diy solar

diy solar

Tow behind solar trailer

Very interested in pictures. I have a similar plan in my head. Open frame tilting trailer, with "Transformer's" type framing.
To deploy 6kw worth of panels, once on site.
Great idea! Thanks for the pics, ideas & lead!

I have plans to use or build an ultralite Al trailer with an extension towing arm and fold-out & tilting panels for onsite charging. I thought of using flexible panels mounted on corrugated Al sheets with wind tie downs. When travelling, all panels except the top ones would be out of the wind. I'm trying to keep the weight, rolling resistance, and wind drag as low as possible. I'm thinking of building an enclosing box that has very low wind resistance. The extension tow arm should allow about 6m of panels to be exposed while towing but when garaging, or parking in cities, it can be shortened to a 3m long trailer. The reason for the lightness etc is I plan to convert a Renault Captur to a micro E RV & would like to be able to extend the range without the extra cost and weight of more batteries. I will have to be very careful about springing the trailer so the Australian roads don't destroy the panels, supports etc

realezy-alu-kayak-trailer.jpg
 
Great idea! Thanks for the pics, ideas & lead!

I have plans to use or build an ultralite Al trailer with an extension towing arm and fold-out & tilting panels for onsite charging. I thought of using flexible panels mounted on corrugated Al sheets with wind tie downs. When travelling, all panels except the top ones would be out of the wind. I'm trying to keep the weight, rolling resistance, and wind drag as low as possible. I'm thinking of building an enclosing box that has very low wind resistance. The extension tow arm should allow about 6m of panels to be exposed while towing but when garaging, or parking in cities, it can be shortened to a 3m long trailer. The reason for the lightness etc is I plan to convert a Renault Captur to a micro E RV & would like to be able to extend the range without the extra cost and weight of more batteries. I will have to be very careful about springing the trailer so the Australian roads don't destroy the panels, supports etc

View attachment 93081
I would rather use rigid panels as more efficient than flexible and also longer lasting.
You could lay the panels on their sides at an angle, hinged on a center beam with two panels flat on the center support. Also two panels also laying on sides on opposite side with folding hinges like on my setup.
This will make for a lower towing profile.
 
I have mounted a 50amp shorepower box on the trailer but not sure how to run the lines from the MPPSolar to the outlet.
A 4-wire connection.
50 amp 4 wire , should be = 1 ground wire ( green ) 1- 120 volt hot ( black ) 1-120 volt hot ( red ) , 1- neutral wire( white ) . not sure what your asking . should be the output on your MPPsolar inverter. now if it's a 120-volt only model and not 220 . If you still want your 220 outlets your going to need to get a autoformer or switch inverters or step down to a 30 amp, 120 volt outlet ( if amp you will want 6/3 wire )
 
Great idea! Thanks for the pics, ideas & lead!

I have plans to use or build an ultralite Al trailer with an extension towing arm and fold-out & tilting panels for onsite charging. I thought of using flexible panels mounted on corrugated Al sheets with wind tie downs. When travelling, all panels except the top ones would be out of the wind. I'm trying to keep the weight, rolling resistance, and wind drag as low as possible. I'm thinking of building an enclosing box that has very low wind resistance. The extension tow arm should allow about 6m of panels to be exposed while towing but when garaging, or parking in cities, it can be shortened to a 3m long trailer. The reason for the lightness etc is I plan to convert a Renault Captur to a micro E RV & would like to be able to extend the range without the extra cost and weight of more batteries. I will have to be very careful about springing the trailer so the Australian roads don't destroy the panels, supports etc

View attachment 93081
That looks like a good idea. If you can lay the panels on their side hinged to a centre box( for batteries and inverter) with panel(s) flat on top of box, then you will have a lower profile.
My trailer is 8ft long X 5ft wide so had to stand them up to be able to mount all six panels.
My trailer also has a 70 lb mppt inverter and 200 lbs of batteries, besides a year's supply of non perishable foods, jerky etc...
Good luck with yours!
 
50 amp 4 wire , should be = 1 ground wire ( green ) 1- 120 volt hot ( black ) 1-120 volt hot ( red ) , 1- neutral wire( white ) . not sure what your asking . should be the output on your MPPsolar inverter. now if it's a 120-volt only model and not 220 . If you still want your 220 outlets your going to need to get a autoformer or switch inverters or step down to a 30 amp, 120 volt outlet ( if amp you will want 6/3 wire )
Thanks for the input.
I have mounted a 50amp shore plug on back of trailer.
Hooked up to RV and ran a dehydrator for 20 hours, fridge( ac/dc only), microwave for 5 minutes. Only off the four 200ah Lifepo4 batteries with no panels deployed. Worked great.
But next day, went hiking for 6 hours, came back and inverter was off with continuous beep. Could only stop by battery disconnect.
Checked four batteries voltage...35.7volts!
One battery was 0.1v and another was 11.2v.
The two others were just above 12v.
Obvious BMS malfunction.
Checked on the Facebook SOK site and this appears to be a common occurrence!
Bought the complete system from
www.shopsolarkits.com
Their after sales service is excellent.
Suggested they either replace the batteries or the BMS in two of the batteries.
Will have to research if easy to replace BMS myself....
 
Thanks for the input.
I have mounted a 50amp shore plug on back of trailer.
Hooked up to RV and ran a dehydrator for 20 hours, fridge( ac/dc only), microwave for 5 minutes. Only off the four 200ah Lifepo4 batteries with no panels deployed. Worked great.
But next day, went hiking for 6 hours, came back and inverter was off with continuous beep. Could only stop by battery disconnect.
Checked four batteries voltage...35.7volts!
One battery was 0.1v and another was 11.2v.
The two others were just above 12v.
Obvious BMS malfunction.
Checked on the Facebook SOK site and this appears to be a common occurrence!
Bought the complete system from
www.shopsolarkits.com
Their after sales service is excellent.
Suggested they either replace the batteries or the BMS in two of the batteries.
Will have to research if easy to replace BMS myself....
Dont panic yet, when some liPo battery disconnect you will still see like 5 volts but they are at 10 volts most of the time , the BMS lets 5 volts read out for what ever reason. put a another 12 volt battery on it to wake it up ( force it back up above 10 volts ) then put your normal charge on it and charge it up
 
Dont panic yet, when some liPo battery disconnect you will still see like 5 volts but they are at 10 volts most of the time , the BMS lets 5 volts read out for what ever reason. put a another 12 volt battery on it to wake it up ( force it back up above 10 volts ) then put your normal charge on it and charge it up
Thanks for input.
I was concerned that the 6 x 200w panels deployed were not maintaing the voltage as well.
 
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