diy solar

diy solar

The classic 400 watt with dcc50s and lipo4 batts or solar generator

Redmike

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2022
Messages
18
Trying to decide component's (classic 400 watt) with a renogy dcc50s or get a solar generator.
Is there a solar generator that allows the options of the dcc50s and an inverter. As well as cost/replacement options? Are we better with components?
Thanks
 
The DCC50S has limitations.

No more than 25V PV. Period. Must allow for cold temperature voltage effects, so more of a 22Voc practical limit.

If both power sources are available, each is limited to 25A max.

I personally prefer a separate MPPT and separate DC-DC charger.
 
The DCC50S has limitations.

No more than 25V PV. Period. Must allow for cold temperature voltage effects, so more of a 22Voc practical limit.

If both power sources are available, each is limited to 25A max.

I personally prefer a separate MPPT and separate DC-DC charger.
That's a good idea.
 
That's a good idea. So both dc to dc and mpt would come off solar panels. Dc to dc would go to start battery and mppt would go to my lipo4s and take inverter and dc panel off my lipo4s? And fuse all correctly.
 
For a dc to dc converter. Feeding a 12v 800cca battery. How do I calculate size of dc to dc
 
How do I calculate size of dc to dc
Subject to battery pack size, depends on your vehicle alternator and how much you wish to spend. Typical single units are In the range 20 to 120 amps.
Victron 30 amps, Renogy 20 to 60 amps, Sterling Power, 25 to 120 amps, Votronic, (German company), 30 to 90 amps, Ctek 250S, 20 amps, Kisae 30 to 50 amps, Power Queen 40 amps ( sold under other brands), Eco Worthy 20 to 40 amps, Li Time 40 amps.
Some of these units also have built in MPPT controller .
Regarding the 800 cca battery is this the vehicle battery or storage battery you wish to charge?
 
Last edited:
Subject to battery pack size, depends on your vehicle alternator and how much you wish to spend. Typical single units are In the range 20 to 120 amps.
Victron 30 amps, Renogy 20 to 60 amps, Sterling Power, 25 to 120 amps, Votronic, (German company), 30 to 90 amps, Ctek 250S, 20 amps, Kisae 30 to 50 amps, Power Queen 40 amps ( sold under other brands).
Some of these units also have built in MPPT controller .
Regarding the 800 cca battery is this the vehicle battery or storage battery you wish to charge?
Its a start battery 12 volt agm.
 
Its a start battery 12 volt agm.
Perhaps a misunderstanding here, the DC to DC chargers are intended to charge a house battery from the vehicle battery whilst the engine is running. More details of your proposed system would be useful. Are you intending to build the equivalent of a solar generator?
 
Perhaps a misunderstanding here, the DC to DC chargers are intended to charge a house battery from the vehicle battery whilst the engine is running. More details of your proposed system would be useful. Are you intending to build the equivalent of a solar generator?
Marine sailboat. 2 -200watt solar to 1 40 amp mppt solar charge controller to 2 -100 ah lipo2 in parrell. I'm looking to charge/top off start batt agm batt with solar and top off lipo4 Bank with altenator (when needed). I was going to use renogy dcc50s until i found out the 25 max volts.
 
Marine sailboat
Reliability is a high priority, suggest a Victron Smart Solar controller, a 100/ 30, 100/50, or150/35, although a 100/30 would be enough to avoid running at near full capacity perhaps the 100/50 with the panels in series or parallel.
Alternator to house battery, suggest a Victron Orion tri smart 12 12 30. This will load your alternator at about 35 amps, I suspect you have a small power unit 30 to 50 HP so the alternator won't be too heavily loaded.
Maintaining the starter AGM should not normally be needed, however if this is a requirement then a DC to DC converter input from the house battery, output starter battery, manually switch on for say 24 hours. Set the output to 13.8 volts. Suggest Victron 12 12 9 amp.
There are other techniques to provide a maintaining charge to the starter battery, the simple technique of connecting the house and starter battery in parallel with a manually activated switch for a number of hours is one method. If you have an inverter providing AC then a small AC charger could maintain the starter battery.

Your earlier post asked about 48 volt batteries, propulsion, and 3000 watt inverter. How does this interface to the system under discussion?

Mike
 
Reliability is a high priority, suggest a Victron Smart Solar controller, a 100/ 30, 100/50, or150/35, although a 100/30 would be enough to avoid running at near full capacity perhaps the 100/50 with the panels in series or parallel.
Alternator to house battery, suggest a Victron Orion tri smart 12 12 30. This will load your alternator at about 35 amps, I suspect you have a small power unit 30 to 50 HP so the alternator won't be too heavily loaded.
Maintaining the starter AGM should not normally be needed, however if this is a requirement then a DC to DC converter input from the house battery, output starter battery, manually switch on for say 24 hours. Set the output to 13.8 volts. Suggest Victron 12 12 9 amp.
There are other techniques to provide a maintaining charge to the starter battery, the simple technique of connecting the house and starter battery in parallel with a manually activated switch for a number of hours is one method. If you have an inverter providing AC then a small AC charger could maintain the starter battery.

Your earlier post asked about 48 volt batteries, propulsion, and 3000 watt inverter. How does this interface to the system under discussion?

Mike

My alternator puts out 40 amps.More that enough with the ACR now it has kept both batteries topped off. I am removing that. I like the small AC battery charger suggestion that works for me. Those are great suggestions I thank you very much.
As for the 48vdc has nothing to do with this project.
Thank you Mike
 
No idea of quality but this is one guys answer to your setup...
 
Ok I can put a dc to dc charger on. This would keep my house/ lip04 bank charged. In place of the dc to dc. Would it be worth putting a
MPPT for PV to battery.

DC-DC for Chassis DC system to Coach battery.

You do not get PV topping off starter in this case.
Ok that's see if I'm overdoing this. In place of the dc to dc charger. If I placed a a dccs30s without a solar input. This would give a way to top of start and house battery. Would that be over kill or smart giving me a spare if my solar charger died? THANK YOU
 
Back
Top