Someone told me to buy these, now what?? Need help with lug connectors

As an example,
Look at the small surface area around the copper terminal bolt hole.
Small contact patch means lowered ability to conduct amperage between battery and terminal, or between ring terminals in a stack.

For lead/acid batteries, notice the separation line in the flattened tubing.
That's a highway directly to the wire conductor for battery acid, and if you don't believe acid will eat it's way right up that separation line because it's mashed too flat, keep in mind that same acid crawled out of the batter between terminal material the plastic case was molded around/stuck to/sealed with...



The large surface (and solid/thick body-neck) of the other terminals allow for MUCH more current to pass between terminals.
These terminals are also hard enough they don't mash out, distort, significantly deform to further screw up the contact surface area.

Silver being a better conductor of electrical current that copper, using silver plated terminals (and solder) makes sense to get your expensive & hard won current where it belongs.
Silver cadmium plating on these terminals, Silver Bearing Electrical solder to make the electrical connection and seal up your terminal connections/tin the wire with.

Something as simple as brass bolts/nuts instead of steel makes your terminal connections more electrically conductive.
You see a LOT of steel, aluminum, etc on consumer electronics, but heavy industrial you won't see electrically resistive and corrosion prone nearly as much.
Electrical connections aren't 'Structural', so steel bolts aren't needed, brass more closely matches the terminal materials and conducts current better.

Take a look at the big, old DC generator equipment from 100 years ago, Edison & Tesla/Westinghouse generators are still in use for subways trains, electric busses, trollies all over the world,
Original brass bolts & copper terminals that still function like new.

I like to say, 'Available' doesn't mean 'Suitable' or 'Optimum',
Spend money on 'Foundation' not 'Decoration'.

This is an example of how NOT to make a cable/terminal connection.
This is pre-made, 'China' generic 'Better' cables...

1. The tubing for the terminal is 'Mystery Metal' (NOT copper).

2. The flattening/punching machine knocked a hole in the tubing creating a super highway for corrosives to enter the cable.



3. The cable isn't soldered into the terminal, mechanical crimp connection only.

4. The crimp on the cable left bulges/pockets to catch water/corrosives and hold them against the copper (?) wire.

5. The 'Copper' wire is an alloy, 13 Ohms resistance per foot.
Alloyed with who knows what...

6. The heat shrink tubing was 'Decoration', and maybe insulation...
It certainly wasn't glue lined, heavy duty or sealed the connection like it should have.

There is a reason I researched wire & terminals and leaned to make my own battery/high amperage DC cables...
Alloyed wire *Might* work for AC, but it's a disaster for high amp DC.
Aluminum/Alloy really has no place in *MY* DC systems, everyone will have to decide for themselves what they want to do.

JeepHammer said:

This is an example of how NOT to make a cable/terminal connection.
This is pre-made, 'China' generic 'Better' cables...

1. The tubing for the terminal is 'Mystery Metal' (NOT copper).

2. The flattening/punching machine knocked a hole in the tubing creating a super highway for corrosives to enter the cable.

View attachment 2187

3. The cable isn't soldered into the terminal, mechanical crimp connection only.

4. The crimp on the cable left bulges/pockets to catch water/corrosives and hold them against the copper (?) wire.

5. The 'Copper' wire is an alloy, 13 Ohms resistance per foot.
Alloyed with who knows what...

6. The heat shrink tubing was 'Decoration', and maybe insulation...
It certainly wasn't glue lined, heavy duty or sealed the connection like it should have.

There is a reason I researched wire & terminals and leaned to make my own battery/high amperage DC cables...
Alloyed wire *Might* work for AC, but it's a disaster for high amp DC.
Aluminum/Alloy really has no place in *MY* DC systems, everyone will have to decide for themselves what they want to do.

Click to expand...

I will re-read your posts tomorrow. What do you suggest buying and where? There aren't brass terminals are there?

JeepHammer said:

I've got 3 aluminum engine timing covers with water pump bolts twisted off in them right now in the shop, the flowing coolant increases the galvanic issues and bolts ALWAYS corrode solidly into these timing/pump covers.
While it's a steady income stream for me, it takes very particular tools to repair those covers, which are for 'Vintage' engines not made since 1990.

Click to expand...

Sorry off-topic...

Working on aluminum boat blocks over the decades I became pretty good at drilling and tapping snapped off steel bolts. But over the past few years I've been using acid more and more, ever try the stuff? A few years ago I snapped a hardened steel tap deep in a blind hole that was impossible to get to, or drill through...I thought I was screwed. I ended up using a product called Tap-X, which is just a combo of readily available acids that eat carbon steel and leave aluminum unharmed. Since then I've used it to remove some steel bolts on delicate jobs where I wanted to leave the original threads intact- I just drill a hole through the snapped bolt and feed acid in every couple hours and the bolt falls out after a day or two. You may have tried it already, but if not add some to your toolbox!

Santa said:

I will re-read your posts tomorrow. What do you suggest buying and where? There aren't brass terminals are there?

Click to expand...

The battery will probably have a 3/8" hole.
3/8" brass bolts & nuts are common from any online retailer or big box store bolt & nut rack.

This will be an "It Depends" situation, with VARIABLES...

1. Battery Box.
With a battery box in a trailer, camper, RV,
The battery CABLE will have to come through a wall, floor etc.
That means ARMOR/Protecting for a cables that will be there FOR YEARS,
Will have vibration, sharp edges etc to contend with.

I personally would use a 3/8" hole ('eye') ring terminal,
And I would use a heavy lug so it lived longer in UN-Heated/No Climate controlled space (Battery Box).

I would use something like this in the battery/battery box end of that cable...


https://www.electricalhub.com/generic--tinned-copper-heavy-wall-lug-2

This one is a blind socket, no place for moister or acid to creep into the cable from the battery end,
Heavy plated solid copper lug body so repeated cleaning won't wear the terminal into junk,
And it's tin plate, so as well as crimped, it can easily be soldered as well as crimped.
(Crimp = Mechanical Connection.... Solder = Electrical Connection & Environment Protection)

I would also seal up anything outside the climate control with Glue Lined Heat Shrink, using Red & Black to denote positive & negative connections.


https://www.electricalhub.com/3m/polyolefin-dual-wall-heat-shrink-tubing/eps-300-3-4-48-red


https://www.electricalhub.com/3m/polyolefin-dual-wall-heat-shrink-tubing/eps-300-3-4-48-black

Since the LiFePo4 batteries don't have ACID corrosion problems at the terminals,
BUT,
Those 3/0 or 4/0 cables are stupid expensive, good solid heavy terminals crimped/soldered & heat shrink *Should* live as long as the vehicle...

--------------

2. Batteries inside the vehicle (mostly dry, climate controlled).
I never recommend batteries in a living compartment, I'm only doing this because I don't know specifically what you intend to do...

I would still use brass bolts/nuts at the battery connections.
Even more important with thinner, lighter duty lug terminal ends.

This is what I would use and the 'eye' is a 3/8" hole for the battery connections.
(The rest of the system *Probably* won't have 3/8" bolts, oversize holes are connection surface area lost)

3. At circuit breakers, inverter, charge controller, measure the bolt/stud sizes and order terminals with the correct size 'Eye' holes.
Oversize holes are wasted contact area.

I often buy smaller 'Eye'/bolt hole sizes and drill them out to what's needed so I don't have to stock as many types/sizes.
Drilling is perfectly acceptable, although in hard copper/brass/bronze it can be difficult.
(If you want to see how hard brass can be, try drilling a pre '82 penny!)

As shown in the diagram the OP posted links to, the bare copper terminals are acceptable INSIDE climate controlled conditions.
If the camper/trailer/RV sits unheated for long periods, it's simply isn't that expensive to use plated terminals.

I still recommend you crimp, solder and color code heat shrink.
Leave some extra slack in your cables, 3"-4" or so, this allows you to replace terminals when necessary without scrapping your expensive cables.

4. Reducing connections and common sense.

Take a look at the inverter Negative Cable in this picture.
It connects to battery, up through buss bar, then through buss bar, then another cable to inverter....

Battery terminal --->Cable Terminal ---> Cable to buss bar terminal --->Buss Bar to cable terminal --->Cable to inverter Terminal On Cable --->Inverter Terminal.



Anyone see anything wrong with this? 4 bolted together terminal connection points on one high amperage cable...

Using a 3/0 cable, and a 4/0 ring terminal at the inverter end, simply slip the 3/0 AND 4 Ga. Cable into the lug, crimp both wires at the same time and crimp.
This gives you a direct, solid connection of the 4 Ga. Cable to charge controller/battery cable without the buss bar & its connections. Buss bar completely elminated.

*IF* you want to tap the negative cable for 12 Volts,
The Charge Controller negative cable (4 Ga.)
Simply slip a 10 Ga. wire in with the 4 Ga. and crimp.
Now you have a 10 Ga. Negative for 12 volt appliances inside the camper/RV/Trailer.
All directly connected to the battery negative source by solid connections instead of stacked ring terminals.

MUCH cleaner install without all the short start-stop wiring.

If you are unsure how well you can attach cable ends don't be ashamed to buy the pre-made cables. I recently needed some jumpers to series some batts so I ordered these that seem good enough quality. I only needed a foot of 2 gauge each but they come in all sizes and lengths. Sometimes you can't build them cheaper than buying...

JeepHammer said:

Silver being a better conductor of electrical current that copper, using silver plated terminals (and solder) makes sense to get your expensive & hard won current where it belongs.
Silver cadmium plating on these terminals, Silver Bearing Electrical solder to make the electrical connection and seal up your terminal connections/tin the wire with.

Click to expand...

I would be quite surprised if the plating is silver. Most common coating is tin...

JeepHammer said:

As an example,
Look at the small surface area around the copper terminal bolt hole.
Small contact patch means lowered ability to conduct amperage between battery and terminal, or between ring terminals in a stack.

For lead/acid batteries, notice the separation line in the flattened tubing.
That's a highway directly to the wire conductor for battery acid, and if you don't believe acid will eat it's way right up that separation line because it's mashed too flat, keep in mind that same acid crawled out of the batter between terminal material the plastic case was molded around/stuck to/sealed with...

View attachment 2186

The large surface (and solid/thick body-neck) of the other terminals allow for MUCH more current to pass between terminals.
These terminals are also hard enough they don't mash out, distort, significantly deform to further screw up the contact surface area.

Silver being a better conductor of electrical current that copper, using silver plated terminals (and solder) makes sense to get your expensive & hard won current where it belongs.
Silver cadmium plating on these terminals, Silver Bearing Electrical solder to make the electrical connection and seal up your terminal connections/tin the wire with.

Something as simple as brass bolts/nuts instead of steel makes your terminal connections more electrically conductive.
You see a LOT of steel, aluminum, etc on consumer electronics, but heavy industrial you won't see electrically resistive and corrosion prone nearly as much.
Electrical connections aren't 'Structural', so steel bolts aren't needed, brass more closely matches the terminal materials and conducts current better.

Take a look at the big, old DC generator equipment from 100 years ago, Edison & Tesla/Westinghouse generators are still in use for subways trains, electric busses, trollies all over the world,
Original brass bolts & copper terminals that still function like new.

I like to say, 'Available' doesn't mean 'Suitable' or 'Optimum',
Spend money on 'Foundation' not 'Decoration'.

Click to expand...

Will just updated the blueprint here: https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/simplified-400-watt-fewer-wires-and-alternator-charging.html I appreciate all the time and effort you and everyone posted here. EDITED

Supervstech said:

I would be quite surprised if the plating is silver. Most common coating is tin...

Click to expand...

SURPRISE!
I buy my rough service terminals specifically because they are silver cadmium plate over solid copper.
It's why my lead/acid battery terminals lasted as long as they did and why I used them.

JeepHammer said:

SURPRISE!
I buy my rough service terminals specifically because they are silver cadmium plate over solid copper.
It's why my lead/acid battery terminals lasted as long as they did and why I used them.

Click to expand...

Can you supply a vendor to get them for this set up? (in case you didn't see, Will updated the blueprint today.)

Updated.

This guy just like to make a lot of little cables...

Santa said:

Can you supply a vendor to get them for this set up? (in case you didn't see, Will updated the blueprint today.)

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I posted links to heavy lugs & heat shrink in post 55...

JeepHammer said:

Updated.

This guy just like to make a lot of little cables...

I'm pretty sure I posted links to heavy lugs & heat shrink in post 55...

Click to expand...

Yes, I see the lugs in post 55 are tinned copper not silver. I will ask you something on that post. p.s. how would you do it differently?

Santa said:

Yes, I see the lugs in post 55 are tinned copper not silver. I will ask you something on that post. p.s. how would you do it differently?

Click to expand...

Silver are hatefully expensive (like $30 each) and I only use them when it's lead/acid batteries that aren't climate controlled.
With the LiFePo4 tinned will work every bit as well.
No sense in wasting money when you don't have the most extreme conditions.

Like I said, if the battery is outside and your cables go through walls or floors, you don't want to pull the cables or try and put new ends on in a battery box, so heavy lugs prevent that.
You don't have acid issues, so silver isn't needed, tinned works fine.

JeepHammer said:

Updated.

This guy just like to make a lot of little cables...

I'm pretty sure I posted links to heavy lugs & heat shrink in post 55...

Click to expand...

But those are tinned copper not silver

JeepHammer said:

3. At circuit breakers, inverter, charge controller, measure the bolt/stud sizes and order terminals with the correct size 'Eye' holes.
Oversize holes are wasted contact area.

I often buy smaller 'Eye'/bolt hole sizes and drill them out to what's needed so I don't have to stock as many types/sizes.
Drilling is perfectly acceptable, although in hard copper/brass/bronze it can be difficult.
(If you want to see how hard brass can be, try drilling a pre '82 penny!)

As shown in the diagram the OP posted links to, the bare copper terminals are acceptable INSIDE climate controlled conditions.
If the camper/trailer/RV sits unheated for long periods, it's simply isn't that expensive to use plated terminals.

I still recommend you crimp, solder and color code heat shrink.
Leave some extra slack in your cables, 3"-4" or so, this allows you to replace terminals when necessary without scrapping your expensive cables.

Click to expand...

JeepHammer said:

The battery will probably have a 3/8" hole.
3/8" brass bolts & nuts are common from any online retailer or big box store bolt & nut rack.

This will be an "It Depends" situation, with VARIABLES...

1. Battery Box.
With a battery box in a trailer, camper, RV,
The battery CABLE will have to come through a wall, floor etc.
That means ARMOR/Protecting for a cables that will be there FOR YEARS,
Will have vibration, sharp edges etc to contend with.

I personally would use a 3/8" hole ('eye') ring terminal,
And I would use a heavy lug so it lived longer in UN-Heated/No Climate controlled space (Battery Box).

I would use something like this in the battery/battery box end of that cable...

https://www.electricalhub.com/generic--tinned-copper-heavy-wall-lug-2

This one is a blind socket, no place for moister or acid to creep into the cable from the battery end,
Heavy plated solid copper lug body so repeated cleaning won't wear the terminal into junk,
And it's tin plate, so as well as crimped, it can easily be soldered as well as crimped.
(Crimp = Mechanical Connection.... Solder = Electrical Connection & Environment Protection)

I would also seal up anything outside the climate control with Glue Lined Heat Shrink, using Red & Black to denote positive & negative connections.

https://www.electricalhub.com/3m/polyolefin-dual-wall-heat-shrink-tubing/eps-300-3-4-48-red

https://www.electricalhub.com/3m/polyolefin-dual-wall-heat-shrink-tubing/eps-300-3-4-48-black

Since the LiFePo4 batteries don't have ACID corrosion problems at the terminals,
BUT,
Those 3/0 or 4/0 cables are stupid expensive, good solid heavy terminals crimped/soldered & heat shrink *Should* live as long as the vehicle...

--------------

2. Batteries inside the vehicle (mostly dry, climate controlled).
I never recommend batteries in a living compartment, I'm only doing this because I don't know specifically what you intend to do...

I would still use brass bolts/nuts at the battery connections.
Even more important with thinner, lighter duty lug terminal ends.

This is what I would use and the 'eye' is a 3/8" hole for the battery connections.
(The rest of the system *Probably* won't have 3/8" bolts, oversize holes are connection surface area lost)

Click to expand...

OK, so let me see if I understand you JeepHammer: (By the way, I will be building this at home, and plan to go full-time on the road with it VERY soon - if I can get all the parts. As it is the Renogy controller is on back order until early Dec. after they took my order they decided to tell me...before that I ordered it on Amazon and they cancelled most of my stuff without a reason.)

Any way, I believe I will start with the 2 batteries inside the vehicle where I will be living (later hook up the starter battery when I can get in-person help.) The batteries have 5/16" holes. Do I need to get battery boxes? Do you recommend a container on a hitch outside instead? Why don't you recommend them in living quarters?

Next, I have only done minor soldering. I don't have the tools now. Could I just crimp them until I learn how to properly solder them? Is it just the battery terminals that need to be soldered or all the terminal ends? Do you know of a good video to show me the correct way to solder them? And, can you recommend what supplies and where?

I like the idea to leave 3-4 inches on the cables. Is that only for the battery to inverter cables? thank you for your time and knowledge.

OK, so let me see if I understand you JeepHammer: (By the way, I will be building this at home, and plan to go full-time on the road with it VERY soon - if I can get all the parts.

Click to expand...

Have you checked the local welding shop?
Some NAPA stores have welding supplies and can show you their heaviest terminals, and the local NAPA stores & welding shop will crimp your terminal ends on if you buy the biggest part of your supplies there.

As it is the Renogy controller is on back order until early Dec. after they took my order they decided to tell me...before that I ordered it on Amazon and they cancelled most of my stuff without a reason.

Click to expand...

Amazon... Go figure

Any way, I believe I will start with the 2 batteries inside the vehicle where I will be living (later hook up the starter battery when I can get in-person help.) The batteries have 5/16" holes. Do I need to get battery boxes? Do you recommend a container on a hitch outside instead? Why don't you recommend them in living quarters?

Click to expand...

Enormous energy source when batteries are charged.
Two batteries are enough power to do stick welding off of, so they will easily start a fire if anything g shorts the terminals.
For that reason, most certainly have a battery box with a cover.

If you link to the source, simply find 5/16" x 3/0 or 4/0 and use 5/16" brass bolts/nuts.

Next, I have only done minor soldering.
I don't have the tools now.
Could I just crimp them until I learn how to properly solder them?

Click to expand...

Yes.
Just use tape on terminals until you feel confident enough to solder and heat shrink.
DO find Red tape for the positive terminals.

Those 'Crack Head' jet torch lighters are cheap and will do the smaller terminals reasonably well.

Is it just the battery terminals that need to be soldered or all the terminal ends?
Do you know of a good video to show me the correct way to solder them?
And, can you recommend what supplies and where?

Click to expand...

Non-acid flux, silver bearing solder (no acid core), and a torch.
Heat the LUG (not the cable!)
Tilt the cable with crimped terminal down at about 45° angle so solder doesn't run up the cable,
Use the solder and poke the wire bundle until solder flows.

If you heat the lug and let heat transfer, not aiming the torch up, you won't burn the insulation.
When the solder starts creeping up the wire bundle, stop.
The solder will wick up the cable and make it stiff.

BoobTube should have a bunch of soldering videos, you will just have to pick the heavy cable ones out.

I like the idea to leave 3-4 inches on the cables.
Is that only for the battery cables?

Click to expand...

I leave a little slack in all cables, cables are expensive, expensive enough when one gets a little damage I fix it.
A rub on the insulation I slip some heat shrink over the cable and fix the issue.
I have a bad end, I change the end.

Small wires not so much, just too cheap/easy to make a new one most times.

thank you for your time and knowledge.

Click to expand...

You learn by doing,
Browse through the online catalogs to see what's available, and think about how it will work in your application.
Search battery cable terminals and see what pops up, browse...

A crack head torch lighter and a roll of solder, practice soldering scrap pieces of wire together so you get the hang of copper soldering.

Silver Bearing Electrical solder isn't that expensive, any clean copper wire will do for a little practice.
Simply don't use the torch to melt the solder, heat the lug or in the case of splices, the wire.
Lift heat and poke with solder... When it flows fill the joint and stop.

A shiny, smooth joint is a good joint.
A lumpy joint was a little too cold.
A dull finish on the joint was too hot.
Stay out of the wind!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flo-Temp-L...2ad14a95f5:g:t4YAAOSwefldOzxB&redirect=mobile

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BernzOmati...2ad9538ed6:g:ltYAAOSwoGVdzA-l&redirect=mobile

JeepHammer said:

Have you checked the local welding shop?
Some NAPA stores have welding supplies and can show you their heaviest terminals, and the local NAPA stores & welding shop will crimp your terminal ends on if you buy the biggest part of your supplies there.



Amazon... Go figure



Enormous energy source when batteries are charged.
Two batteries are enough power to do stick welding off of, so they will easily start a fire if anything g shorts the terminals.
For that reason, most certainly have a battery box with a cover.

If you link to the source, simply find 5/16" x 3/0 or 4/0 and use 5/16" brass bolts/nuts.



Yes.
Just use tape on terminals until you feel confident enough to solder and heat shrink.
DO find Red tape for the positive terminals.

Those 'Crack Head' jet torch lighters are cheap and will do the smaller terminals reasonably well.



Non-acid flux, silver bearing solder (no acid core), and a torch.
Heat the LUG (not the cable!)
Tilt the cable with crimped terminal down at about 45° angle so solder doesn't run up the cable,
Use the solder and poke the wire bundle until solder flows.

If you heat the lug and let heat transfer, not aiming the torch up, you won't burn the insulation.
When the solder starts creeping up the wire bundle, stop.
The solder will wick up the cable and make it stiff.

BoobTube should have a bunch of soldering videos, you will just have to pick the heavy cable ones out.



I leave a little slack in all cables, cables are expensive, expensive enough when one gets a little damage I fix it.
A rub on the insulation I slip some heat shrink over the cable and fix the issue.
I have a bad end, I change the end.

Small wires not so much, just too cheap/easy to make a new one most times.



You learn by doing,
Browse through the online catalogs to see what's available, and think about how it will work in your application.
Search battery cable terminals and see what pops up, browse...

A crack head torch lighter and a roll of solder, practice soldering scrap pieces of wire together so you get the hang of copper soldering.

Silver Bearing Electrical solder isn't that expensive, any clean copper wire will do for a little practice.
Simply don't use the torch to melt the solder, heat the lug or in the case of splices, the wire.
Lift heat and poke with solder... When it flows fill the joint and stop.

A shiny, smooth joint is a good joint.
A lumpy joint was a little too cold.
A dull finish on the joint was too hot.
Stay out of the wind!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flo-Temp-L...2ad14a95f5:g:t4YAAOSwefldOzxB&redirect=mobile

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BernzOmati...2ad9538ed6:g:ltYAAOSwoGVdzA-l&redirect=mobile

Click to expand...

That is good to know about NAPA. I will check them out.

Do you recommend all the terminals be welded or just the heavy duty ones?

I have red duct tape.

I just found some rosin core solder from Walmart I never used. (don't have the iron though.) I will practice on some wires.

What is the difference between the 2 different solder you linked?

You mean to use the crack-head torch on the heat shrink? And a propane torch on the solder right?

Crack head torch to solder with. Butane burns very clean so it's good even for little connectors.
Just heat the connector and not the wire, unless you are learning to solder/splice on wire.

No difference in the solder except price and diameter of the solder.
It can come very thin, not much bigger than a fat hair all the way up to bars, just depends on what your are soldering.

Don't confuse silver solder that takes an oxygen torch and silver bearing electrical solder you can melt with a just torch lighter.

OK thanks! My butane camp stove wold probably be too much fire? Where did you learn all this JeepHammer?

JeepHammer said:

Have you checked the local welding shop?
Some NAPA stores have welding supplies and can show you their heaviest terminals, and the local NAPA stores & welding shop will crimp your terminal ends on if you buy the biggest part of your supplies there.



Amazon... Go figure



Enormous energy source when batteries are charged.
Two batteries are enough power to do stick welding off of, so they will easily start a fire if anything g shorts the terminals.
For that reason, most certainly have a battery box with a cover.

If you link to the source, simply find 5/16" x 3/0 or 4/0 and use 5/16" brass bolts/nuts.



Yes.
Just use tape on terminals until you feel confident enough to solder and heat shrink.
DO find Red tape for the positive terminals.

Those 'Crack Head' jet torch lighters are cheap and will do the smaller terminals reasonably well.



Non-acid flux, silver bearing solder (no acid core), and a torch.
Heat the LUG (not the cable!)
Tilt the cable with crimped terminal down at about 45° angle so solder doesn't run up the cable,
Use the solder and poke the wire bundle until solder flows.

If you heat the lug and let heat transfer, not aiming the torch up, you won't burn the insulation.
When the solder starts creeping up the wire bundle, stop.
The solder will wick up the cable and make it stiff.

BoobTube should have a bunch of soldering videos, you will just have to pick the heavy cable ones out.



I leave a little slack in all cables, cables are expensive, expensive enough when one gets a little damage I fix it.
A rub on the insulation I slip some heat shrink over the cable and fix the issue.
I have a bad end, I change the end.

Small wires not so much, just too cheap/easy to make a new one most times.



You learn by doing,
Browse through the online catalogs to see what's available, and think about how it will work in your application.
Search battery cable terminals and see what pops up, browse...

A crack head torch lighter and a roll of solder, practice soldering scrap pieces of wire together so you get the hang of copper soldering.

Silver Bearing Electrical solder isn't that expensive, any clean copper wire will do for a little practice.
Simply don't use the torch to melt the solder, heat the lug or in the case of splices, the wire.
Lift heat and poke with solder... When it flows fill the joint and stop.

A shiny, smooth joint is a good joint.
A lumpy joint was a little too cold.
A dull finish on the joint was too hot.
Stay out of the wind!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flo-Temp-L...2ad14a95f5:g:t4YAAOSwefldOzxB&redirect=mobile

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BernzOmati...2ad9538ed6:g:ltYAAOSwoGVdzA-l&redirect=mobile

Click to expand...

By the way, many thanks for all your help!!! I appreciate it.

JeepHammer said:

Crack head torch to solder with. Butane burns very clean so it's good even for little connectors.
Just heat the connector and not the wire, unless you are learning to solder/splice on wire.

No difference in the solder except price and diameter of the solder.
It can come very thin, not much bigger than a fat hair all the way up to bars, just depends on what your are soldering.

Don't confuse silver solder that takes an oxygen torch and silver bearing electrical solder you can melt with a just torch lighter.

Click to expand...

I have recently been told by a highly qualified engineer... (not me!) soldering a terminal end is inferior to a solid crimp, and weatherization... a proper hydrolic compression crimp, sealed with watertight shrink is the absolute best. Also, soldering the cable can result in brittle wires that break...
I do not know one way or the other... and the brittle wires, could be from overtinning, or some other error in the soldering process... but it is what he said, and I have had it repeated by inspectors as well...

Supervstech said:

I have recently been told by a highly qualified engineer... (not me!) soldering a terminal end is inferior to a solid crimp, and weatherization... a proper hydrolic compression crimp, sealed with watertight shrink is the absolute best. Also, soldering the cable can result in brittle wires that break...
I do not know one way or the other... and the brittle wires, could be from overtinning, or some other error in the soldering process... but it is what he said, and I have had it repeated by inspectors as well...

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Well I heard to not solder before, but I know nothing. Maybe we should start a thread "To solder or not to solder"?? A hydraulic compression crimp - would that be something done at NAPPA parts?

Santa said:

Well I heard to not solder before, but I know nothing. Maybe we should start a thread "To solder or not to solder"?? A hydrolic compression crimp - would that be something done at NAPPA parts?

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I just ordered a crimper on eBay... works great. NAPA sells the hammer style... hard for the beginner to use.
I don’t know if they can crimp for you or not. You would have to ask your store I think.

Supervstech said:

I just ordered a crimper on eBay... works great. NAPA sells the hammer style... hard for the beginner to use.
I don’t know if they can crimp for you or not. You would have to ask your store I think.

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Is the one you bought beginner-friendly?