I think I bought it about the same time I ordered my batteries.
Nice.
I'd appreciate if you could take me through the steps you mentioned above. I'm a willing student.
Sure.
Have you made quality 10 awg leads for your bench psu?
Should be ring terminals on both ends and 10 awg wire.
Step 1. make some 10 awg leads for the capacity tester.
Put ring 1/4"(6mm) terminals on the battery side and probably #10 on the capacity tester side.
The crimp colour code is yellow for 12 to 10 awg.
I like Gardner bender, they are available online and at the big orange store.
Do you have a crimper?
Step 1. learn how to use the capacity tester.
You want low voltage disconnect set to 2.5 volts
The battery voltage won't actually get to 2.5 volts but we don't care as long as what we do is consistent across all cells.
I don't have a power supply or cell to figure out how to use mine so I hope you can do that part yourself.
If not I will have to whip something up.
The most current you should pull through the tester and leads is 20 amps.
20 amps @ 3.65 volts = 73 watts
20 amps @ 2.5 volts = 50 watts
In order to dissipate that heat you need the power brick attached to make sure the fan runs.
Even if the fan can run off the device under test we don't want to do that in case it messes with the results.
Step 2. Charge the cell full to 3.65 volts @ 10 amps using the bench psu.
Terminate the charge when the tail current is less than 1 amp.
Don't leave the charger connected for too long.
Less than a day would be acceptable.
Less than an hour would be excellent.
Step 3. Zero the amp hours and watt hours counters on the capicity tester.
Discharge the cell until it disconnects at what it thinks is 2.5 volts.
The cell won't actually get to 2.5 volts but that is fine.
Record the results.
Step 4. Recharge the cell to 3.0 volts @ 10 amps use the bench psu.
You can stop when the current drops to less than 3 amps.
Step 5. Move to the next cell and repeat the process starting at step 2.
@sunshine_eggo if you see a hitch in my process please tag in.