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Renogy Scum!!!!!

Either way it’s 4 banks of cells each with a voltage and a state of charge that can be balanced and an adequate BMS can keep them balanced.
 
The 50ah battery uses 26650’s. I used a 60amp JBD smart, was able to get the lid back on and it balanced nicely. It’s been sitting for a couple of months-here’s the screenshot now…
I know its a little full for storage....
 

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A bit off a side step

But can I ask you guys is it worth buying a Eco worth 100ah battery ????

Ive seen a stonking deal for one @ £175 inc delivery??? (100ah not my 50ah Renogy size)

dont want to fall into the same trap as the Renogy, but at least with the Eco worthy, it uses four block EV type cells
 
I don't remember the delta, but it was considerable, more than 150. The BMS shut down during charging at 13.7 volts. I did balance it a bit with an 1157 bulb before connecting the JBD. I had to change the harness to reach the new BMS, but the 2 negative leads are original.
 
I always stray clear of anything from Renogy... sadly, however, my roof panels are Renogy (or HQST if you will. I know I will; it makes me feel slightly better). But after 2 of their MPPTs failed with no more than 2 hours of use, and their panels needing new diodes after 10 months, I cannot recommend the company.
 
PotusGobbleBottom said:
What symptom did you notice with this?
I have renogy panels and I am very curious about this.
Click to expand...
I have two panels; 175w each wired in parallel. The front panel would only allow 2A out, whereas the rear panel did 4.5A. Upon opening the junction boxes, I found diodes and wires were burning inside. The 15A MC4 fuse was not tripped, even though I didn't suspect this to be the cause. I had inspected the rest of my system's wiring and found everything to be in working order.

As far as how the repairs went, I don't know; my boss climbed the SUV and did the repairs (he's a lot more knowledgeable than I am when it comes to advanced stuff). Although now the panels are producing full power, I don't quite trust them as I did before. Also, on occasion there can be an audible buzzing heard from the panels only when they're pushing more than 8A. I've already inquired about getting a set of replacement panels through a different manufacturer.
 
highwaypirate said:
I have two panels; 175w each wired in parallel. The front panel would only allow 2A out, whereas the rear panel did 4.5A. Upon opening the junction boxes, I found diodes and wires were burning inside. The 15A MC4 fuse was not tripped, even though I didn't suspect this to be the cause. I had inspected the rest of my system's wiring and found everything to be in working order.

As far as how the repairs went, I don't know; my boss climbed the SUV and did the repairs (he's a lot more knowledgeable than I am when it comes to advanced stuff). Although now the panels are producing full power, I don't quite trust them as I did before. Also, on occasion there can be an audible buzzing heard from the panels only when they're pushing more than 8A. I've already inquired about getting a set of replacement panels through a different manufacturer.
Click to expand...
Ok, I am thinking the burning wires affected the output, not the diode. It is my understanding that the diode is only there to prevent your battery from sending power to the panels when the sun isnt shining. I could be wrong.
 
I believe you maybe right... I'm unsure as well. I did notice the next morning I had lost 62AH, even though I had the laptop charging for 2 hours and a USB fan. In all my years with solar, I doubt those tiny loads could drain 62AH lol, so all I can think is power was being sent back to the panels. Now to make it more confusing, my SCC (albeit a PWM) prevents this from happening.

'Renogy: a mysterious brand' (smug face lol)
 
highwaypirate said:
I believe you maybe right... I'm unsure as well. I did notice the next morning I had lost 62AH, even though I had the laptop charging for 2 hours and a USB fan. In all my years with solar, I doubt those tiny loads could drain 62AH lol, so all I can think is power was being sent back to the panels. Now to make it more confusing, my SCC (albeit a PWM) prevents this from happening.

'Renogy: a mysterious brand' (smug face lol)
Click to expand...
Yup!
 
I had a 12v 50aH Renogy battery BMS lock out on me. On investigation, some cell groupd were out of balance and BMS had disconnected itself. Cracked the sealed top case of battery (not easy) and top balanced them using a PSU with 3.5v charge for each of the 4S pack.

Then, I added an equalizer board as below.

After the Renogy DC-DC 30A mppt controller stopped charging, the cells were still out of balance and the equalizer board started topping of the lower voltage cell group cells 2/3 and 3/4. So looks like they were/are using BMS boards that do not correctly balance out the 4 x cell groups. I will be monitoring this battery over the next days to see if my problem has a solution using the equalizer balancing board (cost me £6.89 on Amazon)

equilising board.jpg
 
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