I'm using a couple of 100ah LFP batteries I built 2 years ago to power a small DC fridge. Once the fridge is at temperature, the draw on the batteries is very low, meaning under 5 amps worth of draw. I know from prior experience that the Daly BMS on these batteries doesn't "wake up" for less than 5 amps. What I mean by that is if the BMS is inactive, it takes 5 amps or more to register in the app on my phone.
The problem I'm having, if you can call it that, is one of these batteries will run the fridge for 10-12 days, but the "SmartBMS" app on my phone shows the battery is still at 100%, even when the BMS cuts off due to low (2.5v) cell voltage. When that happens I switch to the other battery and connect the discharged battery to a solar charge controller and bring back up to 14.4 volts. I can't rely on the app to tell me what the SOC is because it basically is showing 99% throughout this entire process. Short of getting a decent shunt or hall effect sensor, is there anything I can do to get a better reading on these batteries?
The problem I'm having, if you can call it that, is one of these batteries will run the fridge for 10-12 days, but the "SmartBMS" app on my phone shows the battery is still at 100%, even when the BMS cuts off due to low (2.5v) cell voltage. When that happens I switch to the other battery and connect the discharged battery to a solar charge controller and bring back up to 14.4 volts. I can't rely on the app to tell me what the SOC is because it basically is showing 99% throughout this entire process. Short of getting a decent shunt or hall effect sensor, is there anything I can do to get a better reading on these batteries?