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Running ac from breaker panel to inverter

Dave (Boog)

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May 18, 2020
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Colorado Springs
I have an EG4 6000XP mounted on the wall of my garage about 3 feet from my breaker panel. I need to run 4 wires L1 L2 neutral and ground out of the panel to the inverter which is on the wall. The wire will exit the panel inside of flexible nylon conduit.
I’m having a hard time coming up with a clean way of bringing the wires out of the drywall to the inverter.
There is an existing hole in the wall below the panel I’d like to use if possible.
Any ideas? Pictures?
I’m attaching a picture of my wall with the breaker panel and my sub panel and inverter.
 

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You can run surface across drywall to the other panel with your liquid tite conduit. They make a 90deg connector that will go in the bottom KO of the panel and across the surface of the wall.
Or cut the wall open drill the studs and run some AC cable or conduit and then drywall patch and you won’t have to see the conduit on the wall!
Just make sure you size the conduit appropriately for your wire size and number of conductors etc.
NEC code. 😀
 
EMT in the wall to a drawn metal box on the wall and EMT again from the box to the inverter.

Or square box or octagon box or weatherproof box as preferred for aesthetics. I like drawn.
 
Or if you use a metal box in the wall flush with the wall and a box extension to protrude out of the wall then the in wall might be able to be a straight piece and the outside piece still start parallel to the wall out of the box extension.
 
I have an EG4 6000XP mounted on the wall of my garage about 3 feet from my breaker panel. I need to run 4 wires L1 L2 neutral and ground out of the panel to the inverter which is on the wall. The wire will exit the panel inside of flexible nylon conduit.
I’m having a hard time coming up with a clean way of bringing the wires out of the drywall to the inverter.
There is an existing hole in the wall below the panel I’d like to use if possible.
Any ideas? Pictures?
I’m attaching a picture of my wall with the breaker panel and my sub panel and inverter.
I would open up thw drywall below the panel and the inverter, run the romex through the studs, then drill holes through the plank you have under the inverter and route the romex up into the inverter through either sealtite flexible conduit, or just use romex connectors into the bottom of the inverter.
Staple the romex to the plank.
 
You can do this multiple ways. In my area code says cannot use flex conduit inside a structure. I didn't get an inspection but I wanted to make sure I followed the code requirements. The EMT in the upper right of the photo runs to an EV charger in my garage. I still need to do the sheetrock work here. This wound have been much prettier if both panels would have been flush mounted or both not flush mounted. But it was a mix. And I may move in a few years so I needed something easily reversible.

For the 50a "GRID" lines from my main panel to the 6000XP I ran 1/2" EMT with four #8 wires. These come out a knockout in the bottom of my main panel, 90, and come through the sheetrock in the lower right of the photo here with a few offset bends in the pipe. I still need to do the sheetrock work as the piece is just sitting there.

Next, since I wanted some new inverter powered outlets in my garage, I installed a 4x4 box with two 20a outlets and connected it to the new critical load panel with 3/4" EMT. Then another 3/4" EMT from the 4x4 box over to the 6000XP. The inverter sends power to the critical load panel through the 4x4 box and up into the panel. Since this pic was taken I've now run the solar wires also in EMT out the left side of the photos.

Then we moved some of my critical loads (fridges, freezer, internet, and most of the 120v lights & outlets on my main floor) through a 4" x 4" raceway above the two panels. Per code these Romex wires entered the back of the raceway through 3/4" clamps then the insulation was removed (can't have outer and inner insulation on wire inside of a box). These were run over and down into the critical load box using Wago 221-2401 inline splice connectors.


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You can do this multiple ways. In my area code says cannot use flex conduit inside a structure. I didn't get an inspection but I wanted to make sure I followed the code requirements. The EMT in the upper right of the photo runs to an EV charger in my garage. I still need to do the sheetrock work here. This wound have been much prettier if both panels would have been flush mounted or both not flush mounted. But it was a mix. And I may move in a few years so I needed something easily reversible.

For the 50a "GRID" lines from my main panel to the 6000XP I ran 1/2" EMT with four #8 wires. These come out a knockout in the bottom of my main panel, 90, and come through the sheetrock in the lower right of the photo here with a few offset bends in the pipe. I still need to do the sheetrock work as the piece is just sitting there.

Next, since I wanted some new inverter powered outlets in my garage, I installed a 4x4 box with two 20a outlets and connected it to the new critical load panel with 3/4" EMT. Then another 3/4" EMT from the 4x4 box over to the 6000XP. The inverter sends power to the critical load panel through the 4x4 box and up into the panel. Since this pic was taken I've now run the solar wires also in EMT out the left side of the photos.

Then we moved some of my critical loads (fridges, freezer, internet, and most of the 120v lights & outlets on my main floor) through a 4" x 4" raceway above the two panels. Per code these Romex wires entered the back of the raceway through 3/4" clamps then the insulation was removed (can't have outer and inner insulation on wire inside of a box). These were run over and down into the critical load box using Wago 221-2401 inline splice connectors.


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Thanks for the detailed explanation and the pictures!
 
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