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add victron multiplus to renogy system?

If you have a need to change the AC input current, and you're not hooking up a Cerbo or other GX device, you may want it.

If you want the same control the panel offers via smartphone, a VE.Bus Smart Dongle will allow VictronConnect via bluetooth, and you can turn it on/off/charger only and change the AC input current limit. No other configuration changes are allowed.

The MK3-USB adapter will allow a PC/Mac running VictronConnect full control of the inverter, but it's a physical USB connection.
What is the purpose of changing the ac input current? Or when and why is it needed?

I just figured it made sense to turn the inverter on and off. Like when it's parked in my driveway at home, no reason to have It pushing power to everything discharging batteries for nothing. Then again I just leave it set and let the dc power w.e it wants (ie fridge) and nothing else makes a draw so really doesn't discharge any but at night a little.
 
What is the purpose of changing the ac input current? Or when and why is it needed?

I just figured it made sense to turn the inverter on and off. Like when it's parked in my driveway at home, no reason to have It pushing power to everything discharging batteries for nothing. Then again I just leave it set and let the dc power w.e it wants (ie fridge) and nothing else makes a draw so really doesn't discharge any but at night a little.
It's so you can turn the input down to say 10-13A on a 15A 120V circuit, to avoid nuisance tripping a breaker. By default out of the box it's going to pull as much input as it's rated for.
 
It's so you can turn the input down to say 10-13A on a 15A 120V circuit, to avoid nuisance tripping a breaker. By default out of the box it's going to pull as much input as it's rated for.
gottcha, doesnt seem very useful for my application. so i guess the question is without it, the inverter will always be on? is that bad or an issue? it can be installed without it right? or should i be looking at the cerbo gx? and the touch 50 screen to go with it?
 
gottcha, doesnt seem very useful for my application. so i guess the question is without it, the inverter will always be on? is that bad or an issue? it can be installed without it right? or should i be looking at the cerbo gx? and the touch 50 screen to go with it?
You can turn the inverter section off and just have it charge from grid/generator, or off altogether.
 
Basic functionality in terms of operating mode (off, charge only, invert) etc can be achieved using the Bluetooth to ve.bus dongle and victronconnect afaik. So you don't need a Cerbo GX etc. If you do get one, you can use your phone as a display for the GX as needed.
 
but that is a separate unit then the one i need to purchase to program the unit, right? (so many pieces to buy hah)
You only need the USB to ve bus cable if you need to do things like program assistants. For regular everyday configuration you can do it via Bluetooth.

Grab the victronconnect app, there is a demo mode which will show you what options are available for any particular piece of hardware.

Screenshot_20240403_112250.jpg
 
Yes. The AC output should also have a breaker on it.

Just for clarification, I'm not sure that the original question of how to route the AC circuits has been answered. I've done two Multiplus installs, one in a simple 30 amp system where I did everything and the other was a 50 amp split system where I handled the DC side of things. In both installs the order was like this:

Shore Power--> |\
.................|-> Transfer Switch -> Multiplus -> RV Main Distribution Panel
Generator----> |/

Diagram edited with periods to force formatting.
 
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You only need the USB to ve bus cable if you need to do things like program assistants. For regular everyday configuration you can do it via Bluetooth.

This is not correct.

The VE.Bus smart dongle giving BT access is only for monitoring, ON/OFF/CHARGER ONLY, AC input current changes.


When connected over bluetooth, using the VE.Bus Smart Dongle, only status data, voltages, and other information can be read. And it can be operated: switch between On, Off and Charger-only mode, and set a Shore current input limit. No changes can be made to the product.

An MK3-USB is required to change settings and perform firmware updates and settings. And, as that requires a USB port, it is not possible to change inverter/charger configuration or perform firmware updates on a Apple iPad or iPhone.


No programming can be done via BT.

For programming:
  1. MK3-USB adapter and MAC/PC Victronconnect
  2. MK3-USB adapter and PC VEConfigure3 (can also do assistants)
  3. MK3-USB-C adapter and Victronconnect on iPhone/Android
  4. GX device/VRM and remote upload/download of VEConfig files modified on a Windows PC (can also do assistants)

#1, 2 and 3 can configure multiple inverters in parallel.
#4 can't, but it can make small changes to an already configured parallel setup.
 
but that is a separate unit then the one i need to purchase to program the unit, right? (so many pieces to buy hah)

Correct. If you're okay with using the MK3-USB with VictronConnect (PC or phone plugged into adapber) every time you need to change the AC Input Current limit (same thing the dial does on the separate control panel), you need nothing else.
 
This is not correct.

The VE.Bus smart dongle giving BT access is only for monitoring, ON/OFF/CHARGER ONLY, AC input current changes.


When connected over bluetooth, using the VE.Bus Smart Dongle, only status data, voltages, and other information can be read. And it can be operated: switch between On, Off and Charger-only mode, and set a Shore current input limit. No changes can be made to the product.

An MK3-USB is required to change settings and perform firmware updates and settings. And, as that requires a USB port, it is not possible to change inverter/charger configuration or perform firmware updates on a Apple iPad or iPhone.


No programming can be done via BT.

For programming:
  1. MK3-USB adapter and MAC/PC Victronconnect
  2. MK3-USB adapter and PC VEConfigure3 (can also do assistants)
  3. MK3-USB-C adapter and Victronconnect on iPhone/Android
  4. GX device/VRM and remote upload/download of VEConfig files modified on a Windows PC (can also do assistants)

#1, 2 and 3 can configure multiple inverters in parallel.
#4 can't, but it can make small changes to an already configured parallel setup.
Ah my apologies. So the screens the victronconnect demo mode show for a multiplus must be for when connected via a USB->ve.bus adaptor, the usb-c version of which could work with an android phone (charger settings, power in limits etc), but only while hard wired. Because they don't have the "smart" level brains that they have in their SCCs etc
 
Ah my apologies. So the screens the victronconnect demo mode show for a multiplus must be for when connected via a USB->ve.bus adaptor, the usb-c version of which could work with an android phone (charger settings, power in limits etc), but only while hard wired.

Yes.

Because they don't have the "smart" level brains that they have in their SCCs etc

I think it has more to do with deliberate user restrictions. While DIY is prolific, Victron has an installer/dealer model. Their expectation is that systems are professionally installed. The MK3-USB is an installer's tool. The VE.Bus smart dongle is a consumer's tool.
 
Yes.



I think it has more to do with deliberate user restrictions. While DIY is prolific, Victron has an installer/dealer model. Their expectation is that systems are professionally installed. The MK3-USB is an installer's tool. The VE.Bus smart dongle is a consumer's tool.
Makes sense. Also with their recent ability to lock configs down for installer/owner etc.

Screenshot_20240403_150120_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
okay back to more questions. Why do i need a breaker going between the inverter and rv panel? i just reviewed a p.o NAZ solar sent me a year ago. and it didnt include anything such. just trying to get my ducks in a row and everything ordered. debaiting if i should have cables pre made or order 2/0 and terminals myself and make em. (what the most cost effective route is and where to buy from) attached is what they tried selling me last year. Im not sure how i was put into conact with them. Im obviously not upgrading panels and everything at this time.

also im going to attach a drawing that someone sent me with the same rv and how they wired theirs up. Please let me know if im good to follow or what you would change. the visual helped.
 

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I like these guys, really good pricing and low shipping, not a lot of markup versus making your own:

the guy who provided me that drawing said he used them also. so i probably will. only down side to that i see is i need to get the inverter and everything installed and disconnected and then see what im working with to order it and wait. but i have some down time where it can wait currently
 
Just for clarification, I'm not sure that the original question of how to route the AC circuits has been answered. I've done two Multiplus installs, one in a simple 30 amp system where I did everything and the other was a 50 amp split system where I handled the DC side of things. In both installs the order was like this:

Shore Power -> |\
| -> Transfer Switch -> Multiplus -> RV Main Distribution Panel
Generator -> |/
A few posts up I posted a diagram. From what you typed and the diagram. They are not the same the way I'm reading it? Why is the generator last? And not also ran to the auto trasmnsfer switch?
 
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