The AC>DC converter in my 32' RV just stopped working and I need to replace it with something capable of adding solar to the mix in the near future...

[Badgermonkey]

So for now could I get by with:

Amazon.com

and

Amazon.com

?

Currently:

 

[12VoltInstalls]

The battery is small, and expensive for the capacity imho

The charger features “desulfator” which is for lead acid. I’ve never heard of desulfating LiFePo batteries.

This AIO won’t solve your big amp hour and load needs. However, it WILL charge your battery (batteries) with shorepower or solar at a decent rate. And it’s inexpensive for a known dependable lower-priced product plus very easy to install and program. And it will supply basic 120V up to 1000W which is 8-9 amps. So no Aircon or big microwave.

I’d have to go back and read and ask questions of you to calculate it out, but this AIO would do the same as above but is capable of the big watts you mentioned. And again, solves the whole shebang in one box.

 

[Badgermonkey]

Could I switch the charger to 240v and plug it into the 30A shore outlet as I no longer use the built-in A/C and heater so whatever power was diverted to those circuits wasn't available before.

What chemistry are these cells?

Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) in 2012 that's local; let's just shelve that for now.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Could I switch the charger to 240v and plug it into the 30A shore outlet

Are you not in the US?!

 

[camelCase]

30A shore power, at least the kind that you normally would find at a campground for shore power is 120v. The 50a circuits are 240v, but are split into two parallel 120v circuits in the RV.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

30A is a lot of power if you don’t need aircon or big appliances. And the AIO would just charge the batteries, handle solar input, and make 120VAC out of 12VDC when called for. Your limit is the batteries

 

[Badgermonkey]

The battery is small, and expensive for the capacity imho

The charger features “desulfator” which is for lead acid. I’ve never heard of desulfating LiFePo batteries.

This AIO won’t solve your big amp hour and load needs. However, it WILL charge your battery (batteries) with shorepower or solar at a decent rate. And it’s inexpensive for a known dependable lower-priced product plus very easy to install and program. And it will supply basic 120V up to 1000W which is 8-9 amps. So no Aircon or big microwave.

I’d have to go back and read and ask questions of you to calculate it out, but this AIO would do the same as above but is capable of the big watts you mentioned. And again, solves the whole shebang in one box.

Wholly Megabux Batman! Okay, you folks have been o so very helpful; let us take that not-so-unlikely tangent that I'm mentally awkward and let me know what any of you would do in my situation with $500 and 48 hours.
*My battery is down from 3 days of fridge and lights to about 8-10 hours, when I hooked a fairly large jump-starter pack to it, it sucked it up in about 10 minutes...

 

[time2roll]

Wholly Megabux Batman! Okay, you folks have been o so very helpful; let us take that not-so-unlikely tangent that I'm mentally awkward and let me know what any of you would do in my situation with $500 and 48 hours.
*My battery is down from 3 days of fridge and lights to about 8-10 hours, when I hooked a fairly large jump-starter pack to it, it sucked it up in about 10 minutes...

Post 1 was talking 50 kWh per day. Find a place to stay plugged into utility power. Replace the failed converter and get on with the day.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

what any of you would do in my situation with $500 and 48 hours.

Short term instant solution: walmartha Schumaker battery charger (or auto parts store) with lithium profile switch.

And go buy the biggest watts247 unit that matches your battery bank volts which I think is 12V which means the 1012LV-MK and call him for overnight shipping.

You can replace your converter sure. And have a new version with the same limitations as before.
No way I’d replace the converter. Ymmv

 

[Badgermonkey]

Wholly Megabux Batman! Okay, you folks have been o so very helpful; let us take that not-so-unlikely tangent that I'm mentally awkward and let me know what any of you would do in my situation with $500 and 48 hours.
*My battery is down from 3 days of fridge and lights to about 8-10 hours, when I hooked a fairly large jump-starter pack to it, it sucked it up in about 10 minutes...

The battery is small, and expensive for the capacity IMHO - It seemed to be a decent value, what would you recommend as a better value for < $300?

It would take about $200 to replace or rebuild my obsolete unit, but all I really need is a strong battery or two and something to turn shore into DC
and I can add a separate solar system later.

Hang on now, your standard AC circuit in the US is 15A/120v/1800w; a 30A plug for an RV is two of those hot lines to double-down on it which gets you that sweet 240v and the 50A that the Class A RV's use are two 240 legs. I've seen a splitter that breaks a 50A into a 30A and two 15A circuits; seems legit. Because I don't understand as much as I know about electricity it works because when you combine them you don't get 3600w, you get 6000w

Short term instant solution: walmartha Schumaker battery charger (or auto parts store) with lithium profile switch.

And go buy the biggest watts247 unit that matches your battery bank volts which I think is 12V which means the 1012LV-MK and call him for overnight shipping.

You can replace your converter sure. And have a new version with the same limitations as before.
No way I’d replace the converter. Ymmv

This is winner! Off to get a charger.

Any thoughts on this: https://inventuspower.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IP_UserGuide_U1_V4.pdf

 

[time2roll]

Hang on now, your standard AC circuit in the US is 15A/120v/1800w; a 30A plug for an RV is two of those hot lines to double-down on it which gets you that sweet 240v and the 50A that the Class A RV's use are two 240 legs. I've seen a splitter that breaks a 50A into a 30A and two 15A circuits; seems legit. Because I don't understand as much as I know about electricity it works because when you combine them you don't get 3600w, you get 6000w

Air conditioner in an RV generally runs on 120v 20 amp branch circuit.

30 amp RV service in the US uses a NEMA 30-TT connector and is 30 amps of 120v for 3600 watts.

50 amp RV uses NEMA 14-50 connector for 50 amp 240/120 service for 12,000 watts available. If a splitter is used that is 6000w per side but a 30 amp RV will have a main breaker of 30 amps and limit input to 3600 watts. Generally nothing in an RV runs on 240 volts.

https://www.myrv.us/electric/

 

[time2roll]

You can replace your converter sure. And have a new version with the same limitations as before.
No way I’d replace the converter. Ymmv

Standard converter needs no battery when plugged in. Any small automotive battery can be used while in transit or short time between plugging in. Not sure what the limitations are that a shumacher would be better at. The link I gave even had a voltage adjustment if something is critical.

Going off-grid will take a bit more planning and a bit more than $500. I recommend getting back to OEM stock until a proper off-grid system can be installed. And some realistic expectations on the use of the air conditioner.

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Not sure what the limitations are that a shumacher would be better at.

I did not say it was better or even a good idea. I simply answered the instant solution questions as stated. Horses and water.

Going off-grid will take a bit more planning and a bit more than $500.

That was what I said was better

If it was me I’d buy that 12V 1012LV-MK in a heartbeat and be back in business. And $400 for as many watts as I could get and still get more of later. Add two $350 LiFePo from amyzon and have 200Ah right now for ~$1600

 

[Badgermonkey]

50 amp RV uses NEMA 14-50 connector for 50 amp 240/120 service for 12,000 watts available. If a splitter is used that is 6000w per side but a 30 amp RV will have a main breaker of 30 amps and limit input to 3600 watts. Generally nothing in an RV runs on 240 volts.

This is what I was missing!

 

[Badgermonkey]

These are the only ready-to-go batteries in my area:

Valence RT series U1-12RJ Rechargeable 12V battery Module

Greentec Auto| 40-80 Ah Li-ion 12V battery | Ideal for solar power storage and DIY solar projects | Golf cart battery replacement | golf cart compatible

www.greentecauto.com

I have to buy 8 at a time ($3210.06 including tax). I'm not mad; I watched WIll's vids on these and got me a good ol' battery boner for'm but geez man... anyone in the KC MO area wants to buy one for $450? I should let go of 4 so I can afford that other thing, the https://watts247.com/product/pip101...-up-to-9kw-single-split-and-3-phase-optional/

So other than "OWww! my wallet", where's the flaw?

Those batteries, that thing-a-ma-jig, and these hoo-hoo-dillies: https://store.santansolar.com/product/santan-solar-t-series-240w-cracked-vinyl-solar-panel-lot20/
?