Anybody sell custom bus bars?

[Skypower]

You're paranoid. Eaton purchased Cooper in 2012 which owned the Bussman brand. The exact breaker is on the Eaton website, so there is no need for baseless claims.

I understand the risk of using a 12v or 24v rated breaker / switch with a much higher voltage, but a 48v rated one is perfectly fine to use with 55v and I've been doing it for years with zero issues.

I get it, there are plenty of people with a low risk tolerance who feel safe overbuilding with oversized conductors, name brand bus bars, top of the line fuses, pretty blue Victron boxes on the wall, etc. Nothing wrong with that if it makes you feel safe or you have the cash to burn and want to flex. It makes sense to pony up for *some* components, but I see a lot of people wasting their money.

After doing this for a while and testing many components well beyond their stated limits, my risk tolerance is very high and the tens of thousands of dollars I've saved over the years has certainly been put to good use.

Good to know someone else has been trouble free using Buss brand. There must be many thousands in use in marine 48v systems. I came across across a video that Will made “Top 10 beginner mistakes” and he said not to use that exact model for 48V systems. There’s probably a bad rap for the some of the knock offs that are definitely problematic. The other reason I’m swapping it out is for simple one switch, simultaneous DC power ON/OFF control of both both inverters yet each still has 200 amp limiter. A friend has a yacht and is upgrading to 48V so the old breakers are still going to have use.

 

[Sean Very North]

Good to know someone else has been trouble free using Buss brand. There must be many thousands in use in marine 48v systems. I came across across a video that Will made “Top 10 beginner mistakes” and he said not to use that exact model for 48V systems. There’s probably a bad rap for the some of the knock offs that are definitely problematic. The other reason I’m swapping it out is for simple one switch, simultaneous DC power ON/OFF control of both both inverters yet each still has 200 amp limiter. A friend has a yacht and is upgrading to 48V so the old breakers are still going to have use.

Bussmann do make very high quality products, but the one previously linked to for sale on Amazon is NOT a BussMann made product, its a cheap and nasty copy.

 

[The Good Package]

Bussmann do make very high quality products, but the one previously linked to for sale on Amazon is NOT a BussMann made product, its a cheap and nasty copy.

Yes, I'm sure there is a thriving black market of counterfeit Buss breakers out there. Keep doubling down, it's humorous. Keep relying on stock web photos and disregarding the fact that Buss' design has changed many times over the years to support your baseless claims.

No point wasting my breath further with you, as you've already made up your mind that you can't possibly be wrong about something.

 

[The Good Package]

Good to know someone else has been trouble free using Buss brand. There must be many thousands in use in marine 48v systems. I came across across a video that Will made “Top 10 beginner mistakes” and he said not to use that exact model for 48V systems. There’s probably a bad rap for the some of the knock offs that are definitely problematic. The other reason I’m swapping it out is for simple one switch, simultaneous DC power ON/OFF control of both both inverters yet each still has 200 amp limiter. A friend has a yacht and is upgrading to 48V so the old breakers are still going to have use.

I recall Will saying using that *style* of breaker is risky due to the low quality of the countless off-brands flooding Amazon that people are attracted to for the low price. Most trip well below their rated spec and some don't trip at all (even worse).

I got my start in marine / car audio builds and Buss breakers are solid with fantastic water resistance. I won't even use Blue Sea's version of the breaker since they aren't as water resistant as Buss and their quality has taken a big hit over the past couple of years.

 

[Sean Very North]

Yes, I'm sure there is a thriving black market of counterfeit Buss breakers out there. Keep doubling down, it's humorous. Keep relying on stock web photos and disregarding the fact that Buss' design has changed many times over the years to support your baseless claims.

No point wasting my breath further with you, as you've already made up your mind that you can't possibly be wrong about something.

Do you genuinely believe that the item you provided a link to is genuine quality Bussmann product ?

 

[The Good Package]

Do you genuinely believe that the item you provided a link to is genuine quality Bussmann product ?

Of course they're real. I've purchased hundreds of these breakers over the years from many different suppliers, including from the Amazon link I provided (I'm the reason they're out of stock). The breaker looks exactly like the one on the Eaton website (link below) with the correct rating printed and NOT the generic stock Amazon photo. I ALSO TEST THEM before deploying to production.

Any other questions?

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.CB285P-150.specifications.html

 

[Sean Very North]

The cost of the amazon one doesn't concern you ?

 

[The Good Package]

The cost of the amazon one doesn't concern you ?

That price is comparable to many US distributors.

 

[Sean Very North]

That price is comparable to many US distributors.

Well as long as your product indemnity insurance is happy when they cause an "event" ...

 

[The Good Package]

Well as long as your product indemnity insurance is happy when they cause an "event" ...

You know they've lost the debate when all they have left is "you'll be sorry..."

 

[629658]

You know they've lost the debate when all they have left is "you'll be sorry..."

Completely disagree you’ve lost the debate when you repeat the same talking points. We just chalk it up to another hopeless amateur that refuses to heed good advice. A total waste of time. Moving on.

 

[The Good Package]

Completely disagree you’ve lost the debate when you repeat the same talking points. We just chalk it up to another hopeless amateur that refuses to heed good advice. A total waste of time. Moving on.

There is no shame in wasting your money on pretty blue designer bus bars and constantly being scared of imaginary fires, as long as you feel SAFE. I hope all of that paper and those cardboard boxes on top of your homemade Costco-special battery "rack" don't spontaneously combust! Fire is scary! Your batteries may not be bolted down to *anything*, but at least those conductors are nice and thick for the occasional 50a they may pull!

Irrational fear is the quintessential sign of inexperience, and your tagline is quite ironic.

 

[629658]

There is no shame in wasting your money on pretty blue designer bus bars and constantly being scared of imaginary fires, as long as you feel SAFE. I hope all of that paper and those cardboard boxes on top of your homemade Costco-special battery "rack" don't spontaneously combust! Fire is scary! Your batteries may not be bolted down to *anything*, but at least those conductors are nice and thick for the occasional 50a they may pull!

Irrational fear is the quintessential sign of inexperience, and your

 

[The Good Package]

Moving along no help for you. Another big mouth amateur

I didn't ask for your help, but I *would* ask for a refund after seeing your "rack". Who's the amateur again?

 

[AlaskanNoob]

For the love of God, you'd think this was a political discussion rather than people talking about bus bars.

 

[629658]

For the love of God, you'd think this was a political discussion rather than people talking about bus bars.

Some of us old guys just resent those coming in here asking for help and advice on one hand then suddenly they become the resident amateur expert and start bashing everyone’s ideas and systems. A small amount of politeness goes a long way. Happens all the time. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

 

[CoolWill]

You could buy a standard breaker panel with tin plated copper bus bars and rip them out and fab what you want. And you get a nifty metal box to house it all in.

 

[The Good Package]

Some of us old guys just resent those coming in here asking for help and advice on one hand then suddenly they become the resident amateur expert and start bashing everyone’s ideas and systems. A small amount of politeness goes a long way. Happens all the time. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

This thread was supposed to be about *custom* bus bars and in post #4 you turned it into a "Victron or death-by-fire" informercial. Then *you* started personally attacking mine and everyone else's suggestions for *custom* solutions as amateurish and unsafe.

The reality is that *you* have no business talking about safety when your batteries look the way they do.

 

[AlaskanNoob]

You could buy a standard breaker panel with tin plated copper bus bars and rip them out and fab what you want. And you get a nifty metal box to house it all in.

Thanks, will definitely look into that.

 

[Mithril]

Not sure I understand this argument. Positive and negative terminals are close in just about all the equipment out there. I’d say they’re actually further away in the Victron Power In/Distributors.

In most? of those cases the connection FROM the batteries already has proper OCP/fusing however. So if you suffer insulation failure (abrasion or what have you) a + to - fault is protected.
In the case of building a battery bank, if you're running your + and - that close *before* anything with a high AIC (class t or similar) you're trusting *entirely* on the BMS and or a DC rated breaker for potential + to - full faults. Not something I would PERSONALLY do.

In the case of most battery bank builds (rackmount or otherwise) that I see, there is more significant *physical* separation decreasing the risk of a full + to - fault.

Then again maybe thats just my own personal paranoia of having my setup in a space thats also a work area, so I've got my main battery cables from the bank in "smurf tube" (one for + and one for -, ziptied together) for a 2nd layer of physical protection, even with a fuse right after the + busbar on the bank.