diy solar

diy solar

I am going to try a DIY mini-split!

I was considering a "cool only" unit (lower cost & complexity),
and continuing to use resistance element type electric space heaters for the cold days here.

(Last Winter I did actually get to see frost on the roof, a couple of times, before sunrise!)

But they use 1500 watts each, and are a fire hazard.
So the "heat pump" mini split is what I'm going to try.
The portable oil filled radiators don't have the same fire risk and work much better I find for steady state winter heating. Low is around 600W and can run a couple at that level. They are a little slower if you are trying to get heat immediately in a cold room but for regular living conditions I use them instead of paying for propane for the high efficiency forced air furnace.
 
I was considering a "cool only" unit (lower cost & complexity),
and continuing to use resistance element type electric space heaters for the cold days here.

(Last Winter I did actually get to see frost on the roof, a couple of times, before sunrise!)

But they use 1500 watts each, and are a fire hazard.
So the "heat pump" mini split is what I'm going to try.
Some of the Midea window units can also do heat pump heating down to 41F I think.
 
When it gets that cold here
(during both days of Winter)
we all panic and put on parkas, gloves, hats, long underwear, etc.... brutal......

When I taught high school in coastal So. CA, if the nighttime temps got down to 40-ish, the kids would show up in winter coats, scarves, ear muffs, gloves and furry boots. All very stylish, of course.

It was ridiculous. The few that moved here from actual cold places would show up in shorts and flip-flops, and laugh at them.

Edit to add: I see Brucey beat me to it.
 
When I taught high school in coastal So. CA, if the nighttime temps got down to 40-ish, the kids would show up in winter coats, scarves, ear muffs, gloves and furry boots. All very stylish, of course.

It was ridiculous. The few that moved here from actual cold places would show up in shorts and flip-flops, and laugh at them.

Edit to add: I see Brucey beat me to it.
You get soft, quick. I survived 5 years on Rochester, NY's brutal winters, only to think my compatriots in the PNW were ridiculous when they shut the city down for a few flakes of snow.

Now, I too wear a fleece whenever it's below 70. 😀
 
Great, thanks!
I have all the gear ,(vacuum pumps, gauges for many refrigerants, nitrogen purge system, etc)
BUT
I only have an EPA 609 license, and thus can't buy or work with R-410A.
So unless the precharge compressor and inside coil include a bit of extra refrigerant for filling the lineset, I'll have to go w/ a precharged lineset
version.
You can always get the 608 in the future. I have both with the 608 as Universal. Have had both for about 27 years now.

If you have the vacuum pump, nitrogen tank and regulator, then it is a no contest. If the total line length is 25 feet or less, you will be fine.

Most units come precharged for 25 feet of line.
 
That is one of the reasons for added cooling. There is only 4" of batt fiberglass in the ceiling, R-13?. Concrete block walls, no insulation.
I did put 2" foam board insulation on the doors, sealed cracks and seams. Roof is corrugated steel, covered w/ PV panels, 4" airflow under the panels, so there is convection. But generally, a crappy heat sink!
View attachment 224075
I prefer to install condensing units in the shade if possible.
 
in the shade
The West wall is my only option, and it gets HOT w/ the setting Sun.
I put up this shade screen, it helps.


The condensing unit will be behind the screen, but w/ plenty of space for air flow.
westshade.jpg
 
I put the cheapest window unit from Amazon a Frigidaire 5000 btu in a shed 2 years ago from late June through September it runs 24/7 never shuts off I set it to highest temperature it will go 85F hasn't failed yet other then the remote stopped working. This week we are hitting 117F it's going to be working hard still only drawing about 900 watts. Window units probably more reliable then a mini-split. I remember window AC in my grand fathers place it was there when I was a kid in 1970 still working the same as it ever did up until 2013 when they sold the place long after he passed away.
 
Last edited:
I put the cheapest window unit from Amazon a Frigidaire 5000 btu in a shed 2 years ago from late June through September it runs 24/7 never shuts off I set it to highest temperature it will go 85F hasn't failed yet other then the remote stopped working. This week we are hitting 117F it's going to be working hard still only drawing about 900 watts. Window units probably more reliable then a mini-split. I remember window AC in my grand fathers place it was there when I was a kid in 1970 still working the same as it ever did up until 2013 when they sold the place long after he passed away.
that is because as long as its a totally sealed system with no ability to charge or discharge it can only leak gas if it gets a hole in the system somewhere. mini splits and split units in general rely upon crimps and clamps and connections not to leak and we know that does not work. every time you leak out and need a recharge you are damaging internal components through wear (lack of oil), corrosion, (introduction of moisture) and heat build up due to overwork.

old refrigerators and freezers are the same, I have a standup deep freeze that was made in 1983 that is still chugging along, and as long as it is only opened when absolutely needed it uses roughly the same wattage as its current new counter parts. Now that the makers have experience they build down to make them wear out in planned obsolescence.

I bet if you were to sweat the joints of a split pack, then vacuum to 29" hold the vacuum for about 10-20 hours then gas and solder shut the gas port it would last just as long....
 
old refrigerators and freezers are the same, I have a standup deep freeze that was made in 1983 that is still chugging along, and as long as it is only opened when absolutely needed it uses roughly the same wattage as its current new counter parts. Now that the makers have experience they build down to make them wear out in planned obsolescence.
Although I agree with this quote mostly I have to point out that Panasonic seems to make fridge that breaks the mold so to say. ours uses nearly half the energy of any other models on the market aswell as keeping produce fresher for far longer, a head of lettuce seems to me fine for over a month even in Thai heat.
See below a usage graph.
Screenshot_20240707-083042~2.png
This is a 19ft³ model also so not some tiny thing, though the price is considerably higher than similar spec models on the market.
 
Last edited:
Although I agree with this quote mostly I have to point out that Panasonic seems to make fridge that breaks the mold so to say. ours uses nearly half the energy of any other models on the market aswell as keeping produce fresher for far longer, a head of lettuce seems to me fine for overall month even in Thai heat.
See below a usage graph.
View attachment 226895
This is a 19ft³ model also so not some tiny thing, though the price is considerably higher than similar spec models on the market.
there are undoubtedly some good units out there still. I think most units int he US die due to boards that fry, not the compressor units. though I could be mistaken.

Out current home unit is a National/Panasonic that I bought used about 9 years ago, its total age is right at 10.5 years and it works fine and dandy as well so it and the aforementioned 40 year old deep freeze keep us well stocked.

at the cabin I use a small 180 liter Haier unit along with a 100 liter Haier deep freeze, they both use more power then my panasonic or the GE deep freeze at the main house, but they were cheap to pickup both are over 2 years old and were both purchased used, so cheap enough that if they die anytime soon i will simply replace with something better.
 
The problem I'm facing with a garage DIY install is unless you buy a mini-split that specifically says it's a DIY install the manufacture likely will not honor the warranty unless you pay a HVAC contractor to install it. Some manufactures when you go to register it they require the contractor to fill out the warranty registration with their contractor number. I found this on daikin, and other well known manufactures websites. I did find others who state they are DIY didn't use the quick disconnects like MR Cool Brands. One thing I found cheap Amazon brands the support is poor no US support at the mercy of a Chinese company gets back to you at 2 AM once or twice a week at best.
 
The problem I'm facing with a garage DIY install is unless you buy a mini-split that specifically says it's a DIY install the manufacture likely will not honor the warranty unless you pay a HVAC contractor to install it. Some manufactures when you go to register it they require the contractor to fill out the warranty registration with their contractor number. I found this on daikin, and other well known manufactures websites.
Yeah when you diy install a $600 mini split you don't bother about a warranty.

Or you could get one installed by a contractor for $4500 with full warranty
 
Yeah when you diy install a $600 mini split you don't bother about a warranty.

Or you could get one installed by a contractor for $4500 with full warranty
I was able to find Hessaire sold at Home depot a DIY system starting at $900. Home depot stocks these in the store if you use a HD credit card get 1 year to return it. Plus I checked their warranty support is for a DIY install.
 
I was able to find Hessaire sold at Home depot a DIY system starting at $900. Home depot stocks these in the store if you use a HD credit card get 1 year to return it. Plus I checked their warranty support is for a DIY install.
Only 1 year warranty but 2x the price of one without a warranty.
 
Thailand has the issue that many approved installers outside of Bangkok are useless they rarely test pipework for leaks(vacuum lines but won't leave the vacuum for any time to see if it looses negative pressure), no idea at all about nitrogen testing or using any goop on fittings, install the internal units without a level(leak condensate because it won't flow out) and a plethora of other issues(main one I have an issue is venting refrigerant into the atmosphere) this doesn't just concern AC engineer, almost every trade is pretty clueless so it would be impossible to enforce a selective warranty here.

Most manual labour here earns less than $10 a day so anyone with intelligence wouldn't go into the service industry so it's flooded with low skilled workers.
 
I think the lesson for all of us is that the extra $ one spends on a Mr Cool, Eg4, etc, that is DIY friendly is only partly for the pre-vacuumed lines. Much of that extra is also for warranty issues. If you want a warranty, buy one of those OR find an HVAC Pro who will complete the install (difficult in many areas). Otherwise, take your chances. Life's all about tradeoffs. Make your choices, folks.
 
How do I pick the mini-split BTU size?
The existing "through the wall" Emerson is rated @ 14k BTU, for cooling 700 sq. ft.

I don't know how much of the "14,000 BTU" Emerson rating is from the marketing department.

The building it cools is about 400 sq. ft.

The Schneider solar electronics put a large amount of heat into the room.

If I turn the Emerson on max around 06:00-07:00, it will keep the room in the high 70's all day.

If I wait until things heat up: 10-11AM, the Emerson will eventually get the room into the low 80's.

I'm buying a Mitsubishi mini-split for this room, either a 12k or 15k BTU might do, but which one?
12,000 btu covers 600’ as a rule of thumb. I have an EG4 12k hybrid and cools 500sq/ft insulated space 8’ ceilings very easily with lots to spare, prob could go a couple hundred more with it.
 
Only 1 year warranty but 2x the price of one without a warranty.
I noticed that 7 year on the compressor but they know compressor hardly ever fails on these always the electronics. There is a cheap goodman E series less then $500 of course no warranty if it is DIY installed. It's made by Daikin so parts should be easy to get where Chinese unknown branded Midea manufactured is not as easy to get parts. The electronics are not that expensive about $100 for a control board.

IMO 1 year is better then nothing and at that point you can still buy parts. If you price a MR Cool going to pay about $300 more take the chance on the lower price unit worst case have to buy $300-400 in parts. The problem happened to me is failed right out of the box from a company with poor support can't even call them lot like the inverters only supported through email to China.
 
I think the lesson for all of us is that the extra $ one spends on a Mr Cool, Eg4, etc, that is DIY friendly is only partly for the pre-vacuumed lines. Much of that extra is also for warranty issues. If you want a warranty, buy one of those OR find an HVAC Pro who will complete the install (difficult in many areas). Otherwise, take your chances. Life's all about tradeoffs. Make your choices, folks.

C'mon folks and think outside the box. I got my EPA 608 certification and I registered as a dealer for Pioneer Minisplits (Midea). Do the registration paperwork when you install them. That's all it takes for them to be considered "professionally" installed.

I've had absolutely no trouble getting Midea parts or taking advantage of the 5 year warranty. And everything is done through Pioneers's warehouse in Doral, Fl. I've even picked up orders there from them in-person when I happened to be be doing a trip to the Florida Keys.
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top