Hi, I have a 2014 Taxa Cricket Camper, recently added a new WFCO-8740-AD, a new Battle Born 100AH, and getting ready to add a second BB 100AH, then add a Victron Multiplus Compact 12/2000/80-50. Can I ask if anyone could review my attached wiring diagrams? Pages 1&2 show my work up until now and pages 3 and 4 is where I am asking for help. Big question is ground for multiplus housing. Thanks for the community.
Victron Multiplus 2000 wiring help
- Thread starter NGNERD
- Start date
Here are the things I saw...
Multiplus:
The 1/0 cable is not the recommended cable from Victron, they recommend 70mm2 - which is 2/0 cable. (don't skimp on the wire).
Also , they recommend 300a to feed the inverter, with only two batteries you may have difficulties if you are using it at max output. (just be aware that to use it full-out - you may need a third battery - but my guess is you will work around that - if it runs your microwave.)
Also, I just wanted to make sure you know the watt limits: (this comes from the data sheet)
1600w at 77F
1450w at 104F
1100w at 150F (if you have a microwave does it work with the above output?)
As you start using the MultiPlus hard it heats up then derates.
Ground - Use a nice big wire from the Multiplus to the frame of your rig - You will have a frame to Negative wire already - but it is probably just a 10awg wire. You will want to have it the same size as the Multiplus to frame wire (it completes the circuit if there is a problem).
FUSE:
The other item I saw was you are planning on an ANL Fuse - Many people use Class T fuses on lithium systems.
COMMUNICATIONS:
It doesn't show it in your plan, you will need a way to communicate with the Multiplus. The best item is a Cerbo (and a touch). A Digital Multi Control will also work - you only need one or the other - NOT both. (another option is to roll-your-own RasberryPi with the GX software. (I am using a CCGX - its an older unit). Just wanted to make sure you didn't miss this.
WFCO-8740-AD
When you add the Multiplus, you will want to disconnect the charger part of this. The MultiPlus will charge the Battleborns just how they want to be charged.
Victron Dealer:
Make sure you know who your Victron Dealer is and contact them before ordering - have them run through your plans too. They can be a great support as you are setting it up. See if your Victron dealer will pre-program the Multiplus to the specs for Battle Born and the other specs you need. That can save you another expensive cable or time working on the unit over VRM.
Good Luck - I think you will really like the Victron equipment - I really like mine in my MotorHome.
Multiplus:
The 1/0 cable is not the recommended cable from Victron, they recommend 70mm2 - which is 2/0 cable. (don't skimp on the wire).
Also , they recommend 300a to feed the inverter, with only two batteries you may have difficulties if you are using it at max output. (just be aware that to use it full-out - you may need a third battery - but my guess is you will work around that - if it runs your microwave.)
Also, I just wanted to make sure you know the watt limits: (this comes from the data sheet)
1600w at 77F
1450w at 104F
1100w at 150F (if you have a microwave does it work with the above output?)
As you start using the MultiPlus hard it heats up then derates.
Ground - Use a nice big wire from the Multiplus to the frame of your rig - You will have a frame to Negative wire already - but it is probably just a 10awg wire. You will want to have it the same size as the Multiplus to frame wire (it completes the circuit if there is a problem).
FUSE:
The other item I saw was you are planning on an ANL Fuse - Many people use Class T fuses on lithium systems.
COMMUNICATIONS:
It doesn't show it in your plan, you will need a way to communicate with the Multiplus. The best item is a Cerbo (and a touch). A Digital Multi Control will also work - you only need one or the other - NOT both. (another option is to roll-your-own RasberryPi with the GX software. (I am using a CCGX - its an older unit). Just wanted to make sure you didn't miss this.
WFCO-8740-AD
When you add the Multiplus, you will want to disconnect the charger part of this. The MultiPlus will charge the Battleborns just how they want to be charged.
Victron Dealer:
Make sure you know who your Victron Dealer is and contact them before ordering - have them run through your plans too. They can be a great support as you are setting it up. See if your Victron dealer will pre-program the Multiplus to the specs for Battle Born and the other specs you need. That can save you another expensive cable or time working on the unit over VRM.
Good Luck - I think you will really like the Victron equipment - I really like mine in my MotorHome.
Wow, thank you for your time, review and input @Rocketman I am grateful.
Yes, I will upgrade to 2/0 then, no problem.
In regards to 300 amp to run the multi 2k, there is no microwave, but I do plan on using a keurig at 1500 watt max. My biggest goal with the multi is my keurig coffee during quite hours and it's charge rate, when I do have to fire up my Honda EU 2000i I want to run it as short of a time as possible and the 80 amp charge rate sounds great to me.
Other than the keurig, I do not have a microwave or A/C, my next highest draw appliance is a 12 volt compact water heater at about 20 amps that I use in the morning and evenings, next would be my 12 volt engle fridge, water pump, then some lights.
Ground - thanks again for the recommendation, I will run 2/0 from the multi to the chassis frame, drill a hole in the frame as to not stack on top of the existing chassis ground, I really appreciate this suggestion on this ground.
Fuse - again, thank you, I will use a blue sea class t 250 amp fuse and holder, part number 5502100.
Communication - Based on my budget, I will probably do the VE.Bus smart dongle, but would love to upgrade to that cerbo down the road.
WFCO-8740-AD - Yes, I will disconnect it's converter charger, seems I can never get it into bulk mode anyway, so another incentive for me to get a good quality charger and converter. If I understand correctly, I just disconnect its 110 input side to the converter charger, then disconnect it's 12 volt leads to the dc panel, then the dc panel will be fed from the multiplus via the old wires that went from the WFCO's DC panel to the batteries that are now connected to my new busbars.
Victron Dealer - I purchased my batteries direct from battle born, and thank you for suggesting, I will also send them my diagram and purchase the multiplus 2k from them.
I can not thank you enough for your time.
One point on the ground - you only want one ground path, so when you put a heavy wire from the frame to negative buss bar - be sure and remove the old wire.
The keurig is probably ok, but you said it was 1500w - the Multiplus will only deliver 1450w. You are probably ok, because the keurig probably won’t use the full 1500w but you may want to test that first. Do you have an amp meter you can test it with?
Good Luck
The keurig is probably ok, but you said it was 1500w - the Multiplus will only deliver 1450w. You are probably ok, because the keurig probably won’t use the full 1500w but you may want to test that first. Do you have an amp meter you can test it with?
Good Luck
Thank you @Rocketman .
I was wondering about this other ground wire going to the frame on the "original negative DC bus", thank you for the advice here.
If the goal is to only have one ground path to the chassis, then that poses another question if I may., but first in summary to accomplish the one path ground to chassis:
- I will remove the ground wire from the "original negative DC bus bar" to the frame
- Then connect the "original negative DC bus bar" to my “new negative DC bus bar” using the old wire that used to just run to the old battery.
I think Will refers to in the "Grounding made easier" reading as a "main bonding jumper", although I am not jumping a neutral bus bar to negative bus bar, I think I can still use this terminology in this context hopefully and just call it a “bonding jumper”
- Then I will run a 2/0 ground path to the frame from the “new negative DC bus bar” to the chassis, this will be my one ground path to chassis.
- So my question is. My camper also has a "third negative bus bar" up front on the camper for the water pump, 12 volt water heater, and some lighting and that "third negative bus bar" also has a ground wire going to chassis as well, please see attached, these 5 pages are the complete original wiring diagram from the manual and on page 4 you can see where the "third negative bus bar" is up front and has its own chassis ground. Seems like the necessary thing to do here would be to disconnect this chassis grounding wire and run it to the “new negative DC bus bar” as a "bonding jumper" to ensure only one ground path to chassis, but I am not sure. Would you mind to let me know if you think my decision here makes sense?
Thank you so much again if you have time to give your thoughts.
Paul_R
Solar Enthusiast
What is the distance between the batteries and Multiplus?
3 feet or less, thanks Paul
I have a Multiplus 12/3000. Works great! Mine had two studs for each set of cables (positive/negative). Just to be sure, I ran 2/0 to each of those studs, so four cables. Overkill, but none of my connections or cables heat up. Your use of a single 2/0 cable for each side should be fine.
I installed a distinct ground bus bar. All my equipment grounds connect to that, then there is a single wire from the ground bus bar to the frame of the camper.
I installed a distinct ground bus bar. All my equipment grounds connect to that, then there is a single wire from the ground bus bar to the frame of the camper.
Thanks for your response, did you only have one ground to frame?
Thanks. The multiplus seems to be great.
Paul_R
Solar Enthusiast
I basically did something similar with my 24/3000. My Multiplus ground goes goes to the Lynx Distributor and ends with a frame connection via a busbar. There aren't a heck of a lot of options for grounding in an RV. What the heck are you going to ground anything to if not the frame?
Negatives are highlighted in yellow:
Well, that's a good question. I'm still tracking down what the factory did.
Thank you @Rocketman and everyone else, I appreciate the help. I have everything up and running, and the Victron Multiplus Compact 12/2000 even runs my Keurig as I was hoping.
Thanks again for everyone's time and assistance.
Thanks again for everyone's time and assistance.
