Solark 15K lifepo4 off-grid critiques welcome

[Not Aerosmith]

The main power from grid is fed directly into the solark, and then the entire home load of 200A is on the load output. I would expect to see power based on the CT's installed , but as of now the sol-ark is just passing the power through, and not reporting any power information.

Thanks for sharing. I had assumed that if the Sol-Ark fail that it would default to bypass, but now I'm feel more confident in this assumption. I intend to connect my existing solar panels to the Sol-Ark inverter with a selector switch or MC4 connectors at my existing GT inverters. If Sol-Ark should fail or need repairs, I want to be able to switch back to my existing GT inverters. If I decide to add new panels, I can redirect the existing solar panels back to the existing GT inverter or inverters, and connect the new solar panels to the Sol-Ark.

As you have demonstrated the Sol-Ark needs either solar or batteries to operate. My intent is to buy a Sol-Ark 15 and hopefully that is all I need to change a (3) 5 KW Fronius GT system to a hybrid system. It would permit me in the future to add an additional 15 KW of solar panels and batteries.

I don't believe that connecting (3) 5 KW inverters not UL 1741SA to a single generator connection is the best way for Sol-Ark to modulate production during a power outage and match consumption especially without batteries. I believe that Sol-Ark needs and can best modulate production with consumption using solar panels connected through the (3) MPPTs versus one generator connection. The generator connection is multi-purpose for generator, inverters, dump load, well pump, etc. I prefer to save the generator connection for something else and not connect my existing inverters to it.

 

[Not Aerosmith]

Hello.. Ok I am not familiar with the chargery BMS. I will be using a JK BMS

OK , Thanks... the CT I am describing are the ones supplied with the Solark and surround L1 and L2, then have twisted pairs that connect to the solark so it can monitor the current that passes through the ring. There are no batteries, and my understanding is if I installed them pointing the wrong direction I would get negative current instead of positive current measurements. It may be as simple as you say, if nothing except power and load is connected the Solark may just go into bypass mode and not report anything. I would find that a little strange, but I guess I will have to wait until I connect my AC coupled solar to the generator connection, and then see if it comes to life and starts showing current flow.

CPU

The CT connectors are being powered by the Sol-Ark, so if the Sol-Ark is off then the CT connectors are also off. I thought you had a handheld CT tester, which was my confusion. I believe that you are correct when the Sol-Ark powers on, then the CT connectors will also power on.

I do question your wiring diagram. I believe that the house needs to be connected directly to the Sol-Ark 15 and disconnected from the grid. When there is a grid outage, there is no power to the hybrid and the hybrid no longer feeds power to the grid. The point is there is no power to the house from either the grid or the hybrid as shown in your wiring diagram. Again, the house needs to be connected to the hybrid inverter not the grid.

 

[chess-equality]

Hey guys just finished my first install.

4 banks lifepo4 280AH cells

Solark 15K

4 chargery BMS

10700 watts bifacial solar currently. Govt grant for 5000 more in 6 months or so. Wired in anticipation for that. Pictures of array to follow when there is daylight.

I tried to keep it as safe as possible. 300A tclass fuses. TR contactors used in common with chargery and TE contactors with buck converters for power. Nader breakers from signature solar rated at 200A each. 300A bus bars. My main service is not really heavy electrical. Ac mini splits will be the biggest loads. Heat, hot water, dryer are all propane currently. This is a new house build built really efficient to almost passiv standards. Slab on grade. Need to cleanup wiring in the battery cabinet yet but it's in the wee morning right now!

Enjoy and let me know if something looks off. Still learning here and I'm not an electrician!

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What were your considerations for using Chargery BMS compared to the others?

Or better yet, could you please do a review (I'm Feeling Lucky )

 

[12kw_2021]

Thanks for sharing. I had assumed that if the Sol-Ark fail that it would default to bypass, but now I'm feel more confident in this assumption. I intend to connect my existing solar panels to the Sol-Ark inverter with a selector switch or MC4 connectors at my existing GT inverters. If Sol-Ark should fail or need repairs, I want to be able to switch back to my existing GT inverters. If I decide to add new panels, I can redirect the existing solar panels back to the existing GT inverter or inverters, and connect the new solar panels to the Sol-Ark.

As you have demonstrated the Sol-Ark needs either solar or batteries to operate. My intent is to buy a Sol-Ark 15 and hopefully that is all I need to change a (3) 5 KW Fronius GT system to a hybrid system. It would permit me in the future to add an additional 15 KW of solar panels and batteries.

I don't believe that connecting (3) 5 KW inverters not UL 1741SA to a single generator connection is the best way for Sol-Ark to modulate production during a power outage and match consumption especially without batteries. I believe that Sol-Ark needs and can best modulate production with consumption using solar panels connected through the (3) MPPTs versus one generator connection. The generator connection is multi-purpose for generator, inverters, dump load, well pump, etc. I prefer to save the generator connection for something else and not connect my existing inverters to it.

Hello
Just to clarify the Sol-ark as currently connected does operate, the Wifi dongle is active, I can see the Load and Grid voltages if I drill down in the menus of the online connection software. There are no batteries, or solar currently connected, so I think the best description is it is in "passthrough mode" whereby the grid 200A feed is passed through to the load which goes to my main house panel. I had a fault last evening that shut down the house, so I just flipped my transfer switch to supply the main panel with the power direct from the meter, and all was well. I switched back this AM and it has been supplying the house all day. Solark called to discuss my troubles, and installed updated firmware on the unit in the early afternoon, so they are aware of issues with AC voltage too high faults that I am seeing. I am just testing to see if the unit will operate in passthrough mode, and hopeful that the latest firmware they are testing addresses my issues.

Later this week I will be attaching AC coupled Enphase inverters to the Generator input, then later next month will be adding batteries.

Hope this makes it more clear and less confusing. Thanks for the support/communications.

CPU

 

[Not Aerosmith]

Hello
Just to clarify the Sol-ark as currently connected does operate, the Wifi dongle is active, I can see the Load and Grid voltages if I drill down in the menus of the online connection software. There are no batteries, or solar currently connected, so I think the best description is it is in "passthrough mode" whereby the grid 200A feed is passed through to the load which goes to my main house panel. I had a fault last evening that shut down the house, so I just flipped my transfer switch to supply the main panel with the power direct from the meter, and all was well. I switched back this AM and it has been supplying the house all day. Solark called to discuss my troubles, and installed updated firmware on the unit in the early afternoon, so they are aware of issues with AC voltage too high faults that I am seeing. I am just testing to see if the unit will operate in passthrough mode, and hopeful that the latest firmware they are testing addresses my issues.

Later this week I will be attaching AC coupled Enphase inverters to the Generator input, then later next month will be adding batteries.

Hope this makes it more clear and less confusing. Thanks for the support/communications.

CPU

I appreciate the clarification. It sounds like Sol-Ark is providing you support.

This week Sol-Ark call me the following day in respond to an email that I sent them plus follow up with an email the next day. It is also nice that Sol-Ark support is from someone that you can actually understand. Some products provide support using people with a very thick hard to understand accents. I'm very please with Sol-Ark support.

 

[myles]

What were your considerations for using Chargery BMS compared to the others?

Or better yet, could you please do a review (I'm Feeling Lucky )

Chargery was the first one I found good information on, I wanted to use a contactor based BMS that was able to cut large current if need be, as this is mounted in my garage safety was first priorty. IN hind sight, the chargery are OK, i don't like the fact that i can't see them when i'm not at home (not a smart device), but they have worked to cut off charge or discharge current in the event of running a cell too low, or overcharge protection, so that has been great. The current readings seem to drift or uncalibrate over time which is annoying to say the least.

I am a little bit precautious, once a week i scan all the packs and the wiring with my FLIR to make sure nothing is overheating. I physically look in the battery cabinet daily to check health of cells (bloating, smell etc), its just part of my routine to inspect as I did do this myself. In my opinion these batteries are in retirement mode, in the sense that the most the packs discharge is about 30-40 amps each. They take charge from solar around 40-50 amps each.

Also side note: the heat coming from the buck converter is actually a positive in my scenario, as I keep my garage around 12-14 celcius in winter, and the little bit of extra heat from these devices is keeping my batteries around 19 celcius in the cabinet, this is a good place to be and it will also help keep the air a little more dry. The garage has a fresh air fan on a dehumidistat that pulls cool dry air from outside to dry out the garage, so the extra heat in the cabinet is good to have when the floor heat is recovering.