated. you don't have the fourth wire in your system to make any difference. No advantage there

No it's not. 50amp plug is 2 hot 240v split phase. Same type of plug an electric oven or dryer uses. 12,000w instead of 3600w. Even if you can only use 1 leg 120v you're getting 6000w.

 

[Shimmy]

Pin and sleeve outlets are by far the most durable and reliable... but expensive.

 

[RoadTurtle]

Don't bother going 50 A. It is just two 30A circuits derated. you don't have the fourth wire in your system to make any difference. No advantage there

WRONG!

It's split phase with each leg running at 50 amps each for a potential total of 12,000 watts / 100 amps.

 

[RoadTurtle]

Hi all, anyone have recommendations on a durable and reliable inlet for shore power on a van/RV–preferably 30A? I've seen two main options, and I'd be interested in any additional options or feedback on these:

Read a lot of good things about smart plug connectors
.

RV Accessories | RV Electrical Connectors | RV Power Cords

The SmartPlug is a revolutionary shore power system designed to replace the outdated and problematic twist-type design in use today.

smartplug.com

 

[richard cabesa]

I Stand corrected

 

[wme]

WHY? You are still going to carry a shore power cord. So just hardwire a cord of your desired length and eliminate a failure point.

 

[justinm001]

WHY? You are still going to carry a shore power cord. So just hardwire a cord of your desired length and eliminate a failure point.

Because it's a lot easier to manage. I keep 1 cord in the coach and another stays in my driveway. Saves time and keeps your bays sealed. And with solar I don't always bring the cord with me. Same with sewer and water lines.

 

[andrew-d]

WHY? You are still going to carry a shore power cord. So just hardwire a cord of your desired length and eliminate a failure point.

I'm sure others have different opinions, but for me, I'm looking for an inlet for a few main reasons:

1. I camp in places that get wet and/or have lots of bugs; having a cord that goes through an opening in the side of the RV is yet another way for moisture and bugs to get into an RV. A waterproof (or at least water-resistant) inlet would solve both of these. You only have to watch ants walking up a power cord into an RV once before it's something you start to care about, IMO ?
2. As mentioned above, I don't always go places with shore power; if I'm boondocking and have solar, there's no point carrying the weight of a 30ft 30A cable along with me, and I can use the space in my fairly-modestly-sized RV for something else.
3. A hard-wired inlet means that you won't accidentally stress or torque the shore power connections inside the RV. I've seen some pretty crappy installs where yanking hard on the hard-wired cable can loosen the connections to the breaker panel or converter or whatever inside the RV, which can lead to overheating and fires. Having a properly-installed inlet solves this.

Definitely agree that there's an additional point of failure with an inlet, hence the question about getting high-quality components and not buying a cheap $15 thing off Amazon that will definitely catch on fire if you look at it wrong ?

 

[justinm001]

I'm sure others have different opinions, but for me, I'm looking for an inlet for a few main reasons:

1. I camp in places that get wet and/or have lots of bugs; having a cord that goes through an opening in the side of the RV is yet another way for moisture and bugs to get into an RV. A waterproof (or at least water-resistant) inlet would solve both of these. You only have to watch ants walking up a power cord into an RV once before it's something you start to care about, IMO ?
2. As mentioned above, I don't always go places with shore power; if I'm boondocking and have solar, there's no point carrying the weight of a 30ft 30A cable along with me, and I can use the space in my fairly-modestly-sized RV for something else.
3. A hard-wired inlet means that you won't accidentally stress or torque the shore power connections inside the RV. I've seen some pretty crappy installs where yanking hard on the hard-wired cable can loosen the connections to the breaker panel or converter or whatever inside the RV, which can lead to overheating and fires. Having a properly-installed inlet solves this.

Definitely agree that there's an additional point of failure with an inlet, hence the question about getting high-quality components and not buying a cheap $15 thing off Amazon that will definitely catch on fire if you look at it wrong ?

Definitely agree. Especially since I just broke my shore cord. It has a plug but it's inside the bay door and when camping I had to backup a bit, ran over the cord and it broke the end. If I had the plug on the outside it likely wouldn't have been under the coach and even if it was it likely wouldn't have broke. If it was wired in I would have destroyed whatever was holding the wires together, breaker or whatever. Now I just need to repair/replace the 50a tip on the cord.

 

[Odom1957]

My recommendation is to use the Smart Plug. Basically everything we install now on boats are Smart Plugs.

The only down side is they don't make a 50a single leg version, but that isn't a common need anyway.

If you need 30a single leg service, then get the 30a plug, plus a 30a to 15a 4' adapter so you can plug in to a normal outlet to keep small loads like fridges, lights, trickle chargers, etc on without the need for 30a service.