atelierminceur
New Member
So i'm building a ford transit custom and i'm pre planning the electrical system to see how much it would cost and if it would be sufficient.
The build is temporary i'm not sure yet of 3 main elements (Inverter, DC/DC, battery size)
1. Use case
Max 1 week at a time to basically to go climbing remotely. I would like to be sufficient in energy for max 2-3 days without driving.
2. What i will be running power wise
Maximum : 70 Ah on the 220v AC and 15 Ah on the 12v dc so a total of 85Ah per day (per my calculations)
A small 100l fridge on the AC at around 30 Ah, an induction cooking and an instantpot with around 35Ah per day max if i cook 2x (more or less need help see questions)
3. How do i plan to charge the battery
- Pre charge it at home with shore
- 2 Solar panels in either parallel or serie
- DC to DC charger
- An EV charging port like this (Does this make sense?)
Here is a list of the components of the system:
The few questions i have:
1. Does my system make sense how i've planned for my use case ? what would be the shortcomings?
2. Why does the 2 batteries 300Ah and 230Ah have the same max load power ? The only real differences are in the capacity basically it seems. The 300Ah is even cheaper somehow. Is the 230Ah enough for my setup since they are both so similar beside capacity
3. With my inverter going at 3000w am i fine with that battery or do i risk a problem running that high an amperage on it with it being a 12v system. Considering that 3000w w the 12v system is like around 250A ?
3.2 is the margin on the inverter good to be sure it wont run like hell ?
4. The ford transit custom i'm converting has an alternator which seems to be rated for 150a so divided by 2 i could actually run a 75A DC/DC charger but i cannot seem to find any. Is it overkill to do so ? Why dont they seems to be around ? Maybe i should upgrade to 60a DC/DC
5. Can i have all of thoses units in the same square ventilated box basically to limit the wire length ? People often say their wire are huge but i don't get why in a van..
6. the ev charging port that i added higher, is it a hazard or not advised to use thoses?
7. I was hesitating going with a smaller inverter from SRNE the SRNE SR-LC-12-3k but i like that the SRNE RVI1230U100 on my diagram can go at 6000VA and basically can be connected to the grid directly so no need for another AC/DC charger..
Last question finally: how can i know precisely without measuring how much would an induction cooktop cost of Ah per day if i run it for 30mn at setting 4 out of 9.
So far i've used lots of online post to eyeball it and its the same with the instantpot and the fridge but i'm not sure how i can know because it depend all on specifics of a model right? So i would basically need to run the fridge and the other appliance for a day to see irl data?
Thanks for reading if you went that far haha
The build is temporary i'm not sure yet of 3 main elements (Inverter, DC/DC, battery size)
1. Use case
Max 1 week at a time to basically to go climbing remotely. I would like to be sufficient in energy for max 2-3 days without driving.
2. What i will be running power wise
Maximum : 70 Ah on the 220v AC and 15 Ah on the 12v dc so a total of 85Ah per day (per my calculations)
A small 100l fridge on the AC at around 30 Ah, an induction cooking and an instantpot with around 35Ah per day max if i cook 2x (more or less need help see questions)
3. How do i plan to charge the battery
- Pre charge it at home with shore
- 2 Solar panels in either parallel or serie
- DC to DC charger
- An EV charging port like this (Does this make sense?)
Here is a list of the components of the system:
Solar panels:
2x Victron 175w solar panels
The solar charge controller is the "SRNE LC2430N10H"
- max input power is 400w on 12v
- 30A with a max load & load power of 100w
orBattery is Litime 12v 230 Ah plus
-LifePO4
- 200A BMS that can support 2560w load power
Battery is Litime 12v 300 Ah
-LifePO4
- 200A BMS that can support 2560w load power
Dc to DC Battery charger is LiTime 12V 40A DC To DC
Providing 40a of dc charging from the battery to be able to charge while driving
Modular DC busbar is the Lynx Distributor from Victron
Basically just a simple but nice fuse holder
Inverter/Charger is SRNE RVI1230S100
- 220v 12v
- 3000w of rated output but 6 VA of peak
- 100A of generator charging current
- <4A at 12.5v in no load consumption
- >92% efficient
- 7.5kg which is kinda heavy but ok i mean inverter weight
- <60db fan at max which is high but i should have a huge margin
The few questions i have:
1. Does my system make sense how i've planned for my use case ? what would be the shortcomings?
2. Why does the 2 batteries 300Ah and 230Ah have the same max load power ? The only real differences are in the capacity basically it seems. The 300Ah is even cheaper somehow. Is the 230Ah enough for my setup since they are both so similar beside capacity
3. With my inverter going at 3000w am i fine with that battery or do i risk a problem running that high an amperage on it with it being a 12v system. Considering that 3000w w the 12v system is like around 250A ?
3.2 is the margin on the inverter good to be sure it wont run like hell ?
4. The ford transit custom i'm converting has an alternator which seems to be rated for 150a so divided by 2 i could actually run a 75A DC/DC charger but i cannot seem to find any. Is it overkill to do so ? Why dont they seems to be around ? Maybe i should upgrade to 60a DC/DC
5. Can i have all of thoses units in the same square ventilated box basically to limit the wire length ? People often say their wire are huge but i don't get why in a van..
6. the ev charging port that i added higher, is it a hazard or not advised to use thoses?
7. I was hesitating going with a smaller inverter from SRNE the SRNE SR-LC-12-3k but i like that the SRNE RVI1230U100 on my diagram can go at 6000VA and basically can be connected to the grid directly so no need for another AC/DC charger..
Last question finally: how can i know precisely without measuring how much would an induction cooktop cost of Ah per day if i run it for 30mn at setting 4 out of 9.
So far i've used lots of online post to eyeball it and its the same with the instantpot and the fridge but i'm not sure how i can know because it depend all on specifics of a model right? So i would basically need to run the fridge and the other appliance for a day to see irl data?
Thanks for reading if you went that far haha