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Solar Install on a 2014 Travel Trailer- Feeling Stressed and Unsure

theHouserHouse

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Joined
Sep 5, 2020
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Thanks to anyone who can answer our questions and help us know that we are on the right track. We're planning (and purchasing) the components to put 800 watts of solar on our travel trailer for boondocking. We are using Will's the "king of the road" product suggestions for much of it. We have already bought 8 -100 watt compact HQST panels, a GoWise 3000 watt PS 1004 Pure Sinewave Inverter, a 400 amp fuse, a 100 amp fuse, the Bayite monitor, the Tocas 100 Amp Circut Breaker, the double cable entry gland as well as assorted cables and connectors. We still need more wires (I'm not completely sure on what size and how long), the 80 amp Charge Controller, and plan to buy 2 used Valance 136 amp/hr lithium batteries. I've made a detailed drawing on how the stuff will go on the roof (it all actually fits) and where it goes in. I'm pretty sure I can figure out that part easy enough. We have an empty dinette bench to put the batteries, fuses,charge controller, inverter, and monitor in and believe I understand the layout for those too. We're going to run the wires under the floor to the existing electrical panel. I'm not convinced that I fully understand how this is going to connect to our existing electrical system. We have a friend who is studying to be an electrical engineer helping with that part, but she's never worked with solar before.
Some of my questions are:
1) Will we be able to remove the batteries from the tongue and let our solar setup handle all the DC stuff including the tongue jack and stabilizers?
2) There is a possibility that we may connect to shore power electric at a campground at some point so I know we need a transfer switch too. Anyone know a simple explanation of how those connect for my type of setup? Most I've seen involve generators and motorhome alternators. We don't have those in our camper.
3) I have some questions on wires too. We just cancelled an order for 70+ feet of 6 guage copper wire because our friend who is helping said we need that to connect everything together. It seemed like way too much. We already had purchased the 20' solar array to solar charge control cable, 2 sets of battery to battery cables, and a 12" battery to inverter cable. I believe all we have left to get is some another 20' for the solar panels (we need about 40' up there) and about 8' (2-4' lengths) to go from the fuses & inverter to the existing electrical panel. Am I missing something here or do we need that 70' of additional wire?
 

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Looks like you've got panels 3, 4, 5, and 6 shorted out.
 
Only 1 wire is leaving panels 3, 4, 5, & 6. I think it is just a drawing mistake. Pluses and negatives of panel pairs are hooked together--not good.
Hmmm... I will do some more reading. I must have misunderstood the daisy chain style (connecting in series). LoL! My friend who's studying electrical engineering didn't catch this. Thanks.
 
How are you going to mount the panels to the roof? If you're going to use unistrut then the arrangement should work. If you're going to use Z brackets then you need to take into account the room needed between each panel for the brackets as well as the room on each end. You cannot mount panels with no space between them if you're using Z brackets. That almost tripped me up on my install. Fortunately, I had a few inches to play with.
 
How are you going to mount the panels to the roof? If you're going to use unistrut then the arrangement should work. If you're going to use Z brackets then you need to take into account the room needed between each panel for the brackets as well as the room on each end. You cannot mount panels with no space between them if you're using Z brackets. That almost tripped me up on my install. Fortunately, I had a few inches to play with.
We are looking at the different options. But no, we will not be using z-brackets. We want to be able to easily remove or lift the panels for cleaning and roof maintenance.
 
A two-piece Z bracket would work to make removal of the panel possible, without also removing the bracket from the roof. The way the regular Z brackets are setup, once it's down, it's not coming up unless you're willing to remove the Dicor and the screws that go into the roof.

Had I thought about it some more, I would have fabricated my own brackets instead of buying off the shelf.
 
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