I'll watch when I get a chance. But a LFP starting battery will kill your alternator, I guess that is what the Renogy is supposed to solve? I'll watch after dinner...
And I don't know what blueprint you are talking about. I thought this thread was about cable lugs?
A dielectric is a non conductor of electricity which is not a good thing to use when you want to make a good electricial connection. Maybe look at switching to conductive grease which still guards against moisture and the corrosion caused by moisture, while not presenting a potential for impeding the flow of electricial current by getting in between conductors and contacts and acting as an insulator? https://www.mcmaster.com/conductive-grease
Correct, you are not relying on the DE to make a good connection because it's not a conductor at all, it is an insulator! It's all good, at least your keeping the corrosion down. Carry on.
I just watched Will's video of opening up a battleborn battery. Of course the quality of the individual cells are unknown due to lack of manufacturing identity and the BMS wasn't dissected and examined which means the consumer is going to have to trust that battleborn selected the highest quality components. But judging from the case construction and heavy wiring along with Will's positive interaction with a highly knowledgeable staff at battleborn, it's highly plausible that other quality components were also used.
WHAT?? That's not the video in my post...
Oops sorry, I got mixed up I'm sure,but that one was a great video too!
I'll watch when I get a chance. But a LFP starting battery will kill your alternator, I guess that is what the Renogy is supposed to solve? I'll watch after dinner...
And I don't know what blueprint you are talking about. I thought this thread was about cable lugs?
Dielectric grease is non conductive and if used properly and in the appropriate circumstances okay as long as it does not form an insulating layer between & amongst the conductors and the connection. ~ When a manufacturer provides a wire terminal connection on a device it is unwise to take it upon ourselves to modify and exceed the gauge, therefore, potential amperage of the connector as built.If I may lay out The Confusion,
1. This lug is in question.
Apparently the inverter doesn't support 000 (3/0) Ga. or 0000 (4/0) Ga. cables and will need an oversize lug connected to the inverter terminal to accept a bare cable (no ring terminal that bolts directly on).
For cable ends I would have recommended something practical, like a plated, solid copper that would carry the current, but the Original Poster (OP) give details and we had to guess at application.
View attachment 2158
2. GREASE.
The lug above was still in dispute, could very well have been used in a wet/rain/corrosive environment, and it's common usage to use protective coatings on lugs/terminals/exposed conductors.
Oxidation/Corrosion control grease is conductive, you DO NOT use conductive grease where it can migrate (run) from one terminal to another. Period.
(See picture of stacked terminals on inverter & charge controller.
Non-conductive Dielectric grease or other non-conductive terminal protector when multiple terminals are in close proximity.
On copper wires you can 'Tin' the wire, or you can use a little dielectric grease.
As mentioned above, dielectric grease is very low viscosity and the mechanical force of the screw terminal will make a fine connection in spite of the grease.
For those that think dielectric grease will inhibit a connection, I would point out the best quality terminals that crush, mash and screw terminal types come Pre-Loaded with Dielectric grease...
Armoring is using metal conduit, usually flexible to route the wire protected.
Yeah, but to keep critters out, like was posted... steel, or aluminum would be my choice!
You ought to see my vette!I will go with that!
Stainless Steel braided line will stop rodents also, wears their teeth out.
Ask me how I know that...
For whatever reason, rodents won't chew silicone vehicle heater hose available at about any any parts store.
Don't ask me why, but I've had two vehicles nearly completely stripped of insulation and hose, but they wouldn't touch the silicone heater hoses, gnawed on the steel braid but didn't get through it.
So much for storing project cars in a pole barn...
Please let me see if I follow you: Actually, yes these lugs I bought support 4/0, 3/0, 2/0, and 1/0- Are you meaning the inverter won't accept a 3/0 or 4/0 terminal? Here is exactly the lug I bought from EBAY: https://www.ebay.com/itm/231932273027 I am a bit confused, but learning and absorbing like a sponge. I appreciate your patience and information. (everyone else trying to help too!) I will get whatever is the best thing to buy. I am understanding that you think I should either bring the circuit breaker closer to the battery, but how close?, but then the blueprint will be completely different. (I would need a visual to see how to change it. If I am understanding you, you think the positive wire from the battery to the breaker is dangerous being left uncovered. You think I should cover the positive battery wire with something as an option. Am I right?If I may lay out The Confusion,
1. This lug is in question.
Apparently the inverter doesn't support 000 (3/0) Ga. or 0000 (4/0) Ga. cables and will need an oversize lug connected to the inverter terminal to accept a bare cable (no ring terminal that bolts directly on).
For cable ends I would have recommended something practical, like a plated, solid copper that would carry the current, but the Original Poster (OP) give details and we had to guess at application.
View attachment 2158
2. GREASE.
The lug above was still in dispute, could very well have been used in a wet/rain/corrosive environment, and it's common usage to use protective coatings on lugs/terminals/exposed conductors.
Oxidation/Corrosion control grease is conductive, you DO NOT use conductive grease where it can migrate (run) from one terminal to another. Period.
(See picture of stacked terminals on inverter & charge controller.
Non-conductive Dielectric grease or other non-conductive terminal protector when multiple terminals are in close proximity.
On copper wires you can 'Tin' the wire, or you can use a little dielectric grease.
As mentioned above, dielectric grease is very low viscosity and the mechanical force of the screw terminal will make a fine connection in spite of the grease.
For those that think dielectric grease will inhibit a connection, I would point out the best quality terminals that crush, mash and screw terminal types come Pre-Loaded with Dielectric grease...
This is better...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VtfqAym5sQ
