diy solar

diy solar

Renogy DC DC Charger w/ MPPT

@Digital DIY Make sure you thoroughly inspect them before your return period is over.

I ordered a pair of Grape 180w panels, and they really lack on quality control and final assembly. Not impressed. I returned them, picked up a pair of Newpowas and the difference is night and day. Would've loved to have supported US manufacturing, but reality is they don't deserve my money.
 
¿Podría usar este dispositivo con un panel solar de 400 W y 24 V en un Fiat Ducato 2016?
 
Sorry to have to post this, but this is how I see the DCCS50 device:
I have fiddled around with the DCC50S with BT-2 dongle long enough now to say definitely that I DO NOT RECOMMEND DCC50S to anyone.
The device with its BT2 dongle does not perform to my liking. This means I cannot live with the
-Inaccuracy of the device output current (reports a much as 4A less output than measured at 400W solar input)
-BT2 sync with app dropping out or disconnecting intermittently.
-Unsatisfactory Manual information on the device performance and setting parameters (definitions).
I wasted my money on this device and have decided to go back to the RedArc DCBC1250D device that has worked in different forms for me(25A, 40A models) in the past The RedArc dose exactly what they claim it will do. Has an excellent warranty.
Sorry to have to make this conclusion, but the Renogy is what it is. A real piece of ............
 
RandyP said:
Sorry to have to post this, but this is how I see the DCCS50 device:
I have fiddled around with the DCC50S with BT-2 dongle long enough now to say definitely that I DO NOT RECOMMEND DCC50S to anyone.
The device with its BT2 dongle does not perform to my liking. This means I cannot live with the
-Inaccuracy of the device output current (reports a much as 4A less output than measured at 400W solar input)
-BT2 sync with app dropping out or disconnecting intermittently.
-Unsatisfactory Manual information on the device performance and setting parameters (definitions).
I wasted my money on this device and have decided to go back to the RedArc DCBC1250D device that has worked in different forms for me(25A, 40A models) in the past The RedArc dose exactly what they claim it will do. Has an excellent warranty.
Sorry to have to make this conclusion, but the Renogy is what it is. A real piece of ............
Click to expand...

I hope to have a different outcome with slightly different requirements. I only really need the BT2 to configure the charging parameters. I have a Victron monitor and my BMS also provides power monitoring. Did you have experience with the DCCS50 as a charger sans the BT2? I hope it works well as a charger. I also purchased one of the progressive dynamic lithium converters before I found out it is really a power suppoly and not a charger. I think I will end up connecting it to the solar input so I can use the charging profile of the DCC50.

Good luck with your RedArc and I hope you are able to return the Renogy gear.

Louis
 
Sgt Raven said:
I went with a KISAE DMT-1250, back when people were having issues with the DCC50S. The size difference between cable and lugs is about an 1/8th of an inch. Is it really that tight in there? You could file the lug to make it narrower, but that won't change the cable diameter.
Click to expand...
Do you know what this black hard rubber boot is on the cable for the remote panel? Has a bunch more cable tightly coiled inside.
 

Attachments

  • kisae.jpg
    kisae.jpg
    118.5 KB · Views: 8
RandyP said:
Wire stress relief at term point ?
Click to expand...
wish I knew, just got directed not to remove it, but no reason given. Am thinking the tightly coiled cable inside has some electrical function but not smart enough to know what or how, lol!
 
Wire stress relief at term point, found in many devices. No electrical function, purely mechanical.
 
RandyP said:
Wire stress relief at term point, found in many devices. No electrical function, purely mechanical.
Click to expand...
But obviously a wire has two termination points and the connectors are the same plastic Ru at both ends. The documentation makes no reference to where it is intended to be placed.... I would guess at the remote end... yes?
 
Any ideas on how to use this device with >24V panels?
I really want to use this device in my solar+battery system, but currently have panels with a Voc of 46.4V that I would like to use because they were free! I thought about trying a simple buck converter, but read that you're not supposed to use those with solar. I'm considering selling those panels and buying lower voltage ones, but I wanted to see if there was a good alternative first.
 
I am a total neophyte but my thought is connect the panels in parallel and use the Kisae DMT 1250 which has a cutoff voltage of 51 volts
 
Mex Rider said:
I am a total neophyte but my thought is connect the panels in parallel and use the Kisae DMT 1250 which has a cutoff voltage of 51 volts
Click to expand...
Thanks Mex! I just checked that out on their website.. although it says the max solar input voltage is 32V I think. Am I missing something here?
1597606575595.png
 
Noah said:
Thanks Mex! I just checked that out on their website.. although it says the max solar input voltage is 32V I think. Am I missing something here?
View attachment 20018
Click to expand...
Yes but it says in the manual that it allows over paneling for cloudy days and early morning and late afternoon sun and it also says 51 volts is the cutoff voltage.... but maybe contact Don Rowe, they are a dealer and knowledgeable about the product. I own one but as of yet my Lifo4 batteries are still in construct/balance mode and as I said I am a real newbie. Sgt. Raven would be a good member to question, he uses the unit currently and is very helpful. Good luck!
 
Sgt Raven said:
I don't think I would put it on the Solar input. I think I would hook it up to the starting battery, turn it on and see the output voltage of the charger hooked up there. Will it charge up to the point it starts sending current to the house battery.

If not, then hard wire a plug to each battery and the output of the charger. Then it is plug and play to charge either of them. That or wire it through a A-B-Both switch.

If it is not already set up with a plug on the output, then I would use the small Anderson Power Poles, the 15-30-45A size ones. The 15/30/45 are for different AWG wire sizes, they are all the same other than that.

My little Battery Tender 1.25A trickle charger comes with a SAE plug and both battery clips and a hard wire end. IMO, the Anderson PPs are a better connector than SAE plugs. Both terminals are shielded when not plugged in with them and it won't short out unless you stick something inside one of them.

https://www.qsradio.com/shop-now.html#!/30A-Powerpoles-bag-of-8-Sets/p/32789863/category=8415250
Click to expand...
Hi there!

I'm new to the forum and to electrical stuff in general. I was researching this topic of where to connect an ac charger to the renogy dcc50s, and my research brought me here. I like the idea of connecting the ac charger to the solar input on the renogy but it seems folks here don't recommend it. Why exactly is it not recommended?

I have a noco genius 10 which has a 12v 10A power supply function. If I turn the smart charging features off and just use it as a power supply, how could it hurt to dump it into the solar input as if I just added more panels and some sunlight every time I plug in to shore power? I only have 2-100w 12v panels run in parallel so there should be plenty of capacity left to add an extra 10 amps. Am I missing something? Maybe some sort of voltage conflict, perhaps?

I'm not terribly concerned about charging my starting batteries but coming through the solar port, the renogy would keep them topped off once my house battery is charged anyways.

I eager to hear what folks think about this idea.
 
Turns out my noco power supply function only works when manually set and there is no memory for it so it has to be done each time I plug into shore power. Not gonna fly as a simple power supply. I'm still curious for an explanation of why it shouldn't be hooked to the solar input. I'm sure there is a good reason. If anyone can be more specific than "the starter battery is better," i'm all ears.

If I have to, I'll do the work and try wiring it to the starter battery like renogy suggests and see if that works. I'm concerned that the noco's 10a limit is going to be insufficient for that approach and it just seems to me like the smart functions of the charger are going to interfere with the smart functions of the dcc50s, but we'll see. I just bought this charger not too long ago and I'd like to not have to deal with buying a new one if I can.

Has anyone had problems just wiring the AC charger directly to the battery? I've read of others doing it but you never know exactly how that works out in the long run and, like others before on this thread, I'm concerned that the two chargers trying to feed the battery at the same time would cause complications.
 
I have a Progressive Dynamic lithium charger which is just a 14.6v power supply. I am thinking about connecting it to the solar panel input as it can be programmed via the BT2 interface so you can set the charging parameters. I believe with the diodes in the panels there should be no issue. I read that someone did this either here on on wanderthewest, I need to find that message string.
 
lmwilco1 said:
I have a Progressive Dynamic lithium charger which is just a 14.6v power supply. I am thinking about connecting it to the solar panel input as it can be programmed via the BT2 interface so you can set the charging parameters. I believe with the diodes in the panels there should be no issue. I read that someone did this either here on on wanderthewest, I need to find that message string.
Click to expand...

Hard to find good info on this.

Using a 16VDC power supply with a PWM charge controller

I have a camper van with an 85W solar panel and SunSaver Duo charge controller, which nicely will charge both the house (RV) battery and starting battery independently.
forum.solar-electric.com forum.solar-electric.com

Found this forum thread that used a power supply through a pwm but the pwm kept trying to draw more than the power supply rating and burnt it out. Not sure how an mppt would fair in comparison but it seemed that the failure could have been a limitation of the power supply. Perhaps a current limiting power supply would avoid that particular issue.

Then after all that, I found this article.

This article makes it sound like I can safely hook my noco genius 10 directly to my house bank and let the renogy and noco sort themselves out when I'm on shore power. That saves me having to buy anything new for now and if I upgrade later would just probably pick up a beefier charger and run some new lines to connect to my starter battery like renogy suggests. Seems like the smart features of the different charge controllers have a way of safely sorting things out so that part is less concerning at least.
 
Installing a DCC50S in a 2019 Sienna. I haven't found any discussion for connecting the IGN wire to the vehicle ignition for smart alternators. The manual doesn't give details and I have no idea where or how this connection is made. Contacted Renogy by email for more detailed information but received a vague reply that it varies depending on the alternator. So no help at all. Has anyone done this? Especially if it was in a 3rd generation Sienna (2011-20).
 
There are quite a few people who have done this on a VW T6 with Bluemotion. From what I can tell, the IGN has a voltage when the alternator is providing voltage. Checkout https://www.t6forum.com , pretty sure you should be able to find some posts where people have done it. I dont know what a Sienna is but if its got a smart alternator it should be the same process, you just need to find which wire you need.
 
Thanks boopz. I looked at that forum but don't really know enough to wade through all the terminology and technical talk, particularly on the T6 which I don't think we have in the U.S. The Sienna is a Toyota minivan. I think I'm gonna have to pay to get it done by someone who knows what they're doing. Really surprised that connecting the IGN wire isn't much of a topic on the forums I've seen. Many vehicles have smart alternators now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Inverter charger for 30 amp RV travel trailer
Replies
16
Views
1K
RV Pilgrims
R
D
Oversized Solar Panel for MPPT Controller
Replies
9
Views
347
Suijkerbuijk
S
P
Using boost converter for charging LiFePO4 from starter battery/alternator
Replies
6
Views
647
Dave911
D
J
Questions about Renogy DC DC Battery Charger w/ MPPT!
Replies
1
Views
707
fratermus
fratermus
M
Orion xs dc/dc charger?
Replies
16
Views
1K
WillySwan
W

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top