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Help With Growatt 3000TL 24 volt Install

chmiko

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Feb 23, 2021
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Hello all, New to the forum! I recently purchased a Growatt 3000TL 24 all in one and need help wiring it into my FR Wolf PupTravel trailers electrical system via the installed WFCO WF8900 30 AMP Distribution Panel Link. I want to make sure the break disconnect will still work and I can also still use a generator or shore power if i need too.
I have already disconnected and removed the convertor, but just want to make sure I have all my wires going to the right places.
Does anyone have any detailed experience with this type of setup, ie schematic or step by step on this process?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kit/Parts list:
1x Growatt 3000TL LVM-24P all in one Link
2 x Rich Solar 200W 24 volt Mono Panels Link
2 x Battleborn 12v 100Ah LiFePo4 Batteries Link
1 x Voltage Converter Regulator DC/DC DC 24V to DC 12V 40A 480W Link
All cables, switches, fuses and wire I should need
 
Also heres a schematic of my setup up so far. Am I missing anything crucial?
IMG_1558.JPG
 
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Hello, I'm also new and I have a set up to finalize similar to yours but my experience is limited. Hopefully an experience person can help you (and me) out.

A couple of things I would add are a fuse between the buck converter and the bus bar, and wire up a switch to turn on/off the Inverter of the Growatt 3000TL. I have it and the power consumption when the inverter is on is around 50watts plus the fans are a bit noisy. It does have a standby mode but I'm not too familiar how it works, in my opinion its best to just turn it off with a switch.
 
Hello, I'm also new and I have a set up to finalize similar to yours but my experience is limited. Hopefully an experience person can help you (and me) out.

A couple of things I would add are a fuse between the buck converter and the bus bar, and wire up a switch to turn on/off the Inverter of the Growatt 3000TL. I have it and the power consumption when the inverter is on is around 50watts plus the fans are a bit noisy. It does have a standby mode but I'm not too familiar how it works, in my opinion its best to just turn it off with a switch.
I am looking at this growatt system.

Can you wire a remote switch for the inverter?

And o can you leave the system mppt, or ac charger on but just turn the inverter portion off. If not required?

Tha ks
 
I have a 100 amp TOCAS breaker I was planing on adding to the system, so between the Buck Transformer sounds like a good place.
I was under the assumption that most of the the internal hardware of the Growatt was automatic or based on system settings which I have yet to get into, but at this point in my build I really just need to know how to wire the Growatt unit in to the existing RV electrical system via the WFCO distribution panel, I have a basic understanding how it works but need someones guidance that has actually done the same thing, via a detailed schematic or step by step.
Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated
 
I have a 100 amp TOCAS breaker I was planing on adding to the system, so between the Buck Transformer sounds like a good place.
I was under the assumption that most of the the internal hardware of the Growatt was automatic or based on system settings which I have yet to get into, but at this point in my build I really just need to know how to wire the Growatt unit in to the existing RV electrical system via the WFCO distribution panel, I have a basic understanding how it works but need someones guidance that has actually done the same thing, via a detailed schematic or step by step.
Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated
I dont have a growatt yet, so I maybe speaking out of turn here. that is my understanding in simplest form.

With the growatt All in one solution, you will be removing the charger/converter from your WFCO distribution panel. Then wiring the growatt in its place. Kind of like this:
Remove converter charger at the WFCO
Wire the Exterior 30a plug to the AC input of the Growatt instead of the charger converter at the WFCO panel.
Then wire the AC inverter out to AC side of the distribution panel which should give you 120 power to your plugs and such.
Wire the growatt to a 24V to 12V buck converter. then to the 12v side of the distribution panel. which would give you your 12v power.

Ill see if others chime in as well.. Not sure if that makes sense.

Edit.. changed your picture a bit to what I believe is correct. IMG_15581.jpg
 
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I have a 100 amp TOCAS breaker I was planing on adding to the system, so between the Buck Transformer sounds like a good place.
I was under the assumption that most of the the internal hardware of the Growatt was automatic or based on system settings which I have yet to get into, but at this point in my build I really just need to know how to wire the Growatt unit in to the existing RV electrical system via the WFCO distribution panel, I have a basic understanding how it works but need someones guidance that has actually done the same thing, via a detailed schematic or step by step.
Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated

step 0 disable the converter.
Perl:
step 1

pedestal->inlet->surge_protector->growatt->ac_distribution_panel_master_breaker
 
This edit looks great I was confused on how to tie in correctly. Also would a 30 or 40 amp breaker be a good idea in-between the shore power line? Any more ideas alterations to my schematic are more than welcome
 
This edit looks great I was confused on how to tie in correctly. Also would a 30 or 40 amp breaker be a good idea in-between the shore power line? Any more ideas alterations to my schematic are more than welcome
@smoothJoey posted it above. I dont believe a breaker is what you need unless you want to be able to turn off shore power via the breaker. a Surge protector as mentioned above.

Shore power pedestal -----> RV inlet-----> Surge protector-----> Growatt----->Ac distribution panel
 
I am looking at this growatt system.

Can you wire a remote switch for the inverter?

And o can you leave the system mppt, or ac charger on but just turn the inverter portion off. If not required?

Tha ks

You can wire up a remote switch for the Inverter part. Will Prowse did it in one of his videos, I think it was on a MPPSolar inverter but they are identical.

For the second question I'm not too familiar with it but in my limited time with it I can turn off the inverter for it and the mppt charger can still charge the batteries, same for AC charger. I've only done this while the sun was out and it was already charging, so not sure if the entire unit wakes up when there's power coming in from either source.
 
You can wire up a remote switch for the Inverter part. Will Prowse did it in one of his videos, I think it was on a MPPSolar inverter but they are identical.

For the second question I'm not too familiar with it but in my limited time with it I can turn off the inverter for it and the mppt charger can still charge the batteries, same for AC charger. I've only done this while the sun was out and it was already charging, so not sure if the entire unit wakes up when there's power coming in from either source.
Sorry Chmiko... not meaning to hijack thread.

My question kind of revolves around this..

I know the growatts have a fairly high standby power consumption with the inverter on. I will have a kill switch or breaker to disconect the system completely from the rest of the trailer to halt any other parasitic draws on power .. Being my trailer is parked in storage while not in use, Id like to know if the inverter can be shut off completely from turning on while in storage. While the solar and Mppt will keep the batteries where they need to be, without a constant drain.

With a separate component system that is easy to do.. wasn't sure about this all in one how that works.
 
No apologies this is an open forum, this is all good, the more info shared on this subject, the better off we all will be in the long run.
 
@smoothJoey posted it above. I dont believe a breaker is what you need unless you want to be able to turn off shore power via the breaker. a Surge protector as mentioned above.

Shore power pedestal -----> RV inlet-----> Surge protector-----> Growatt----->Ac distribution panel
As far as surge suppressor go would it be something like this inline portable --->Surge sus.jpg or this hardwire option--->Ttocas.jpg
 
As far as surge suppressor go would it be something like this inline portable --->View attachment 39385 or this hardwire option--->View attachment 39387
The one on the left is a surge protector
The one on the right is a breaker.
Not really necessary to have a breaker on the upstream side of the growatt.
Won't hurt though.
Of course if you put one there make sure its properly rated for the application.
I think some of the surge protectors have a built in disconnect switch also.
 
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The one on the left is a surge protector
The one on the right is a breaker.
Not really necessary to have a breaker on the upstream side of the growatt.
Won't hurt though.
Of course if you put one there make sure its properly rated for the application.
I think some of the surge protectors have a built in disconnect switch also.
On my screen the one on the right is the surge protector. ( says surge protector on it) just incase there is confusion, or difference in screens

I believe if you wanted to hardwire one.. this would be it..

progressive industries hardwired surge 30a




download (3).jpg
 
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Hey All, Please check out my new schematic, and let me know if Im missing anything. Im waiting on 1 part and getting ready to start my build this week. Thanks in advance
 

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Also heres a schematic of my setup up so far. Am I missing anything crucial?
View attachment 39288
You need a fuse/circuit breaker on the GrowWatt DC wire to the positive bus. The GrowWatt is a charger as well as a load. Need to protect the output wiring of every power source against shorted wiring.

The WFCO has me confused. What does "Converter Disconnected/Removed" mean. Will the WFCO power the DC loads directly or is the AC to DC power supply what you removed from the WFCO?

The DC-DC buck converter needs a properly sized fuse or circuit breaker on both the input and output positive wires. The one on the input side needs to be located right next the positive bus bar, the output side needs to be located right by the DC-DC buck converter.

Pick fuses and circuit breakers to comfortably power your max load and then pick wires with rated ampacity that is at least 130% above the current rating of the fuse/circuit breaker. 105 degree rated wire makes that easier to do. Remember, fuses and circuit breakers are to protect wiring from shorts that cause fires. They can't do that if the wires are too small to handle the fault clearing current.

Also are you planning on adding a battery monitor? I would. Something that counts coulombs (net electrons flowing in/out of the battery). I am fond of the Victron BMV-712, but since you are not investing in the Victron ecosystem, anything similar will work and will probably cost less.
 
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Hey All, Please check out my new schematic, and let me know if Im missing anything. Im waiting on 1 part and getting ready to start my build this week. Thanks in advance
Should have looked at your latest schematic.

You still need the current limiter (fuse or circuit breaker) on the DC wiring side of the GrowWatt and the input side of the DC-DC converter.
 
Should have looked at your latest schematic.

You still need the current limiter (fuse or circuit breaker) on the DC wiring side of the GrowWatt and the input side of the DC-DC converter.
thanks, I have a 20 amp ANL I was considering putting there, but wasn't sure if it was necessary
 
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