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Will the "Beginner Friendly All-in-One Solar Power System" trickle charge a Tesla? Help!

10ga to a breaker panel/sub-box. Appropriate-sized wire to whatever outlets you require. That’s what I would do. 3000W is ~25A nominal at ~120VAC.
10ga is 30A, 12ga is 20A, 14ga is 15A, 16ga should be left at the store.
 
10ga to a breaker panel/sub-box. Appropriate-sized wire to whatever outlets you require. That’s what I would do. 3000W is ~25A nominal at ~120VAC.
10ga is 30A, 12ga is 20A, 14ga is 15A, 16ga should be left at the store.

Oh boy. No idea what all that means. I'm not doing a break panel/sub-box.

What is a "10ga"?
 
Most importantly, to address my main question: I have a 10ga yellowjacket. Just splice that into the three colors and put into the AC output, right?
 
Yes. Technically, if I understand correctly, I believe the growwhat has a fuse within it - or a pop out breaker- notwithstanding it will shut down on overload if it exceeds its rating of 3000W
so if the grwatt is not being used for any other purpose you could connect directly into the AC with an extension cord that is sufficient to handle the maximum output amps from the inverter (10ga) and if the Tesla draws the stated 20A it should work.
(Ignoring any grounding issues or absence of a breaker or GFCI)
Not how i would do it but I’m funny/particular about some things.
Just splice that into the three colors and put into the AC output, right?
What are you splicing? The 10ga cord (which may only be rated at 20A or 15A due to sheathing materials used and/or the moulded plug end) would go into the growatt’s terminals for AC out, and the tesla NEMA plug would plug into that. No splicing involved.
 
Yes. Technically, if I understand correctly, I believe the growwhat has a fuse within it - or a pop out breaker- notwithstanding it will shut down on overload if it exceeds its rating of 3000W
so if the grwatt is not being used for any other purpose you could connect directly into the AC with an extension cord that is sufficient to handle the maximum output amps from the inverter (10ga) and if the Tesla draws the stated 20A it should work.
(Ignoring any grounding issues or absence of a breaker or GFCI)
Not how i would do it but I’m funny/particular about some things.

Thanks, a ton.

The Tesla can change its charge rate from (min) 5A to 15A. At least, that is what I was doing off my old MPP Solar inverter. I don't need to do anything over 15A with the Tesla charging.

I'll use the 10Ga Yellowjacket extension cord, splice it into the three colors, and put it into the AC output. For now, I'll test basic loads to ensure everything works. Then, as your suggested, the next step will be purchasing a breaker panel/sub box.
 
You mean strip the external jacket I’m understanding now. Stripping; splicing is connecting wires or ropes together.
Oops. Typical. I meant "slice".

I mean to strip the external yellow cover on the extension cord and then separate the three colors (inside the yellow cover).
What Will Prowse is doing in the video.

Screenshot 2022-12-14 at 8.43.14 AM.png
 
Oh boy, so many (newbie) questions.

Why do all 10/3 extension cords say 15a?
You suggested I get a 10ga, which I am assuming is the same as a 10/3, that would handle 30a.
Am I missing anything?
Screenshot 2022-12-14 at 8.58.12 AM.png
 
You suggested I get a 10ga, which I am assuming is the same as a 10/3, that would handle 30a.
Am I missing anything?
The 10ga cord (which may only be rated at 20A or 15A due to sheathing materials used and/or the moulded plug end)
OR it could aluminum

Go the hardware store. A good one that sells SOO cord by the foot. Home Despot does, too, I think. Get 3’ more than you require. Get a couple wire clamps, a 2-1/4 metal ‘handy box,’ a nema GFCI outlet rated at 20A, and the rectangle ‘decora’ style metal cover. Wire the 10ga SOO to the growhat AC out, and use a wire clamp to fasten it into a knockout on the handybox. Leave yourself ~8-10” of stripped ends and follow the instructions to wire to the GFCI outlet.
That should give you a fully-rated 20Amp+ extension cord.

Or you use your derated yellow jacket cord and ignore it.
 
Here is what I'll be aiming to put in during Spring. For now, it'll be a 10guage wire
IMG_1320.JPG
 
Question for anyone who can help.

I gave my PIP 2724LV-MR 24 inverter to my father.
The batteries powered the unit up, but it doesn't detect the solar panels.

He has 4 x 100w solar panels in series.
I tested the MC4 connectors, and it shows 47v. When I connect the MC4 to the inverter, it doesn't show any v or watts.
 
Question for anyone who can help.

I gave my PIP 2724LV-MR 24 inverter to my father.
The batteries powered the unit up, but it doesn't detect the solar panels.

He has 4 x 100w solar panels in series.
I tested the MC4 connectors, and it shows 47v. When I connect the MC4 to the inverter, it doesn't show any v or watts.
47V is very low for four panels in series. Sounds more like 2S2P, unless they were part of a circuit with a battery or PWM controller or whatever.

Most 100W panels are so-called "12V" and have a Voc rating of 21-24V. Four in series should be 85-95V open circuit. That's far above the 2724's voltage limit. I'd start by chasing down the panel specs then testing each panel's Voc independently. They should test near spec voltage, adjusting for temperature and age. Then reconnect and test them again -- in series the individual Vocs should add up. Once all that makes sense I'd start trouble-shooting the 2724.
 
tested the MC4 connectors, and it shows 47v
While connected to the SCC?
You should see ~85-88VOC from 4S

So if 47V not connected to the SCC then there is a bad connection, a failed panel, or something is miswired.

47V while connected to the SCC would be yet still a little low unless batteries were quite discharged.

Read VOC (not connected to SCC inputs) if you have not- and report back.
 
My current set-up has my inverter (Growatt 3000 24v) connected to my two 12v 100ah AGM batteries.
My issue with the Growatt is that it drains my batteries overnight, even in "power save" mode.
So, I think it may be best to have a battery disconnect switch between the inverter and the batteries. Also, it would be helpful in case I need to work on the inverter without power coming in from the batteries.

Any suggestions on what I should use? Hopefully, I am explaining it correctly.
 
Even more problematic: my teacher salary has me cuffed to about 1k
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Edit: I did not realize we were seven pages into the thread when I posted this after only reading post 1.?
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Impossible. Don’t take it as a challenge.

Here are my experiences level 1 charging a Tesla.


To see my system, look in my signature block in Rv build part 1 and part 2.

As an aside, I taught 5th 6th grade for two years. I have been much happier since I changed jobs.
 
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Edit: I did not realize we were seven pages into the thread when I posted this after only reading post 1.?
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Impossible. Don’t take it as a challenge.

Here are my experiences level 1 charging a Tesla.


To see my system, look in my signature block in Rv build part 1 and part 2.

As an aside, I taught 5th 6th grade for two years. I have been much happier since I changed jobs.

That is quite the set-up. Nicely done with the videos.

-Shawn
 
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