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Was anyone successful in getting Renogy DCC50s User profile to float for Li? SOLVED! DYNOMAN IS A LEGEND

JeffW

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I used the default Li profile on my Renogy dcc50s for a year...and my batteries (2 SOK's and a Battleborn) all had their capacities drop by far more than I expected.
I replaced the SOK BMS's on warranty (they had old / wonky balancing logic)

I decided I needed to finally use a user profile charge profile...and surprise surprise -- I can set the values with a BT-2 but under no combination (larger spreads between float/boost/boost return) will the damn thing ever leave Boost -- just like it did on the Lithium profile. It'll keep spamming the batteries with 14.4, 14.5 and 14.6 volts boost (those settings do "take") until the sun drops...essentially keeping the bank at 100% all damned day.

Was anybody actually successful in getting this to work? I've read every thread with this charger.
Any help greatly appreciated. I'm about to try the GEL profile as at least that one will stop boosting after two hours.
Thanks gang,
Jeff
 
I used the default Li profile on my Renogy dcc50s for a year...and my batteries (2 SOK's and a Battleborn) all had their capacities drop by far more than I expected.
I replaced the SOK BMS's on warranty (they had old / wonky balancing logic)

I decided I needed to finally use a user profile charge profile...and surprise surprise -- I can set the values with a BT-2 but under no combination (larger spreads between float/boost/boost return) will the damn thing ever leave Boost -- just like it did on the Lithium profile. It'll keep spamming the batteries with 14.4, 14.5 and 14.6 volts boost (those settings do "take") until the sun drops...essentially keeping the bank at 100% all damned day.

Was anybody actually successful in getting this to work? I've read every thread with this charger.
Any help greatly appreciated. I'm about to try the GEL profile as at least that one will stop boosting after two hours.
Thanks gang,
Jeff

This is a shot in the dark, but might be worth a try. I don't have Renogy's Dcc50s, but have several Renogy Rover solar charge controllers. It turns out the Rovers are made by SRNE and the SRNE app works well on the Rovers. The SRNE allows allows all options on the Rover to be programmed. If the Renogy Dcc50s is also made by SRNE then there is a good chance the software will work as well.



Also on the Rovers I found:
Equalize Charge Interval(Days) 185 (Must not be zero or Rover will stay in boost mode and never transition to float)
Number of days between equalizing lead acid batteries. Not used for Lifepo4
Unplug temp sensor from the Renogy Rover Solar Charge Controller. It is for lead acid and not Lifepo4.

Finally read this message on programming the Rovers maybe it will help:
 
I appreciate the response and info -- I'll take another look at the settings and see if any of the gotchas you listed are the culprit.
Spamming the BMS's with full charge (boost) all day sure is a bummer...and really stupid...and I'd prefer not to can this charger.
I'll report back in case it helps anyone else.
Thanks again.
 
This is a shot in the dark, but might be worth a try. I don't have Renogy's Dcc50s, but have several Renogy Rover solar charge controllers. It turns out the Rovers are made by SRNE and the SRNE app works well on the Rovers. The SRNE allows allows all options on the Rover to be programmed. If the Renogy Dcc50s is also made by SRNE then there is a good chance the software will work as well.



Also on the Rovers I found:
Equalize Charge Interval(Days) 185 (Must not be zero or Rover will stay in boost mode and never transition to float)
Number of days between equalizing lead acid batteries. Not used for Lifepo4
Unplug temp sensor from the Renogy Rover Solar Charge Controller. It is for lead acid and not Lifepo4.

Finally read this message on programming the Rovers maybe it will help:


Dynoman IS the MAN!!!
To anyone who ever encounters this weird anomaly where a USER profile won't float -- Dynoman's note that the equalize charge interval must not be zero is 100% the cause (at least for mine.) Changing this to a nonzero is functionally irrelevant as the equalize charge time can be zero -- but this must be nonzero (weird but whatever.) As soon as I changed that and saved -- my DCC50s immediately went to float.

I ran a load to pull it back into bulk and immediately after rebounding it returned to float.

Dynoman -- you're a freakin' legend in my book!
Thank you!
Jeff
 
Could you plese share the complete set of parameters? I'm currently using it with an AGM battery but I have a lifepo4 battery ready to install. Even if my firmware is probably different maybe the same trick could be necessary.

These are the parameter I can adjust:
  • Maximum Capacity Charging Amps
  • Battery Type
  • System Voltage (12V)
  • Boost Voltage
  • Float Voltage
  • Equalization Voltage
  • Boost Duration
  • Equalization Interval
  • Over Voltage Protection
  • Low Voltage Reconnect
  • Low Voltage Warning
  • Equalization Duration
  • LowSolar Current Shutdown
 
@JeffW Also interested in your settings. I have the same concern as I drive my truck almost daily, but don't need the house battery to be stuffed to 100% and 14.4V endlessly. Did yours never stop charging after reaching 14.4v? The 'boost recover' listed of 13.2v in the manual for the Li profile would indicate it would stop charging and not start again again until battery voltage dropped to 13.2, but is this how it actually works?
 
@JeffW Also interested in your settings. I have the same concern as I drive my truck almost daily, but don't need the house battery to be stuffed to 100% and 14.4V endlessly. Did yours never stop charging after reaching 14.4v? The 'boost recover' listed of 13.2v in the manual for the Li profile would indicate it would stop charging and not start again again until battery voltage dropped to 13.2, but is this how it actually works?


Hey mbour!
The problem with the DCC50s is that the boost time for the default Li profile is dashed out -- meaning it NEVER shuts off...so the boost recover of 13.2 is irrelevant as it is never reached until the MPPT production fades in the late afternoon/early evening production....which is why it spams the battery all day at the 14.4 volts.

The user profile though I was totally able to finally get to work -- it does go into absorption (boost) for my set time then drops to float as it should so it doesn't keep the bank at 100% for hours on end. The total gotcha was indeed the equalization charge interval can't be zero.

Here are my EXACT and COMPLETE charge parameters I use for my 12Volt LiFePo4 bank using a USER battery profile on a Renogy DCC50s -- it DOES AND WILL BOOST FOR ONLY MY 20 minutes then drops to my 13.6 of float! 13,6 float along with my boost return of 13.3 is a big enough spread to allow the MPPT to provide bigger loads through-out the day without going back into boost...but worst case -- it's only another 20 minutes. THESE WORK.. Just note that I use 14.6 V on my top end where many will choose 14.4. See details below for reason why.

My unique case: My battery bank is comprised of 3 100AH 12v in parallel -- one Battleborn and two SOK's. BB "recommends" 14.4 to 14.6. SOK "recommends" 14.6 volts for top balancing. So I use 14.6 knowing it's at the upper end of my BB -- but it's a short time a day due to my settings. Anywhere I have 14.6 you'd likely opt for 14.4

I've listed both in a chart and attached screen grabs of my settings.

High Volt Disconnect(V) 15.0
Charge Limit Voltage(V) 14.6
Equalize Charge Volt(V) 14.6
Boost Charge Volt(V) 14.6
Float Charge Volt(V) 13.6
Boost Char Return Volt(V) 13.3
Over Disc Reture Volt(V) 12.0
Low Voltage Alarm(V) 12.1
Over Discharge Volt(V) 11.1
Discharge Limit Volt(V) 10.6
Over Disc Delay Time(S) 15
Equalice Charge Time(Min) 0
Boost Charge Time(Min) 20
Equalize Charge Interval 255
Temperature Comensation(mv/) 0


Hope this helps!
Jeff
 

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Hey mbour!
The problem with the DCC50s is that the boost time for the default Li profile is dashed out -- meaning it NEVER shuts off...so the boost recover of 13.2 is irrelevant as it is never reached until the MPPT production fades in the late afternoon/early evening production....which is why it spams the battery all day at the 14.4 volts.

The user profile though I was totally able to finally get to work -- it does go into absorption (boost) for my set time then drops to float as it should so it doesn't keep the bank at 100% for hours on end. The total gotcha was indeed the equalization charge interval can't be zero.

Here are my EXACT and COMPLETE charge parameters I use for my 12Volt LiFePo4 bank using a USER battery profile on a Renogy DCC50s -- it DOES AND WILL BOOST FOR ONLY MY 20 minutes then drops to my 13.6 of float! 13,6 float along with my boost return of 13.3 is a big enough spread to allow the MPPT to provide bigger loads through-out the day without going back into boost...but worst case -- it's only another 20 minutes. THESE WORK.. Just note that I use 14.6 V on my top end where many will choose 14.4. See details below for reason why.

My unique case: My battery bank is comprised of 3 100AH 12v in parallel -- one Battleborn and two SOK's. BB "recommends" 14.4 to 14.6. SOK "recommends" 14.6 volts for top balancing. So I use 14.6 knowing it's at the upper end of my BB -- but it's a short time a day due to my settings. Anywhere I have 14.6 you'd likely opt for 14.4

I've listed both in a chart and attached screen grabs of my settings.

High Volt Disconnect(V) 15.0
Charge Limit Voltage(V) 14.6
Equalize Charge Volt(V) 14.6
Boost Charge Volt(V) 14.6
Float Charge Volt(V) 13.6
Boost Char Return Volt(V) 13.3
Over Disc Reture Volt(V) 12.0
Low Voltage Alarm(V) 12.1
Over Discharge Volt(V) 11.1
Discharge Limit Volt(V) 10.6
Over Disc Delay Time(S) 15
Equalice Charge Time(Min) 0
Boost Charge Time(Min) 20
Equalize Charge Interval 255
Temperature Comensation(mv/) 0


Hope this helps!
Jeff
Thanks so much for all the detail.

For what it's worth, in my DC Home app, the Boost Duration for the Li profile isn't dashed out. It's set to 120 min, though I haven't tried bringing that down to see if it will drop to 13.2V. Unfortunately, I seem to have less options that your screen shots, and a Boost Return value is missing altogether, so I have no idea what it is in the User profile. In any case, I'll try that just to see what it does, but being able to swap between Li for a quick top off, or to User for better health is probably going to be what I end up with.
 
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Thanks so much for all the detail.

For what it's worth, in my DC Home app, the Boost Duration for the Li profile isn't dashed out. It's set to 120 min, though I haven't tried bringing that down to see if it will drop to 13.2V. Unfortunately, I seem to have less options that your screen shots, and a Boost Return value is missing altogether, so I have no idea what it is in the User profile. In any case, I'll try that just to see what it does, but being able to swap between Li for a quick top off, or to User for better health is probably going to be what I end up with.
I use the Renogy BT app instead of the DC Home -- it has more settings available....but it can be a bit clunky getting the dongle to connect.
Finally getting my USER profile to work if nothing else made me feel a lot better as I wasn't seeing 14.4 all day every day -- knowing Li really doesn't like being at the tippy-top of the charge profile all day :)

Cheers
 
Could you plese share the complete set of parameters? I'm currently using it with an AGM battery but I have a lifepo4 battery ready to install. Even if my firmware is probably different maybe the same trick could be necessary.

These are the parameter I can adjust:
  • Maximum Capacity Charging Amps
  • Battery Type
  • System Voltage (12V)
  • Boost Voltage
  • Float Voltage
  • Equalization Voltage
  • Boost Duration
  • Equalization Interval
  • Over Voltage Protection
  • Low Voltage Reconnect
  • Low Voltage Warning
  • Equalization Duration
  • LowSolar Current Shutdown
Hey lebowski -- I posted my exact settings above. Hope they help -- the equalization interval not being zero was the irrelevant keys to the kingdom to get my Renogy to actually follow my custom values...Renogy can be so weird. :)

Cheers.
Jeff
 
I use the Renogy BT app instead of the DC Home -- it has more settings available....but it can be a bit clunky getting the dongle to connect.
Finally getting my USER profile to work if nothing else made me feel a lot better as I wasn't seeing 14.4 all day every day -- knowing Li really doesn't like being at the tippy-top of the charge profile all day :)

Cheers
I changed the Boost Duration in the Lithium profile to 10 minutes, but after 12 it was still boost charging, so I don't think this setting does anything in the Lithium profile eve though it's editable in the DC Home app. I did confirm that the Boost Voltage setting does work in the Li profile, which is nice. I haven't yet tested any User profile settings. Trying to get a hold of the old BT app might be a challenge on my iPhone, but depending on what the default Boost Return value is in the User Profile, it might not be needed.

That said, I was thinking more about this, and without any installed solar (yet!) this might not be as big an issue as I was originally thinking since it won't be trying to charge all day every day. I'd only be getting boost voltage while the engine is running or I have portable panel deployed. In the case of the portable panel, if it's out it will be because I want to charge as quickly as I can get out of it, so the higher voltage is of far less concern.

The engine running is slightly different. I wish the ignition signal wire could be used to stop charging altogether since I wired mine into a switch on the dash, but it will always charge if it sees more than 13.2V at the starter battery. The signal wire just tells it to keep charging below that. So I think I've got 2 options:
1) Install a battery isolator solenoid and wire into the same switch for the signal wire to fully prevent charging from happening until I need it, and/or
2) Set the boost voltage to 14.1 - 14.2 and/or lower the max input amps to slow down charging and be easier on the battery.
 
Hey lebowski -- I posted my exact settings above. Hope they help -- the equalization interval not being zero was the irrelevant keys to the kingdom to get my Renogy to actually follow my custom values...Renogy can be so weird. :)

Cheers.
Jeff


Thank you, though I have a different set of parameters. You said you're using the renogy bt app instead of dc home, is it this one?

Edit: I Installed this app, it is way better than dc home (I find the latter bloated with useless features, like the forum integration and the distracting animations).

Edit2: though to set all the parameters you need both apps :rolleyes:
 
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Thank you, though I have a different set of parameters. You said you're using the renogy bt app instead of dc home, is it this one?

Edit: I Installed this app, it is way better than dc home (I find the latter bloated with useless features, like the forum integration and the distracting animations).

Edit2: though to set all the parameters you need both apps :rolleyes:
Yep--that's the one. It is much more functional than "dc home."
Fortunately in my case -- it's all I need as my BMS's further manage my batteries themselves.
Cheers
 
Yep--that's the one. It is much more functional than "dc home."
Fortunately in my case -- it's all I need as my BMS's further manage my batteries themselves.
Cheers
There are two key parameters missing from renogy bt: one is the maximum charging current (that you can set in increments of 10A) and the other is the minimum current from the solar panel (in the "old" version of the DCC50S, as soon as the panel produces anything, even less than 1A, charging from the alternator was limited to 25A, in my version if the panel produces less than a set current, it stops charging from the panel and it can take the whole 50A from the alternator).
One thing that bothers me is that the password is hardcoded and the same for every renogy bt-2 :eek: , maybe when I have time (i.e. never :ROFLMAO:) I see if I can use the rs485 port directly (I think I saw something on github).
 
There are two key parameters missing from renogy bt: one is the maximum charging current (that you can set in increments of 10A) and the other is the minimum current from the solar panel (in the "old" version of the DCC50S, as soon as the panel produces anything, even less than 1A, charging from the alternator was limited to 25A, in my version if the panel produces less than a set current, it stops charging from the panel and it can take the whole 50A from the alternator).
One thing that bothers me is that the password is hardcoded and the same for every renogy bt-2 :eek: , maybe when I have time (i.e. never :ROFLMAO:) I see if I can use the rs485 port directly (I think I saw something on github).
I can see the advantage of configuring the DCC50s to "ignore" the solar if you want the full alternator over just flipping a solar breaker -- which has been our approach since first installing ours a few years ago....meaning our DCC50s likely doesn't even have that option anyway :).
It's also nice to know limiting the amps is available via "dc home" if I ever needed to.

No doubt though -- that hardcoded password is the dumbest thing for sure! Not cool knowing someone could theoretically change my settings....I don't know what Renogy was thinking with that. Other than checking my settings every few weeks to make sure they "stuck" -- I've just left the dongle disconnected.
 
There are two key parameters missing from renogy bt: one is the maximum charging current (that you can set in increments of 10A) and the other is the minimum current from the solar panel (in the "old" version of the DCC50S, as soon as the panel produces anything, even less than 1A, charging from the alternator was limited to 25A, in my version if the panel produces less than a set current, it stops charging from the panel and it can take the whole 50A from the alternator).
One thing that bothers me is that the password is hardcoded and the same for every renogy bt-2 :eek: , maybe when I have time (i.e. never :ROFLMAO:) I see if I can use the rs485 port directly (I think I saw something on github).
Does the Minimum Solar Current setting only show up if it detects solar coming in? I've not seen that one on my menu in the DC Home app.
 
It's also nice to know limiting the amps is available via "dc home" if I ever needed to.

I checked and you can also set it with either the srne monitoring app or the srne solar app (most probably srne is the real manufacturer of the charger and the bluetooth adapter, or maybe it's just another rebadger).
 
I checked and you can also set it with either the srne monitoring app or the srne solar app (most probably srne is the real manufacturer of the charger and the bluetooth adapter, or maybe it's just another rebadger).
Thanks for that. It looks like there are differences between the Android and iOS versions of the DC Home app as mine definitely doesn't have that solar setting. It's also not in the SRNE app. Oh well.

I did play around with the other settings, and can confirm mine will go into float mode as expected. I was hoping I could trick it into not charging at all after the boost phase by setting a very low float voltage, but that didn't seem to work. It also wasn't clear to me when it would go back into boost mode. I tried setting the boost recover voltage above the current battery voltage but it still stayed in float, even after stopping the charge and restarting (I didn't cut power to the unit, just shut the engine off and restarted). Is it a once-a-day thing?
 
mine definitely doesn't have that solar setting. It's also not in the SRNE app. Oh well.

That setting is only for new units (I bought mine last september from the EU website) and it's only available from the dc home app.
The max charge current can be set from the dc home app or the srne apps but not from renogy bt.

Edit: oh, that's with android.
 
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