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Victron DC-DC Charger - Power even when system is off.

HopefulExplorers

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I just installed / connected my Victron DC-DC 12-12 30 Isolated charger in my Sprinter 907 (2018+) today. I connected the positive input to the battery with a 60amp fuse in between the battery and Orion. I connected the input negative to my chassis ground, as there is no space on the Sprinter battery.

The output + and - are connected via my Lynx distributor to the rest of the system.

Here’s the conundrum: The van was turned off (as much as possible anyway, never can figure out how to totally turn it off on these modern vans) and the master disconnect set to off, and my solar was disconnected. Despite that my DC system was somehow being powered by the van battery - I was getting a reading of 12.07 V on my BMV and all my DC items worked.

Clearly I’ve missed something here? How do I stop my van battery from being drained? Which connection did I mess up/ need to change?
 

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Get a clamp style DDM that measures amps like:

Klein Tools CL120 Digital Clamp Meter, Auto-Ranging 400 Amp AC, AC/DC Voltage, Resistance, Continuity, Non-Contact Voltage Tester Detection https://a.co/d/4HIek7M

Then repeat your test but turn on lots of house power, by clamping over the wire you should be able to see the amps DC current flowing down the wires.
 
Not familiar with the Orion, but you might want to check the settings. Perhaps the input voltage is too low and it's staying on. Or is there a signal level input so it can tell when the ignition is on that's connected to an always on circuit instead of an ignition on circuit?
 
I just installed / connected my Victron DC-DC 12-12 30 Isolated charger in my Sprinter 907 (2018+) today. I connected the positive input to the battery with a 60amp fuse in between the battery and Orion. I connected the input negative to my chassis ground, as there is no space on the Sprinter battery.

The output + and - are connected via my Lynx distributor to the rest of the system.

Here’s the conundrum: The van was turned off (as much as possible anyway, never can figure out how to totally turn it off on these modern vans) and the master disconnect set to off, and my solar was disconnected. Despite that my DC system was somehow being powered by the van battery - I was getting a reading of 12.07 V on my BMV and all my DC items worked.

Clearly I’ve missed something here? How do I stop my van battery from being drained? Which connection did I mess up/ need to change?

What's the dc-to-dc charger supplying?

I assume a house battery. So that battery is still connected.
 
Yeah, a diagram showing at least major components and circuits would be helpful.
 
my first thought is you have done something other than intended in the wiring as the charger will not operate with the ignition (alternator) off, the parameters are programmed in the settings. not even sure you can trick the settings.

the screencap you posted shows the SCC as “off” but still reporting in via bluetooth. assuming you have a “smart” dcdc charger it would/should normally also report in via bluetooth app even if not in operation mode.

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You don't seem to have a contact to the Orion via the app.
The setup procedure is section 4 in the manual.

SUMMARY.
Remove the green on/off bridge.
Open the app
Set charger mode, ( the alternative is power supply mode)
Adjust the start voltage and shutdown as required, default start is 14 volts, default shutdown is 13.1 ot 13.5 volts.
Reconnect the on/of bridge.

It's uncommon for the Orion not to work 'out of the box'.

The 2018 Sprinter has a smart alternator so connecting the negative to chassis/ body is the correct method.
 
Unfortunately the Orion I have is a ‘dumb’ one (see picture) so I have no way of changing the charging parameters - except for the output voltage which I can adjust blindly with a screw driver.

The screen shot was with my house batteries disconnected via the battery switch on the positive terminal of my Lynx. Therefore the voltage the BMV was reading was coming from the van battery.

My suspicion is that these modern vans simply don’t turn off properly until you actually lock the van. My last van was a 1993 Mercedes 711D, so I’m trying to adjust to everything being electronic, and my ignition being a button.

I will reconnect the charger tomorrow, lock the van, and then see if that actually stops power going into the Lynx distributor. I had a similar issue with my MPPT where until I added a disconnect the Lynx would be powered from my solar panels, even though the batteries were turned off.
 

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Not familiar with the Orion, but you might want to check the settings. Perhaps the input voltage is too low and it's staying on. Or is there a signal level input so it can tell when the ignition is on that's connected to an always on circuit instead of an ignition on circuit?
The charger + is connected directly to the + battery terminal, perhaps that means it’s always on? As opposed to connecting in where the other vehicle cables are in a separate box - but it all connects to the same terminal as far as I can tell.
 
Orion I have is a ‘dumb
Then it's not a charger, it's a DC to DC converter, that's why is working as it's supposed to and producing a output.

You need the Orion tri smart charger, this will automatically switch on and off relative to starter battery volts. Unlike the dc to dc converter, the charger has a charge profile, bulk, absorbtion and float.

A work a round for the DC to DC converter is to use the H or L control pins. These are normally linked for continious operation. The manual explains how they can be used to control the Orion , for example the ignition on ( key on) could be the control.

The better option would be to replace with the Orion charger, you have the other 'good' Victron units so it's worth having a correct system.

You comment that you had power even with the battery isolated, the Victron solar charger will provide power with no battery ( once its been set up).

A final point, you don't need the isolated charger, as for safety the house battery needs the negative connected to van metal.

Mike
 
Then it's not a charger, it's a DC to DC converter, that's why is working as it's supposed to and producing a output.

You need the Orion tri smart charger, this will automatically switch on and off relative to starter battery volts. Unlike the dc to dc converter, the charger has a charge profile, bulk, absorbtion and float.

A work a round for the DC to DC converter is to use the H or L control pins. These are normally linked for continious operation. The manual explains how they can be used to control the Orion , for example the ignition on ( key on) could be the control.

The better option would be to replace with the Orion charger, you have the other 'good' Victron units so it's worth having a correct system.

You comment that you had power even with the battery isolated, the Victron solar charger will provide power with no battery ( once its been set up).

A final point, you don't need the isolated charger, as for safety the house battery needs the negative connected to van metal.

Mike
Mike, I think you just saved my sanity! I was getting ready to sell the stupid modern van, and buy another old one instead! ? Looks like I will be shopping for a proper charger tomorrow instead.
 
Mike, I think you just saved my sanity! I was getting ready to sell the stupid modern van, and buy another old one instead! ? Looks like I will be shopping for a proper charger tomorrow instead.
Can't it be turned on and off by shorting the pins located in the green connector there?

Easy enough to wire that up to a key on circuit.

The jumper wire currently in it is to keep it on.
 
Can't it be turned on and off by shorting the pins located in the green connector there?

Easy enough to wire that up to a key on circuit.

The jumper wire currently in it is to keep it on.
As prescribed in previous post, he has the incorrect device for his requirement. Converter vs Charger.
 
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