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Victron MultiPlus 12/500 or Victron Phoenix 12/500 + Blue Power Charger

max514

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I'm about to pull the trigger on a Victron Phoenix 12/500 with a Victron Blue Power Charger 12V/15A but I noticed the MultiPlus 12/500 seems to combine those two in one neat package. This will be used with an SOK 206Ah and a Victron Smartshunt.

Am I understanding the function of the Multiplus correctly? Should I just get the 2 in 1 in stead of the, well, 2 in 2
 
The MultiPlus is an inverter, charger, and transfer switch combined into one unit. This lets you connect AC power in which can be used to charge the battery and/or provide AC out. It also allows you to get AC out just from the battery. Such a unit is much simpler than buying a separate inverter, separate charger, and separate transfer switch and wiring them together. I would definitely consider the MultiPlus over the separate devices.

BTW - unrelated to that decision, do keep in mind that both the Phoenix 12/500 and the MultiPlus 12/500 are rated at 500VA, not 500W. They are both actually 430W. Just something to consider based on your actual wattage needs. The next size up is the 800VA models which are 700W.
 
+1 to going with a single device instead of two.

What type of load will the inverter be used with?
All the devices plugged in at once wouldn't pull more than 300W. It's mostly to power Starlink internet and charge the laptop a few times. I'm sure other things will come up but for now, that's pretty much it.

Obviously, since reading everything this forum has to offer, I'm conflicted. I went from wanting to get a small power station with solar panels to realizing sun could be scarce at the time of year when I'll need power the most and thinking a Bluetti AC200P would be better. I have a hard time wrapping my brain around spending over 2K+ on something that's not repairable and cannot be expected to last longer than the 2 year warranty period.

I then jumped from that to deciding on a big SOK 206Ah battery, a Victron Smartshunt, an inverter (375VA of 500VA), and a charger to top off the battery between trips. Basically, I'd store the battery in a suitable case (if I can find one since the SOK 206 is weirdly sized), wire some 2 AWG wire through grommets on top of the case to an Anderson connecter, and mount what I have on the diagram on a plywood board as close to the size of the top of the case as I can get it. From there, if I really need solar, I can always add a Victron MPPT charge controller. I know this is a "gateway setup" and that I'll probably move up from here at some point, which is why I'm happy to go with components rather than an all-in-one.

After watching some Will videos, I thought I could start off by replacing the charger with an MPPT charge controller and feeding it with a voltage regulator, the way he does in his crate builds, but I'm not sure I'd want to go to sleep with a setup like that connected in my basement, charging my battery overnight.

So all that brought me to the Multiplus, thinking it might be the better choice. I know it's a big bigger and more expensive than the inverters but not by much if I take away the charger. If I was permanently mounting it in a van or an RV, it would be a no-brainer, but I'm using this setup in a popup RV that has it's own electrical system (Lead-Acid battery + converter and 4 circuit DC distribution all-in-one panel, with a shore power connector outside, which I never use because I boondock). That setup is enough to power the LED lights, water pump, and fire up the propane furnace. It's not what I would have wired if I had gone from scratch but it works, it's safe, and it's clean. This is how I concluded a small, portable setup is the way to go for me.

Damn, that was long-winded...
 

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With that perspective, the Multiplus may be overkill.

For your popup camper, you may not connect to shore power when boondocking, but what about at home when you're preparing the camper?
 
With that perspective, the Multiplus may be overkill.

For your popup camper, you may not connect to shore power when boondocking, but what about at home when you're preparing the camper?
Ya, as I wrote that essay (sorry), I realized it might be...

When I'm home, I connect it to shore power and the built-in converter it came with, although it's not great, does the job.
 
You might not need an inverter at all. I would think the Starlink could be powered straight from DC. You can certainly charge a laptop straight from DC. Avoid all of the wasteful DC->AC->DC conversions. This will save power and avoid the need for the inverter. Something to consider.
 
You might not need an inverter at all. I would think the Starlink could be powered straight from DC. You can certainly charge a laptop straight from DC. Avoid all of the wasteful DC->AC->DC conversions. This will save power and avoid the need for the inverter. Something to consider.

The Starlink dish is powered by the router which is A/C only. The only way (that I know of) to power the system with DC is to bypass the router altogether and power the dish via the ethernet adapter. It required some modding in order to inject PoE but it's complicated, [probably] voids warranty, and it's not practical for a mobile setup. If it was fixed somewhere, I'd probably do it.

I can definitely charge a laptop straight from DC. I included the laptop strictly for calculating the max load for sizing the inverter.
 
I'm surprised a router is AC only. Is the power cord hardwired to the router? Or does it have a typical power cord with a wall wart and barrel connector that plugs into the router? If the latter then it is DC powered.
 
I'm surprised a router is AC only. Is the power cord hardwired to the router? Or does it have a typical power cord with a wall wart and barrel connector that plugs into the router? If the latter then it is DC powered.

Yes, directly to the router, which powers the dish. No power brick, unfortunately.

Here is the recipe, if you're interested:

 
I got an email from Starlink the other day with a survey. One of questions was if there Was a need for a 12v power option. I said yes Of course. But that tells me people are asking so it maybe Starlink store In the near future.
 
I got an email from Starlink the other day with a survey. One of questions was if there Was a need for a 12v power option. I said yes Of course. But that tells me people are asking so it maybe Starlink store In the near future.

That's awesome! They seem to move fast so, fingers crossed.

I'm amazed it wasn't an option to begin with, considering the user base.
 
That's awesome! They seem to move fast so, fingers crossed.

I'm amazed it wasn't an option to begin with, considering the user base.

I know. Make a portable unit for RV and camping but in 120v?

For me it’s not a big deal. My RV has the space for a 300ah Chins and a 1500w inverter. But it would be nice for a small RV that just don’t have the space for all the extra equipment.
 
Weboost included the DC power supply in their cell phone booster kit along with the AC power supply. I've used both but now use just the DC power supply.
 
I would stick with a small sine wave inverter in the 300 to 500 watt range. Use the existing converter if utility power is available. If the SOK has BT and shows capacity I would skip the shunt also. No particular need for the Victron premium here.
 
I would stick with a small sine wave inverter in the 300 to 500 watt range. Use the existing converter if utility power is available. If the SOK has BT and shows capacity I would skip the shunt also. No particular need for the Victron premium here.
No bluetooth, unfortunately.

 
I ordered the SOK but it hasn't shipped yet. Is the smartshunt overkill for my setup?
 
I ordered the SOK but it hasn't shipped yet. Is the smartshunt overkill for my setup?
Depends on usage profile. Common voltmeter could be enough to determine the top 10% and the bottom 30%. Hard to judge the middle range. Can always add the shunt later if needed. I mostly use just a voltmeter although my BMS does BT the capacity.

msf4vpdl-1_14.jpg
 
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