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Solar Controller Setup Help Needed - UK Beginner

S

samde

New Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2024
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9
Location
UK, Sheffield
Hi everyone,

I'm from the UK, so apologies in advance for any time differences and British slang that might confuse! 😄

I'm in the process of setting up my solar system using a battery I recently received, but I'm finding it challenging to figure out the settings required for my solar controller and the exact type of battery I have.

Could someone help me understand what settings I should configure on my controller and possibly identify the type of battery from the information provided? I've attached a picture of the solar controller's details for reference.

Thank you in advance for your assistance!

20240704_215845.jpg

My Setup So Far:
Solar panel: JA Solar JAM60S21-370/MR Solar Panel 370W Half-Cell All Black Module

Solar Controller: ECO-WORTHY 30A 12V/24V

Battery: PROBAT SFL120 120ah c100
Click to expand...

I'm open to any upgrade ideas etc.

Best regards,
Sam
 
samde said:
possibly identify the type of battery from the information provided?
Click to expand...

Welcome! My 2p worth...

PROBAT SFL120 120ah c100

SFL = Sealed For Life (i.e. maintenance free) lead-acid battery.

120Ah is the battery's capacity.

C100 means that the capacity measurement has been calculated assuming a discharge time of 100 hours. (i.e. it is not as good as (say) a C20 battery that could retain that capacity if discharged 5x as fast in 20 hours).

Sorry, I don't know about the charge controller settings.

P.S. I didn't have any problems with your English, even with you being oop north ;)
 
That is a PWM controller:


As such, you should use a solar panel with a Vmp value in the 17-20V-ish range. PWM controllers short the panel to the battery forcing the panel to work at battery voltage. Thus your 370W panel with a Vmp of about 35V will be forced to work at battery voltage rather than 35V. This means that your 370W panel will not product more than 14.4V * 11.35A (Isc) = 163W - less than half its rated output.

Bright side is that for a ~120Ah battery, 163W is likely a much better choice than 370W as 370W may charge with too much current.

You need to provide a link to the datasheet for your battery where it describes the needed voltages.
 
better yet - swap that device for a MPPT and watch out for fakes at the lower end of the price range and use the power the panel is sending.


NOTE - at the lower end of victron some of the controllers are strickly 12/24 an others are 12/24/48 - IMO it is worth getting the 12/24/48 version in case you want to use it on a larger install and bigger batteries later.
 
Thank you all!

I really appreciate the feedback and recommendations.

I managed to snag the solar panel for a steal (£20) on Facebook Marketplace, and it was brand new too... 👌 How could I resist at that price? 🤣
 
and I poked around for the battery to see if I could find a datasheet - no luck but it seems to be an AGM battery and 0.1C would be reasonable to charge at - so limit to 10amps and set the type.
 
robbob2112 said:
and I poked around for the battery to see if I could find a datasheet - no luck but it seems to be an AGM battery and 0.1C would be reasonable to charge at - so limit to 10amps and set the type.
Click to expand...

So, if I were to use my current solar charger until I can get the Victron, should I set the Eco-Worthy charger to SLA for this battery?

P.S. I will be upgrading to the Victron controller soon.

Thanks!
 
Given the limited selections, B01/GEL is probably the preferred option.

IMHO, the specs are reversed in the charger, i.e., 14.2V is more appropriate for GEL and 14.4V is more appropriate for SLA.

Please note that if that charger indicates a % charge value, it is very very very inaccurate and should be ignored.

That charger should take the battery to 14.4V and hold it there for 2 hours, then drop to and hold a 13.7V float voltage.
 
Hi Sam, no problems with British slang.
You have a great solar panel, a crap controller and a modest low end sealed lead acid battery.

As discussed, you wont get the full power from the panel, so a Mppt controller, a Victron 75/15 or a 100/20 will get a much greater daily yield, helping to charge the battery and power loads during the day. However the main advantage over the low cost PWM is they charge correctly. Units I have tested , looking identical to the Ecoworthy unit, charged continually at the absorbtion voltage, a reduction to float never happened.

The battery is re branded by any sellers, Probat brand is made in Turkey . Sealed lead calcium low maintenence. Expect 100 to 200 cycles discharging to 50%. In the UK, a quality true deep cycle lead battery costs as much as a resionable lithium battery.

I wouldn't worry too much about a too high charge current, it's basically a car starter battery. 15 to 20 amps maximum is perhaps a resionable charge current. Sealed lead acid, if not deep discharged, tend to self limit charge current.

For the moment use the PWM charger and gain experience.

A useful update would be a Victron Smart 75/15 or 100/20,

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Victron SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller 75/15

Victron Smart Solar 75/15 MPPT Charge Controller with Bluetooth built-in. For 12V & 24V systems in motorhomes, caravans, campervans & boats.
www.12voltplanet.co.uk

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Victron SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller 100/20

Victron Smart Solar 100/20 MPPT Charge Controller with Bluetooth built-in. For 12V & 24V systems in motorhomes, caravans, campervans & boats.
www.12voltplanet.co.uk

( I have no connection to the 12 Volt Planet company, its a useful one stop oulet in the UK for components)
 
robbob2112 said:
better yet - swap that device for a MPPT and watch out for fakes at the lower end of the price range and use the power the panel is sending.


NOTE - at the lower end of victron some of the controllers are strickly 12/24 an others are 12/24/48 - IMO it is worth getting the 12/24/48 version in case you want to use it on a larger install and bigger batteries later.
Click to expand...

Except the 100/20 is an oddity that also works for 48V - just really hard to get a suitable array on it and not blow the 100Voc limit.
 
mikefitz said:
Hi Sam, no problems with British slang.
You have a great solar panel, a crap controller and a modest low end sealed lead acid battery.

As discussed, you wont get the full power from the panel, so a Mppt controller, a Victron 75/15 or a 100/20 will get a much greater daily yield, helping to charge the battery and power loads during the day. However the main advantage over the low cost PWM is they charge correctly. Units I have tested , looking identical to the Ecoworthy unit, charged continually at the absorbtion voltage, a reduction to float never happened.

The battery is re branded by any sellers, Probat brand is made in Turkey . Sealed lead calcium low maintenence. Expect 100 to 200 cycles discharging to 50%. In the UK, a quality true deep cycle lead battery costs as much as a resionable lithium battery.

I wouldn't worry too much about a too high charge current, it's basically a car starter battery. 15 to 20 amps maximum is perhaps a resionable charge current. Sealed lead acid, if not deep discharged, tend to self limit charge current.

For the moment use the PWM charger and gain experience.

A useful update would be a Victron Smart 75/15 or 100/20,

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Victron SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller 75/15

Victron Smart Solar 75/15 MPPT Charge Controller with Bluetooth built-in. For 12V & 24V systems in motorhomes, caravans, campervans & boats.
www.12voltplanet.co.uk

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Victron SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller 100/20

Victron Smart Solar 100/20 MPPT Charge Controller with Bluetooth built-in. For 12V & 24V systems in motorhomes, caravans, campervans & boats.
www.12voltplanet.co.uk

( I have no connection to the 12 Volt Planet company, its a useful one stop oulet in the UK for components)
Click to expand...

I've ordered the victron 75/15 on amazon prime 👍

I can return the PWM to amazon, so its a win win

Once I'm fully experienced, I'll upgrade more bits and bobs.

Thanks again for the recommendation and information 😀
 
The 15A controller is limited to 15A output, so you'll still have a 14.4V * 15A = 216W limit on the output of your 370W panel.

If you want to fully utilize the panel, you need:

370W/14.4V = 26A, so a 100/30 would get you there. A 100/20 wouldn't lose much given that you're in the UK, and you don't get any sun.
 
sunshine_eggo said:
The 15A controller is limited to 15A output, so you'll still have a 14.4V * 15A = 216W limit on the output of your 370W panel.

If you want to fully utilize the panel, you need:

370W/14.4V = 26A, so a 100/30 would get you there. A 100/20 wouldn't lose much given that you're in the UK, and you don't get any sun.
Click to expand...
I'll test out this Victron setup to see if it meets my requirements. If it doesn't, I'll consider upgrading to the 100/30 model.

This setup is primarily for my summerhouse, or "man cave" as I like to call it! 😄 My main goal is to have a place where I can charge mobile devices, power lighting, and occasionally use small power tools. I already have an inverter, etc.

I'm not sure if the 370W solar panel is overkill for my needs. I chose it because it was incredibly cheap – a real steal from Facebook Marketplace – and it would have been a shame to pass up such a deal! 👀😂

Thanks again!
 
Hi everyone, hope you're doing well!

I've set up my Victron system and want to confirm that the settings are correct before moving forward. Do these settings look right for my setup, or should I make any adjustments?

@sunshine_eggo @mikefitz
Thanks again,

Sam
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240707_141824.jpg
    Screenshot_20240707_141824.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 3
Enable "expert" switch and re-post settings. While you may not use them, those settings are still in effect.

I would set equalization to 14.4 in the event that it's accidentally activated.

Disable temperature compensation. Without an external temperature sensor, behavior can be undesirable.
 
sunshine_eggo said:
Enable "expert" switch and re-post settings. While you may not use them, those settings are still in effect.

I would set equalization to 14.4 in the event that it's accidentally activated.

Disable temperature compensation. Without an external temperature sensor, behavior can be undesirable.
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240707_185205.jpg
    Screenshot_20240707_185205.jpg
    53.8 KB · Views: 2
  • Screenshot_20240707_185212.jpg
    Screenshot_20240707_185212.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 2
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