diy solar

diy solar

Is this correct? and advice on buying a small wind turbine

A

adamrt

New Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2020
Messages
16
HI everyone, sorry to ask a question which i'm sure has been asked a million times, i have researched it and i am not being lazy!

My wife wants lights and a fridge for her allotment (keep the wine cool!)

So i have bought a 100w solar panel, i'm looking for a reasonable price wind turbine, (been trying to get a Rutland 913 but too expensive) and i have also bought a hybrid charge controller and 2 x 120a leisure batteries.

I have wired the 2 batteries positive to positive and negative to negative, connected this to the charge controller using 10 gauge wire with 30amp fuse built in, the charge controller is a Fuhuihe Wind Solar Hybrid Charge Controller Boost Charge 12/24V Auto Charging Controller 600W Wind + 400W Solar but it doesnt have a USB port. Then from the charge controller to the solar and turbine.

Q 1 is the above set up correctly?
Q 2 Any recommendation's for a turbine?
Q 3 How do I run a USB (5V) from this?
Q 4 Can I run a plug socket from the batteries and connect the fridge? it's a Engel DC fridge

Thanks in advance for any help

Adam
 
You could accomplish a lot more by expanding your solar setup before you go to a turbine. Also AC fridges use a lot less power than dc fridges.
 
Interesting point as in the winter I wont be using the fridge so more solar could be easier, if there a Max W I can run into two 120a batteries?
So would running an invertor and an AC fridge be better?

Thanks
 
As far as wind turbine it is all about the wind speed . What is your location and average wind speeds throughout the year?
 
Reply
adamrt said:
Interesting point as in the winter I wont be using the fridge so more solar could be easier, if there a Max W I can run into two 120a batteries?
So would running an invertor and an AC fridge be better?

Thanks
Click to expand...
What is your controller rated for? How much space do you have for panels? It is not just about the batteries although they are your storage bank for power but everything has to match up in your system to work together. Unless you have an abundance of wind, expand your solar first. Yes, running an inverter instead of a dc fridge is more efficient. My dc fridge in my camp trailer uses 400 watts + to operate and the draw is more constant compared to an ac frigde that cycles off and on. A small ac fridge may use 40 to 80 watts to run.
 
Last edited:
I am in N.London so wind speed is from 0 to 20mph, it's on the top of a hill which helps.
600w Wind and 400w Solar
It's for an allotment so only running LED lights, fridge and maybe charge a mobile phone.
I believe the fridge only uses 32W, is a small 15 L Engel fridge
 
adamrt said:
I am in N.London so wind speed is from 0 to 20mph, it's on the top of a hill which helps.
600w Wind and 400w Solar
It's for an allotment so only running LED lights, fridge and maybe charge a mobile phone.
I believe the fridge only uses 32W, is a small 15 L Engel fridge
Click to expand...
What is your max amps rating on your controller? What is your max volt rating on your controller? When this is known then you can go from there. Do you have your brand and model number of your controller?
 
Last edited:
Looked it up your average is about 11.5 MPH and if you on a hill top should be a little higher. Hard to give you a recommendation on brand being that I am across the big pond from you. For something cheaper than the Rutland maybe check amazon for a 12/24 volt model AC output
 
GLC said:
Yes I found that, problem is it does not state max amps and volts on the description on the solar side of the controller. It will make a difference of what kind of and how many panels you can hook up to this controller. Do you have the manual?
Click to expand...
not much of a manual

7258282F-9204-4EE8-9C6C-7DB90F5A9F78.jpeg
 
If I read these documents properly, your box JNW248, 400 watts, is 24 volts not 12 volts. So your batteries would have to be hooked up in series not parallel like you have them wired now? The 12 volt model is the JNW1230. So you may have a problem if you are trying to feed 12 volts directly to something because your setup will be wired at 24 volts. If you run a 24 volt inverter, then you would be ok. Or you would have to use a step down transformer to reduce your voltage from 24 to 12 volts to feed directly off of the batteries. So what is the specs on your solar panel? Can you take a pic of the sticker on the back showing amps and voltage? This still doesn't tell me the maximum voltage that the box can handle. It will make a difference how you add and wire your panels for volts vs amps.
 
adamrt said:
if there a Max W I can run into two 120a batteries?
So would running an invertor and an AC fridge be better?

Thanks
Click to expand...

"120a leisure batteries."

Exactly what sort of batteries? FLA? AGM? Gel? any particular chemistry? Have specs?

If FLA, may want 0.2C = 24A charge current to stir electrolyte.
If AGM, may want max 0.1C or 0.2C, 12A to 24A, could have some preferred minimum current for cyclical use.
If AGM, lower max could be 0.05C or 0.1C, 6A or 12A
All per battery.
Try to find technical documentation from manufacturer.

Consider only operating fridge while the sun shines, so battery doesn't have to cycle each night. That can allow much smaller battery. But, need to avoid excessive charge current.

A DC compressor type fridge can be quite efficient.
Newer household AC refrigerators are reasonably efficient. Some people get a chest freeze and add a refrigerator-temperature thermostat.

If fridge/freezer has a defrost cycle, it's heating element is a large part of nameplate rating. For wine fridge without freezer, no defrost needed.
Check consumer energy labels for power consumption. Full-size modern fridge/freezer are around 500 kWh/year, 1500 Wh/day from which you can determine how many PV panels needed. Your 400W solar x 5 hours effective sunshine is close, given inefficiencies.
Starting induction motor of A/C compressor takes a surge current 5x the nameplate rating (assuming no defrost element included in rating.) Perhaps about 2000W, which inverter needs to be able to deliver.
 
GLC said:
If I read these documents properly, your box JNW248, 400 watts, is 24 volts not 12 volts. So your batteries would have to be hooked up in series not parallel like you have them wired now? The 12 volt model is the JNW1230. So you may have a problem if you are trying to feed 12 volts directly to something because your setup will be wired at 24 volts. If you run a 24 volt inverter, then you would be ok. Or you would have to use a step down transformer to reduce your voltage from 24 to 12 volts to feed directly off of the batteries. So what is the specs on your solar panel? Can you take a pic of the sticker on the back showing amps and voltage? This still doesn't tell me the maximum voltage that the box can handle. It will make a difference how you add and wire your panels for volts vs amps.
Click to expand...
it clearly says 12/24 v on amazon

F59F69DA-AF7F-47B2-9F2F-E92FDA8CB6A9.jpegF3D81BDE-EBE3-4576-A511-5D585897B417.jpeg
 
I based my statement on the manual that you took a pic of. Apparently there is a discrepancy from the manual to the markings on the unit. I don't guess it shows the maximum voltage that it will accept from the solar panels printed on the box? Also have you looked at your panels and got a pic of its specs?
 
Hedges said:
"120a leisure batteries."

Exactly what sort of batteries? FLA? AGM? Gel? any particular chemistry? Have specs?

If FLA, may want 0.2C = 24A charge current to stir electrolyte.
If AGM, may want max 0.1C or 0.2C, 12A to 24A, could have some preferred minimum current for cyclical use.
If AGM, lower max could be 0.05C or 0.1C, 6A or 12A
All per battery.
Try to find technical documentation from manufacturer.

Consider only operating fridge while the sun shines, so battery doesn't have to cycle each night. That can allow much smaller battery. But, need to avoid excessive charge current.

A DC compressor type fridge can be quite efficient.
Newer household AC refrigerators are reasonably efficient. Some people get a chest freeze and add a refrigerator-temperature thermostat.

If fridge/freezer has a defrost cycle, it's heating element is a large part of nameplate rating. For wine fridge without freezer, no defrost needed.
Check consumer energy labels for power consumption. Full-size modern fridge/freezer are around 500 kWh/year, 1500 Wh/day from which you can determine how many PV panels needed. Your 400W solar x 5 hours effective sunshine is close, given inefficiencies.
Starting induction motor of A/C compressor takes a surge current 5x the nameplate rating (assuming no defrost element included in rating.) Perhaps about 2000W, which inverter needs to be able to deliver.
Click to expand...
I have no idea what the batteries are
2C523118-A01A-4404-9E39-8FF0260559F9.jpeg94247A74-29BC-4E0E-966D-5ED1D909DAFC.jpeg
 
GLC said:
I based my statement on the manual that you took a pic of. Apparently there is a discrepancy from the manual to the markings on the unit. I don't guess it shows the maximum voltage that it will accept from the solar panels printed on the box? Also have you looked at your panels and got a pic of its specs?
Click to expand...
Arrived today

21F6EFBB-A343-4BE0-ADBD-ED23759D81BB.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

I
Wind turbine no amps
Replies
8
Views
568
pollenface
pollenface
J
Wind turbine
Replies
3
Views
365
pollenface
pollenface
G
Connecting PV and Wind to the same battery
Replies
2
Views
301
400bird
4
L
Charge and dump load controller for DIY wind turbine
Replies
3
Views
426
Hogheavenfarm
Hogheavenfarm
S
Solar Panel and Wind Turbine Power in the Same Cable
Replies
1
Views
277
chrisski
chrisski
Back
Top