Will a 20A Rover MPPT work 300W panels and 24V battery system?

[i6power]

Hi, I'm planning to install a 3 x 100W renogy panels on my front porch metal awning, connecting them in series, producing 50 - 60 Voc or Vmp, and feed it to a 20A Rover MPPT (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08CXLHTM9/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1), it says max VDC input is 100V. Then use it to charge a 24V LFP battery (actually 2x 12V 100AH in series). Since the max theoretical power from the solar panels are 300W, and charging voltage will be around 28V, the max current should be around 10A, much less than than 20A max. supported by MPPT.
The product I'm considering to purchase is https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WGW485F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3S4P673KUAQ8Y&th=1 which is a 100W panel with 20A rover MPPT, and then I'll buy two more 100W panels to add them in series.

Do you see any problem with my setup?
Also, for securing these panels on the metal awning, do I need to purchase rails? or can I just drill some holes on the awning and fastening the panels down with nuts and bolts?

 

[Dynoman]

Hi, I'm planning to install a 3 x 100W renogy panels on my front porch metal awning, connecting them in series, producing 50 - 60 Voc or Vmp, and feed it to a 20A Rover MPPT (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08CXLHTM9/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1), it says max VDC input is 100V. Then use it to charge a 24V LFP battery (actually 2x 12V 100AH in series). Since the max theoretical power from the solar panels are 300W, and charging voltage will be around 28V, the max current should be around 10A, much less than than 20A max. supported by MPPT.
The product I'm considering to purchase is https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06WGW485F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3S4P673KUAQ8Y&th=1 which is a 100W panel with 20A rover MPPT, and then I'll buy two more 100W panels to add them in series.

Do you see any problem with my setup?
Also, for securing these panels on the metal awning, do I need to purchase rails? or can I just drill some holes on the awning and fastening the panels down with nuts and bolts?

The Renogy Kit should be good, but don't know about mounting on metal awing, although don't see any reason it won't work.

If going with Renogy Rover 20 get a Bluetooth module so it can be programmed on a phone.

https://www.amazon.ca/Renogy-Communication-Monitoring-Smartphone-Controller/dp/B084Q7SSKB

The Short-Circuit Current (Isc) of the panel is 5.86A so 3 in series panels is the same and that is well within the limits of the Solar Charge Controller.

The voltage of Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 22.3V x 3 panels is 66.9 so that is good a well.

Note that 1 panel will not be enough to charge the 24 volt battery, but the 3 panels should work good.

 

[i6power]

The Renogy Kit should be good, but don't know about mounting on metal awing, although don't see any reason it won't work.

If going with Renogy Rover 20 get a Bluetooth module so it can be programmed on a phone.

https://www.amazon.ca/Renogy-Communication-Monitoring-Smartphone-Controller/dp/B084Q7SSKB

The Short-Circuit Current (Isc) of the panel is 5.86A so 3 in series panels is the same and that is well within the limits of the Solar Charge Controller.

The voltage of Open-Circuit Voltage (Voc): 22.3V x 3 panels is 66.9 so that is good a well.

Note that 1 panel will not be enough to charge the 24 volt battery, but the 3 panels should work good.

Thanks for the response. Sorry I'm new to this but why do you need to program the mppt with phone? Don't I just hook it up once and it will just automatically charge batteries when sun is shining on the panel, and stop when battery is full? In what situations do I need manually programme the charge controller?

 

[Tomthumb62]

Sorry I'm new to this but why do you need to program the mppt with phone? Don't I just hook it up once and it will just automatically charge batteries when sun is shining on the panel, and stop when battery is full? In what situations do I need manually programme the charge controller?

Because you cannot access ALL of the charging parameters on the device itself. They lock up most of the parameters behind the bluetooth/app connection.

For example, the default "high voltage disconnect" on the Renogy Rover series is set to 17v. This means it's possible for the charge controller to send 17v to your battery. If lead-acid, this is bad. If Lifepo4, this is also bad, but the BMS ought to protect the battery. In my case, this high-volt disconnect was happening multiple times a day (15-19v were being sent to the battery) and while my Lifepo4's BMS protected the battery (or at least I think it did!!), repeated BMS protection will eventually wear out the BMS and it will fail. Which in my case, replacing the BMS is a major undertaking and one in which I don't ever wish I would need to do.

So if you get the BT dongle, and you use the OLDER renogy app (not the newer DC Home app), then you can actually change the High Volt disconnect to something reasonable, like 14.6 or 14.7V. But getting the settings to stick (or getting the app to correctly report what is ACTUALLY stored in the device) is another issue with the Rover series and what ultimately was why I decided to ditch it and replace it with Victron instead. Now that the Victron Smartsolar series (bluetooth is built in on these models) has massively lowered their price, there is no reason not to go with Victron instead. The Victron 100/20 (100V input, 20A output, comparable to your Renogy Rover 20A) now sells for $89, free shipping and good warranty and customer service (no affiliation, I'm just a happy customer). Also, the 100/20 model is good for 12, 24 and 48V systems, where as many of the other models are only for 12/24v systems. So if you think you might ever go 48V, the 100/20 model is future-proofed.

 

[Dynoman]

Thanks for the response. Sorry I'm new to this but why do you need to program the mppt with phone? Don't I just hook it up once and it will just automatically charge batteries when sun is shining on the panel, and stop when battery is full? In what situations do I need manually programme the charge controller?

Although there maybe some MPPT solar charge controllers that don't need to be programmed for Lifepo4 batteries and it is just a default, I don't know one.

Typically the MPPT solar charge controllers need to be programmed. For the Renogy Rovers see this message on how to program it. I now suggest the SRNE app, but the Renogy BT app will work as well.

Renogy 40a mppt Li settings

Thanks for the info, I get no heat from the 2 awg wire so that's good for me. Just ordered a 40a circuit breaker to go between the charge controller and batteries plus the Blue Sea 5191 terminal block and 200a fuse today. The 8 guage is less than 2 feet and I did find a little heat when the...

diysolarforum.com

After you have read the message suggest reading the entire thread the message is in for good additional info on the Renogy Rover.

The concept of building a solar system and just tuning it on will not work in my opinion. It will probably require significant programing, tweaking and watching for a period of time. Once it is functioning good and within parameters the system will require little attention. I could of gone months not checking my solar system now that it is functioning well, but I usually check in on it every few days if not every day.

Also it seems most with a solar system are upgrading and improving especially when starting with a smaller system.

As @Tomthumb62 mentioned the Victron MPPT controllers have recently come down in price. They are a Tier-1 product where the Renogy is a value product. If starting from scratch I would certainly buy the Victron. When I purchased the Renogy Rovers they were much less in price, but now there is very little price difference.

https://www.amazon.ca/Victron-SmartSolar-MPPT-Controller-Bluetooth/dp/B075NPQHQK

Then buy 3 Renogy 100w panels. The Eclipse is a really good panel.

https://www.amazon.ca/Renogy-RNG-100MB-Renogy-Eclipse%C2%AD-100-Watt-12-Volt-Monocrystalline-Solar-Panel/dp/B01B3TEM1E

or these a better price, but less output.

https://www.amazon.ca/Renogy-Solar-Panel-High-Efficiency-Monocrystalline/dp/B0BZSN457C

You will need to buy some wire and tools and solar panel mounts as well.

Realizing your are new suggest some more research on your part before purchasing any equipment. There is a ton of information on this DIY Solar Power Forum.

This is a good resource.

Offgrid Solar System Components

Copyright Prowse Publications LLC © 2023 Prowse Publications LLC (www.mobile-solarpower.com) is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program...

www.mobile-solarpower.com

There are many more resources available by clicking Resources at the top of the web page.

And Welcome to The Forum...

 

[i6power]

Because you cannot access ALL of the charging parameters on the device itself. They lock up most of the parameters behind the bluetooth/app connection.

For example, the default "high voltage disconnect" on the Renogy Rover series is set to 17v. This means it's possible for the charge controller to send 17v to your battery. If lead-acid, this is bad. If Lifepo4, this is also bad, but the BMS ought to protect the battery. In my case, this high-volt disconnect was happening multiple times a day (15-19v were being sent to the battery) and while my Lifepo4's BMS protected the battery (or at least I think it did!!), repeated BMS protection will eventually wear out the BMS and it will fail. Which in my case, replacing the BMS is a major undertaking and one in which I don't ever wish I would need to do.

So if you get the BT dongle, and you use the OLDER renogy app (not the newer DC Home app), then you can actually change the High Volt disconnect to something reasonable, like 14.6 or 14.7V. But getting the settings to stick (or getting the app to correctly report what is ACTUALLY stored in the device) is another issue with the Rover series and what ultimately was why I decided to ditch it and replace it with Victron instead. Now that the Victron Smartsolar series (bluetooth is built in on these models) has massively lowered their price, there is no reason not to go with Victron instead. The Victron 100/20 (100V input, 20A output, comparable to your Renogy Rover 20A) now sells for $89, free shipping and good warranty and customer service (no affiliation, I'm just a happy customer). Also, the 100/20 model is good for 12, 24 and 48V systems, where as many of the other models are only for 12/24v systems. So if you think you might ever go 48V, the 100/20 model is future-proofed.

Many thanks for detailed explanation. Looks like I have much to learn.

 

[Dynoman]

Many thanks for detailed explanation. Looks like I have much to learn.

We all started in the same place you are now (at least I know I did). You can learn a lot on this Forum. Read the Forum messages. Once a piece of equipment looks like it will work do a search for messages that relate to that device. Take the time to learn ask questions like you have and when you think you are ready post your planned solar system to get feedback making some possible changes based on the feedback and then plow ahead with your first system.

Also reading the manuals for the equipment before making a decision to purchase will help in designing a good solar system.

 

[Tomthumb62]

Many thanks for detailed explanation. Looks like I have much to learn.

There are a few very long threads about the dozens of quirks of the Renogy Rover series.

At the end of the day, the amount of headache and time wasted learning about all these quirks was not worth it.

I paid $89 for the Rover 30A and $39 for the Bluetooth dongle. $128 total.

Which ironically is the new lower price of the Bluetooth enabled Victron SmartSolar 100/30. It’s the same input/output specs of the Renogy Rover 30A. But the design, function and friggin’ EASE OF USE is a complete different animal on the Victron.

Once you’ve used both, it’s a joke that Renogy sells their stuff for the high prices they command. And they have such constant sales and fancy marketing that you think you’re getting a good deal. Now it’s really truly not a good deal, now that Victron has lowered their prices by 38% in this case.

Maybe Renogy can lower their price to $19 for the Rover 30A, that I would call a good deal and with the headaches. But you still need to read pages and pages of threads on this forum to learn how to navigate the headaches.

 

[JWLV]

FYI: If you are using the Renogy app and the BT-1 bluetooth module, when you enter your system parameters such as charge voltage make sure to enter it as a 12 volt system. Renogy Rover will automatically double it if it is connected to a 24v system. For example, if you want your boost charge to be 26.8, you should enter it as 13.4. I've had and still have, although not in use right now, two Renogy Rovers with both the original BT-1 and the newer BT-1 Bluetooth modules. Also the default password is 135790123 in case you need it. It's in the manual, but a little difficult to locate.