Review my system schematic

I am going to be converting a 7x12 cargo trailer into a camper/travel trailer. We will keep things pretty basic but are going to be using a small 6000btu portable AC unit to cool it off when needed. Mostly for the dog when we cant take her places like in national parks or restaurants. It draws 600 watts at full power, so not bad.

The system consists of MPP Solar 12VLV-MS PIP, 600W solar (I verified with the manufacturer that this would work with solar charge controller in the PIP), and a DIY 2400 Wh LifePO4 battery. Planning on 12 Guage wire for the 12V and 14 Gauge for the `120

Please review my system schematic and let me know if I am forgetting anything or have anything wrong. I think the inverter charger has internal fuses, so I am not sure if I need to put fuses inline on the power sources, but I was planning on probably doing it anyway.

Thanks in Advance.

I'm not sure if that inverter can handle the startup surge of the AC unit. There's a lot of talk about running those small AC's with small inverter genny's like the 2000w Honda and it can be hit or miss. Some people have no trouble but others have problems (depends on the brand of AC). Some have a soft start that uses less surge. If that is a high freq inverter it probably won't work as they don't have much of a surge bump like the low frequency inverters do.

I'd call MPP and ask it it will work....

Looks ok. Many inverter's come with fuses BUT you don't want to depend on those (especially the push button type). You can get a cheap 2 slot Square-D box @ Home depot for < $20 and a 20A* Breaker, set that between your L5:30 plug and inverter/charger. Depending on max input to inverter/charger from outside.

I have tested it with a watt meter and the peak draw was 610-620 watts. I had the same concern, but I think it will be fine.

How well it will cool is the bigger question. It is a single hose design, which is not very efficient, but I plan on venting the intake as well which will make it more efficient. I've tested it some and given the very small space it should work.

Peak draw, as in while the compressor is running and the unit is putting out cold air, or peak as in the split second surge at the instant the compressor kicks on (very hard to detect without a good $$ true RMS multimeter)? The surge on a 600w motor could easily top 1200w or more...

the watt meter shows the peak draw and average. Plus, I have tested it with my battery and the inverter and it was fine. I actually ran it for a while as my discharge source when testing capacity on my batteries.

Not all watt meters are equal. some do not catch the startup current of a motor, very high and short duration spike.

The ones I've seen with sufficient sampling frequency were either self built or $$$$.

Thanks guys. I can test it a few more times, but off my battery with the inverter in this it started up fine. including cycling the compressor on and off over time.

Any other suggestions on my schematic? should I have a disconnect switch for the solar for when I remove the battery over winter?

A switch or polarized plug.

I believe you should have a switch or circuit breaker to isolate the Solar Panels from the Solar controller and another to isolate the battrey from all loads and inputs.

Travelling Robert uses EasyStart to solve AC power surge on startup.

Video Title : RV Upgrade: Installing Micro-Air EasyStart to run A/C