The AC>DC converter in my 32' RV just stopped working and I need to replace it with something capable of adding solar to the mix in the near future...

[Badgermonkey]

Max energy use (if I could manage 44kWh I'd be okay):
My old panel is a Series 7300 Power Plus Control:




With the AC breakers on and shore power AC stuff works, with jumper cables connected to the battery the DC stuff works (no blown fuses), shore power isn't converting to DC and the battery isn't charging. I've been studying up on this stuff for a while but this isn't how I planned to get into it and have no idea what I need to get to replace this thing and allow me to add enough solar and batteries to meet all my electric needs (~50kWh per day) in the near future.

I was thinking this: https://store.santansolar.com/product/santan-solar-t-series-240w-cracked-vinyl-solar-panel-lot20/
And 5 of these are exactly 44kWh:

Each bank of 5 consists of 19 cells (25 Ah) each (95 total and 8.8 kWh). Battery voltage is 351.5 V (95 times 3.7 V - But how do I make that into 12v?

 

[John Frum]

That looks like a battery pack out of an electric vehicle.
Those are usually one of the "explody" lithium chemistries.
I urge you to look at LFP=Lithium Iron Phosphate.
Its a much safer option.

 

[time2roll]

Need a replacement converter is all.

https://www.bestconverter.com/PD4635V-35-Amp-Converter-Upgrade

Parallax is a bit obsolete.

Solar goes direct to the battery through a separate controller.

 

[MisterSandals]

Need a replacement converter is all.

https://www.bestconverter.com/PD4635V-35-Amp-Converter-Upgrade

I installed one of these and i was VERY happy it was nearly a wire for wire swap, all the same form factor too.

Installing solar panels to solar charge controller to battery(s) as a separate system is pretty easy too.

I urge you to look at LFP=Lithium Iron Phosphate.

Definitely. There are several drop in solutions like Battleborn, SOK and Chins. Making a battery from cells is a significant, many months learning process.

 

[circus]

shore power isn't converting to DC and the battery isn't charging.

Sounds like when my old Schumacher battery charger died. 30 years ago I looked at the biggest heat sink and replaced a couple blown $1 diodes. Still works like new (crappy).

 

[Badgermonkey]

That looks like a battery pack out of an electric vehicle.
Those are usually one of the "explody" lithium chemistries.
I urge you to look at LFP=Lithium Iron Phosphate.
Its a much safer option.

The Toyota Prius Prime uses five lithium-ion battery stacks.
I gave too much information, the question is, "what AC>DC converter should I get now that will let me do something like that later?".

 

[John Frum]

The Toyota Prius Prime uses five lithium-ion battery stacks.

Not sure why five is significant.
Those batteries are susceptible to thermal runaway.
That means venting with fire.

I gave too much information, the question is, "what AC>DC converter should I get now that will let me do something like that later?".

Suggest you get an inverter/charger instead.

An inverter/charger is an inverter, ac2dc charger and automatic transfer switch.
The AC/DC converters all kind of suck and won't likely be anywhere near flexible enough to charge those Prius cells.

 

[circus]

Battery voltage is 351.5 V (95 times 3.7 V - But how do I make that into 12v?

Stretching the envelope is admirable but dangerous. If you ever plan to sell, buyers won't appreciate your cleverness. Insurance will tell you to get lost. Specially if you have a claim.

 

[MisterSandals]

I gave too much information, the question is, "what AC>DC converter should I get now that will let me do something like that later?".

Agreeing with smoothJoey in that RV inverter chargers barely (and rarely) handle LiFePO4 batteries in a suitable manner. I am running my pre-lithium PD4645 because the new lithium aware equivalent holds the voltage at 14.6V which is too high. I am not aware of anything that could come close to properly handling Prius batteries. And being the explody type rules out even considering them.

Quite a bit of my solar charging is done with a separate Victron 100/30 SCC tucked into my battery compartment under my Sprinter Winnie View steps. Gained a little room by quadrupling my storage from 2x Group (27?) batteries to 8x 3.2V 206Ah cells.

 

[Badgermonkey]

I installed one of these and i was VERY happy it was nearly a wire for wire swap, all the same form factor too.

Installing solar panels to solar charge controller to battery(s) as a separate system is pretty easy too.


Definitely. There are several drop in solutions like Battleborn, SOK and Chins. Making a battery from cells is a significant, many months learning process.

Battleborn=100Ah for $1000, this is 220Ah for $975.

Need a replacement converter is all.

https://www.bestconverter.com/PD4635V-35-Amp-Converter-Upgrade

Parallax is a bit obsolete.

Solar goes direct to the battery through a separate controller.

Looking into that now.

 

[Badgermonkey]

Stretching the envelope is admirable but dangerous. If you ever plan to sell, buyers won't appreciate your cleverness. Insurance will tell you to get lost. Specially if you have a claim.

Call me Badger "Danger" Monkey... There will be no selling this, it's been modded up enough and I only paid $5000 for it to start with, it was like new though.

 

[Badgermonkey]

Sounds like when my old Schumacher battery charger died. 30 years ago I looked at the biggest heat sink and replaced a couple blown $1 diodes. Still works like new (crappy).

I have a hot air rework/component level board repair station, may as well look into that too!

 

[MisterSandals]

I have a hot air rework/component level board repair station, may as well look into that too!

So you didn't say you have skills...

@Ampster has a lot of experience with electric car cells/batteries. Maybe he can be conjured...

 

[Ampster]

@Ampster has a lot of experience with electric car cells/batteries. Maybe he can be conjured...

I am not sure what the question is but my experience is limited to Nissan Leaf cells. I converted a VW to electric but it ran off LFPs.

 

[MisterSandals]

I am not sure what the question is but my experience is limited to Nissan Leaf cells

Do you know of any RV inverter converters that would work with Prius batteries? Or have any comments or advice on the use of these in an RV?

 

[John Frum]

Call me Badger "Danger" Monkey... There will be no selling this, it's been modded up enough and I only paid $5000 for it to start with, it was like new though.

What chemistry are these cells?

 

[12VoltInstalls]

Sometimes the shortest route to a solution of a problem IS the correct route to take.

I’d dump the converter- you would need to reverse-engineer the wiring in that salvage battery anyways, and likely not ever find a manufactured product to charge them without emulating the redesigned lower-voltage battery.

The SOKs are reasonably priced and should be able to achieve your Ah requirements fine.

 

[Ampster]

What chemistry are these cells?

The old Prius batteries were an unusual chemistry that I was not familiar with.

 

[Badgermonkey]

So you didn't say you have skills...

@Ampster has a lot of experience with electric car cells/batteries. Maybe he can be conjured...

If a grown-ass man can't blow himself up... Well, I just don't know what this country is coming to!

 

[MisterSandals]

If a grown-ass man can't blow himself up... Well, I just don't know what this country is coming to!

I often underestimate the resolve of people who see free electrical advice online!