USB Charging Port Install

[chrisski]

Not a solar stall directly, but I was having trouble figuring and "aesthetic" installation of a USB port on a short ceiling. I'd searched for weeks before deciding.

Have been wanting to install a USB charging port in the kids bunk, and I've decided to tap into the light to avoid tearing a wall up to run another line from the battery. I did not see a "Gang Box" for a single USB charging socket. I looked far and wide for cases, but I could not find one. After weeks of looking, I found a single cable Gland for roof entry that the measurements fit. I had been close to using polymorph plastic to build my own.

Here is the end product I will be installing in the RV bunk ceiling tomorrow.


Here's some other pics of the pieces:
<--Single Entry Cable Gland<--The Charge Socket and Gland Trimmed
<--A Couple pics of the trimming
<--Another pic.

 

[chrisski]

Picture of the Port Installed in the bunk:



One thing I do now before I take on a project is to not do anything I can't fix myself or pay someone to fix. My first place I tried installing the port was a bit far away and there was a beam I could not get around. That caused me to move the next hole closer to the light I was tapping into. So, next time I try something like this, I need to be sure that I can run the wire to where I want before drilling.


Nothing a little Spackling compound did not fix.

 

[Boondock Saint]

I like it! But I really wish you'd post larger pics from now on :D

And URLs.

 

[chrisski]

And URLs

Not sure what a URL is.

For the pics, I’m still learning. The originals have geotagging on them, and not sure how to remove that except to copy a screenshot. That’s like taking a pic of a pic to remove the geotagging.

 

[MrNatural22]

I like it! But I really wish you'd post larger pics from now on :D

And URLs.

Here’s the single entry gland for that very cool idea?
the only other thing I would add would be a on/off power switch. ?

 

[Boondock Saint]

URL = "LINK to stuff . . . "

I have multiple of the 5v dual charger units that you used, (and I never got around to after several years) but I wasn't sure about the cable gland. Thx for that.

 

[chrisski]

URL = "LINK to stuff . . . "

Well of course. I guess I had not had my energy drink. For some reason I was thinking a URL to my pictures. A specific parts list should be included in all these posts.

The Charger: PD Type C USB Car Charger Socket and QC 3.0 Quick Charger 12V/24V Car Power Outlet Waterproof Socket 64W Dual USB Charger Socket Power Delivery 36W for Motorcycle Marine Boat RV ATV (Type C+ QC3.0(G)):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NV9D61...abc_6E8TQAAF7RAVN1CFKC58?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The cable gland: Wadoy Rv Solar Cable Entry Gland Fits All Cable Types 2Mm² to 6Mm² on Rv, Campervan, Boat Project-Weatherproof ABS Solar Single Cable Entry Gland: Wadoy Rv Solar Cable Entry Gland Fits All Cable Types 2Mm² to 6Mm² on Rv, Campervan, Boat Project-Weatherproof ABS Solar Single Cable Entry Gland https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJ69N1...abc_SJ7KCHBMV9NWQVYB5QQR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

A bit of work with the Dremel to make it fit. The charger was also too tight a fit inside the case to put the ring on the back to secure it, but I used some super glue, and it actually worked. Removing becomes an issue if the internal 10 amp fuse ever blows on the charging port.

This quick charge device is pretty decent for 12 volt work. I think it starts out 5 volts at 2 amps, but goes up to 12 volts at 1 amp. If hooked to a 24 volts system, they will charge at 32 watts per USB port, 64 watts total. Someone commented a charger that size would be good at 64 watts for something quick, but for continued charge he'd want a heat sink on the back.

the only other thing I would add would be a on/off power switch. ?

I thought about getting an on/off switch and using the double cable gland entry

Amazon.com

I did not have real good measurements on that, at least not enough to spend $10 on and hoping it would fit both the charger and switch.

As it turns out, all the Quick Charge / USB-C chargers I found were lit, so someone in the bunk may complain about the light. If that's the case, I May swap it out for the double cable gland above and find a switch at the parts store that works.

 

[SolarShed]

Hi, I was thinking the same thing as I have a USB powered device that requires power 24/7, and I don't necessarily want to have my Inverter on 24/7 so I thought I purchase this and connect directly to my 12V battery terminals.



From Amazon:

Amazon.ca

It comes with a fuse and fuse holder, 10A.

The only thing is, that I will be connecting it directly to the battery terminals of my 12V 100 ah Lithium battery (Renogy Smart with BMS). Any of you see a problem with this arrangement? Its fused and all so that helps. I'm always a bit apprehensive when something is connected directly to the battery terminals, but it does have a fuse.

Thanks

 

[curiouscarbon]

Dear @SolarShed,

If your Renogy Lithium battery has a BMS inside, then it should internally turn off the MOSFET Disconnect when the voltage gets too low after lots of delivering energy via USB.

It should be ok. When the battery gets low, the BMS will disconnect the USB charger.

I'm just guessing though, be sure to double check the Renogy Manual

 

[chrisski]

The only thing is, that I will be connecting it directly to the battery terminals of my 12V 100 ah Lithium battery (Renogy Smart with BMS). Any of you see a problem with this arrangement?

I don't see a problem. THat device takes a wide input voltage range. I do wonder how the battery will be charged. Also, the device you linked does not list any type of quick charge, just 5 Volt, 2 Amp. I would think for $33 it would have one of those features. There's non-Quick Charge USB devices for a lot less.

I'm not in Canada, but this is a link to the one I bought in the US for half the price yo listed plus it had Quick Charge 3.0:

Amazon.com: Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket, ADSDIA 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 Car Charger Power Adapter Outlet with LED Display for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV Golf Cart DIY Kit

Buy Quick Charge 3.0 USB Charger Socket, ADSDIA 12V/24V 36W Aluminum Waterproof Dual QC3.0 Car Charger Power Adapter Outlet with LED Display for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV Golf Cart DIY Kit: Automobile Chargers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

It comes with a fuse and fuse holder, 10A.

As long as you don't cut the in line fuse holder out it will be fine. I only mention this because there is no internal fuse in the ones I've seem, although some ads make it looks like the charger comes apart and has a fuse.

 

[SolarShed]

thanks!

I will make sure not to cut the fuse out. This was my concern, like these little things causing fires, and as for the battery, yes you're right the BMS should cut things out if it deplete the battery too much, but I don't think this will happen unless there is a big problem. The 100 amp hr lithium (with self-heating function) battery is being charged by 2x100 watt panels, with a Renogy Rover 40 amp.

I purposely avoided those high amperage ones like yours (which is available on Amazon.ca), as I'm not actually using this to charge a phone but to run a battery and USB powered air quality monitor that only required 5V/1A.

The problem is in the winter, the battery freezes in the air quality monitor unit freeze (-18oC) and the air quality monitor goes offline. With the USB plugged in, it will primarily use USB power so hence I need the 27/7 USB power.

Ok, will proceed with this little project thanks for your input, all!

 

[Symbioquine]

I just got this unit and did some light weight testing with it. So far I've observed up to around ~55 watts of power consumed from my bench power supply (1.6 - 2.3 amps at 24v input) - charging a 2020 M1 Macbook Pro. I can't say too much more about it yet in terms of longevity or what voltage/amerage is getting to the device being charged. I may report back more in this thread as I learn more...

 

[SolarShed]

Got my USB installed, was quite simple. So I have simple question....how do I measure the current being used up by the device connected to the USB port using my mulitmeter? Here's some pics of my setup.

 

[chrisski]

I would not use a multimeter to measure current for a USB device. I use a battery monitor or clamp meter. I have looked at but not used measuring devices that go between the USB cord and socket.

The Quick CHarge 3.0 tends to start out at a higher amperage when low SOC, and drop as it gets to full. Kind of starts at 24 watts, and drops to around 8 watts. I would just not want to disconnect wires for that many measurements.

I already have a shunt, so if there is no solar power coming in, I just get a baseline idle draw on the shunt and then subtract that from my device as it charges. I’ve also used a clamp meter around a wire to measure USB draw on a USB device where the system had no shunt.

Measuring amperage with a multimeter means you need to break a circuit before measuring,

 

[SolarShed]

I would not use a multimeter to measure current for a USB device. I use a battery monitor or clamp meter. I have looked at but not used measuring devices that go between the USB cord and socket.

The Quick CHarge 3.0 tends to start out at a higher amperage when low SOC, and drop as it gets to full. Kind of starts at 24 watts, and drops to around 8 watts. I would just not want to disconnect wires for that many measurements.

I already have a shunt, so if there is no solar power coming in, I just get a baseline idle draw on the shunt and then subtract that from my device as it charges. I’ve also used a clamp meter around a wire to measure USB draw on a USB device where the system had no shunt.

Measuring amperage with a multimeter means you need to break a circuit before measuring,

hmm I never thought of a clamp meter. I thought clamp meters only did AC, but I could be wrong. The idea of using the battery monitor/shunt I did try yesternight but I think it wasn't consuming enough, but I'll try again tonight.

You're right, the multimeter route is a bit tricky, I watched a few YouTube videos and from what I gather, it has to be part of circuit;

I disconnected a terminal from the back of the USB port and then included the multimeter (on 10A fused setting and COM) in the circuit, but the USB didn't light up. I tried a few times but got no reading, so before I start a fire or ruined something, I just stopped.

 

[740GLE]

Uni-t has some very affordable clamp ammeters that do AC and DC, try and snag one that reads 400a, you know just in case your system grows.

 

[SolarShed]

Uni-t has some very affordable clamp ammeters that do AC and DC, try and snag one that reads 400a, you know just in case your system grows.

Thanks can you provide the link for a model you recommend? Thanks!

 

[chrisski]

This is one way to do it

https://www.amazon.com/MakerHawk-3-...eywords=usb+power+meter&qid=1632962275&sr=8-2

The way I mentioned measuring amps with a clamp meter or shunt, only gives you amps. Something like linked above gives you the full picture.

I have a USB charger powered by a 100 watt panel that charges at 24 volts. 24 volts is supposed get you the quick charge, at .6 amps, should be pulling more amps. QC 3.0 protocol goes something like, starts at 5 volts 2 amps (10 watts), if the device and charger can push more a handshake happens and goes to 12 volts one amp (12 watts), checks again and then goes to 24 volts 1 amp (24 watts).

That device above will tell you if your device and charger are actually entering the QC 3.0 protocol. I hav a feeling that some cheaper chargers like the USB-C or UB QC 3.0 don’t performed as advertised, and this will tell. I would also not be surprised if the cheapest 24 volt chargers stick at delivering 5 volts and 2 amps to the phone.

 

[740GLE]

UNI-T UT204R Digital Clamp Meter, Auto Ranging TRMS 6000 Counts NCV Volt Amp Meter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PPDCWF...abc_7V3Q0RDM0ETQGVMZP0HK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It’s no fluke but is good enough for sanity checks.

 

[SolarShed]

I can see the value of having that meter hawk, that's brilliant! I just purchased it and can use that for many applications.

I was also looking at the uni-t meter and flukes, the latter is pricey.
The uni-t meter is pretty sensitive at,

DC current (A). 0.06~600A. Accuracy:±(2%+5)

But then I looked at another, the UNI-T UT210E, which is about the same price as the 204r and new model, which had even lower current reading of 1mA to 100A.

It doesn't go to 600A but I feel 100 amp should be able to most of what I need!

Thanks all, amazon says 1-2 weeks delivery for both items.