Sun Trekker
- Thread starter Campin
- Start date
I purchased the Thornwave Powermon and the 500A high accuracy shut and what a difference! I got like 200 foot line of sight Bluetooth connection with the compartment door open and can connect 50 feet away, inside my house with the RV out back! It also has true data logging on the module, that you can download and view on their phone app. Also had great tech support from Razvan, the owner and innovator. I would certainly recommend this product to anyone, and Raz tells me a new software for the Bluetooth connected monitoring is about to be released with even more features.
This is my new Thornwave Powermon module and 500A shunt install in our Super-C. Love this thing with its up to 250 foot Bluetooth connection capability and real on module data recording. Tech support has been great, and the price of about $167 for both components, including free shipping is pretty competitive. The module actually has a 60A shunt built in, but for my RV I needed the larger external shunt. I am monitoring both current on my hose batteries and voltage on both my house and chassis batteries. It can control a relay based on several criteria. Raz give great support and I really want to support him as he's an entrepreneuring guy with some great products and new ones on the drawing board that will help us all. Check out his 100A Solid State Switch if you need a disconnect integral to the Powermon or other shunt device with a relay driver.
Who was your cell source? How long to get them?
Selina @ Xuba Electronic. I received Grade A cells in 6 weeks, excellent service!
And when you ask Selina about batteries, say Rich at diysolarforum said hi : )
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Man, that's great! I'd like to build a 400AH 12V system for our Super-C. A little overkill given we'll only have 840W of solar, but extra storage gives you options. Thinking about just purchasing two of the SOK units.
Hi mspenc45, I’ve been AWOL consumed by other projects but now back to Solar. ...working on (and learning about) a wire schematic and will post. Maybe you (or anybody) can critique and offer opinions, suggestions. I hope to get this system online soon! Thnx a lot, Rich
I’m preparing to make busbars from .125" x .625" 110 copper bar and read about “slotting the hole” for better contact. I couldn’t find details using the search engine. Is this common practice and how do you cut lines in the copper (hacksaw) and at what depth?
...never mind, i found the answer to my question. In the meantime ordered hardware to bottom balance my battery. And you may ask why bottom balance? Because I read it’s preferred if running the cells without a BMS.
I mentioned about replacing appliances that don’t meet solar standards (amp hogs); the factory microwave and AC window unit. Now I have an Instant Pot and efficient 12.1 seer window unit...they use half the amps (cheap conversion). A must in the middle of nowhere
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Can someone elaborate on connecting a 24-12 step down converter to my RV DC load panel? Thnx!
I think this will work: The ac/dc converter yellow pos output wire (12v) connects to a 40 amp dc fuse aka reverse battery protection fuse. The 30 amp fuse was for the FLA house battery (removed). I’d like to replace the 30 amp fuse with the 40 and connect the 24-12 step down converter there. This will power the 12vdc panel and disconnect the ac/dc converter.
I think this will work: The ac/dc converter yellow pos output wire (12v) connects to a 40 amp dc fuse aka reverse battery protection fuse. The 30 amp fuse was for the FLA house battery (removed). I’d like to replace the 30 amp fuse with the 40 and connect the 24-12 step down converter there. This will power the 12vdc panel and disconnect the ac/dc converter.
