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Has anyone tried this 12v 3000W LF inverter?

Yeah I'm UK based, I've been using simply split charge for cables but there expensive. A link to cheaper ones would be handy. Thanks
I've been sat pricing up the things I need to go with the inverter, dishwasher, microwave and possibly a bread maker but that means new water tank, inline pressure valve, using the old tank as a waste tank, redoing the waste drainage all before I look at microwaves. Just as well I don't drink coffee and don't need a coffee machine. All in about £500 plus the price of the inverter or I could buy a converted power supply as a charger and carry on hand washing the dishes and heating things on the cooker. Hmm decisions decisions
Have a look at https://www.superlecdirect.com/ at their Tri Rated cable.
When you see UK companies use words like over rated/over sized cable, there is a good chance they are selling you metric sized cable that they are buying from Superlec but they are charging twice the price. The same goes for UK seller on ebay. They quote AWG sizes but go on to say the cable is over sized.
You really need a minimum 100mm2 cable to pull enough power to run a 12v inverter close to 3000W.
You wont need much of it because you want the inverter as close as possible to your battery.
You also want something like a 250A breaker (or 250A Mega fuse) between your battery and inverter.

I'm buying 120mm2 (4/0 AWG) which is £20 per meter with the VAT, to go from my battery to the 3000W inverter.
The large 120mm2 lugs are £1.62 each

When you look at their tri rated 10mm2 (8AWG) is only £1.50 per meter. On ebay your paying £4 per meter for exactly the same cable.

All the bits like cables and lugs and breakers add up. So if we can save a few quid it's a bonus.
You could go for 95mm2 tri rated (3.0 AWG) if you not pushing the inverter right up to 3000W continuous.

You really need to put a clamp on the 240v appliances to see how many watts they pull on start up and continuous.
A lot of people think an 800w microwave uses 800w max but they often pull more than double that on start up.
 
My fridge pulls 110a on start up but only 4a once running. It's only for a split second, so quick I've never seen it do it but the bms catches it.
Cheers for the links on the cable, should save me a few quid. Don't suppose you have a link to 250L water tanks that's less than £200?
 
My fridge pulls 110a on start up but only 4a once running. It's only for a split second, so quick I've never seen it do it but the bms catches it.
Cheers for the links on the cable, should save me a few quid. Don't suppose you have a link to 250L water tanks that's less than £200?
Keep your eye on FB because they pop up on there cheap on a regular basis.
I think im going to custom build my water tanks.
That's for a different forum. LOL
 
Just had a look on amazon and the mophorn inverter that looks identical claims to have a 95a charger built in. Aliexpress has started adding tax to items sent to the UK, looks like its 15%. That takes the charger I was looking at from 1/4 to 1/3 of the price of the inverter. Looks like I'm going to buy this vevor or mophorn in the next day or so. With the threatened brown outs and the two full chest freezers we have(I live in my truck but my GF's house is on a farm) think I may need it sooner rather than later.
So what's the chance of the mophorn actually having a 95a charger in it? If it does will it just be an overclocked version of the 70a charger? If so will it be safe to run at 95a for extended periods of time?
 
Just had a look on amazon and the mophorn inverter that looks identical claims to have a 95a charger built in.
None of the listings iv seen state any more than 70-75 Amp charging.
Yes Aliexpress has started adding 10% on most order.
Even items under £15.
I ordered a few different BMS boards ranging from £60 up to £140 per order and they all had 10% (VAT) added to the order by Aliexpress.
They call it VAT but i doubt the UK tax man ever see's any of it.
I have placed an order for just under £400 from Aliexpress and they didn't add the 10% but i will be paying import tax (10%) and more than likely 20% VAT.
I have read some reviews about people buying from Vevor who end up paying Import Tax & VAT because the stock isn't in the UK.
I asked Vevor about import tax and they replied with a vague reply that tried to imply all taxes are included but when you look in their website they state that items imported Do Not include Taxes.
Your best bet is probably to pay the extra few pounds and buy it from Amazon if you can.

I'm going to wait a couple of days to hear back from the main retailer/manufacture in China.
 
For the extra £10 on amazon and the extra level of refund security I might get itsprobably worth it especially if I pay with PayPal. Probably going to wait till you here back from China. Not sure how much difference that will make but there may be something in it that makes me go for the star or solar star one, the £500 version that looks a lot more like the sterling one they all copy.
If it comes from the EU there shouldn't be import charges, something to do with politics that you may have heard off. Don't care, I just got a power steering pump from Germany that came from Italy for a French (Renault) truck made in Sweden and there was no import fee. That was 2 weeks ago, ordered Monday 11am arrived Thursday at 2:30pm.if it comes from China technically there should be vat import tax etc but like you say the tax man's not getting it.
I would pay the £500 asking price if I could find a 90a+ charger built in
 
I went for it late mo day night or early Tuesday morning. Should be arriving by the 1st of the month. Hopefully all will be good
 
I went for it late mo day night or early Tuesday morning. Should be arriving by the 1st of the month. Hopefully all will be good
I have had a couple of messages back and forth with the retailer/manufacture and i'm waiting for a price for this 3000W inverter and a price for the LED &/OR LCD remote panels. Sometimes it's like pulling teeth to get answers to simple questions. Or get prices for single orders.
You would think I was asking for state secrets. LOL
I will give it until next week. Otherwise i will be buying from one of the Amazon retailers.
 
If you are able to get a remote can you let me know? I take it that your thinking of buying direct from China.
 
If you are able to get a remote can you let me know? I take it that your thinking of buying direct from China.
Yes mate i will put up a link to the remote panel or share the contact details if this pans out. The manufacture is putting a sticker over the remote connection port, which says contact the retailer to purchase the remote panel.
So the manufacture clearly want to sell them.
It seems the sellers/retailers dont bother selling them?
I have asked the sellers on Amazon and Vevor but they are not interested in selling the remote panels.
That means we will have to buy them direct from the main retailer/manufacture in China.
 
I might buy the controller I linked to earlier if its the same port, for £10 I recon its worth trying. But I'm sure I read someplace the inverter doesn't have the plug for the romote to plug into, it has a hole where it should go behind the sticker but not the socket. When it's in my hands I will know more, its still not dispatched.
 
I might buy the controller I linked to earlier if its the same port, for £10 I recon its worth trying. But I'm sure I read someplace the inverter doesn't have the plug for the romote to plug into, it has a hole where it should go behind the sticker but not the socket. When it's in my hands I will know more, its still not dispatched.
Did you order from Amazon or Vevor?
I found a handy tracking website. Iv have got 8 or more items coming from China on different ship, planes and items that have already entered the UK. All with different delivery companies, that often changing to different companies once they enter the UK. https://www.parcelmonitor.com/track-it-online does a search of every delivery globally and you just enter all the different tracking numbers one after the next. Then leave the page open and refresh the page to track all your deliveries at the same time. It's better and more detailed than tracking Royal mail items, than the royal mail website. It will show when and where any item is scanned during the delivery process. There is a Show More Detail tab below each tracked item. It will show you when the items are actually shipped and where from, if you have a genuine tracking number. Sometimes i have to enter the China Post option myself from the drop down menu.
 
I ordered thru amazon and it would have arrived today but I wasn't in. Its getting redelivered tomorrow. So is another overkill solar bms that I will run parallel to the one I already have. Giving me 2x 4s 272ah lishen batteries that tested over 290ah. Hopefully that will give me enough power to run this inverter.
The tracking info never went live on amazon until today or I would have made sure I answered the phone and got them to leave it at the mailbox. I live 2 miles up a dirt track
 
Just tried the tracking link above and it turns out the inverter started out in the uk. Norton cranes, Staffordshire. Was the dispatch scan.
 
Just tried the tracking link above and it turns out the inverter started out in the uk. Norton cranes, Staffordshire. Was the dispatch scan.
Norton cranes, Staffordshire is an Amazon bulk warehouse that deals with retailers stock directly on pallets.
I would be grateful if you can let me know if the inverter does have the ports for the remote to plug in and the green plug for the auto generator start.
 
I will post pics and a review on here once I get it. It should arrive tomorrow but wont be until the weekend before I get it wired up. The green plug is for remote start of a genny I think unfortunately my genny doesn't have that feature.
 
Inverter just arrived, it doesn't have the remote socket or the remote start plug. I'm away to contact the seller as it states in the description it should have the remote start
 
Andy, Pike:
Interesting info in this thread. Any updates on this low-budget frequency inverter? I'm in the US, but similar ones seem to be made for 12V--> 110VAC, 60Hz. Since the link supplied in the (amazon.UK) ad doesn't appear to match this product (e.g the manual describes an MPPT solar charge controller,the actual item doesn't seem to have this, etc) any information you can provide would be helpful.

I don't need the bells and whistles (generator start, remote data panel or operation, etc). I don't even >really< need an AC --> battery charger. receptacles, or USB charging ports to be built in. But a robust LF inverter in this capacity and price range would be welcome.

PS: I hope the electricity situation this this winter isn't going to be as rough as it now looks.

Mark, Dayton, OH, USA
 
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Andy, Pike:
Interesting info in this thread. Any updates on this low-budget frequency inverter? I'm in the US, but similar ones seem to be made for 12V--> 110VAC, 60Hz. Since the link supplied in the (amazon.UK) ad doesn't appear to match this product (e.g the manual describes an MPPT solar charge controller,the actual item doesn't seem to have this, etc) any information you can provide would be helpful.

I don't need the bells and whistles (generator start, remote data panel or operation, etc). I don't even >really< need an AC --> battery charger. receptacles, or USB charging ports to be built in. But a robust LF inverter in this capacity and price range would be welcome.

PS: I hope the electricity situation this this winter isn't going to be as rough as it now looks.

Mark, Dayton, OH, USA
There are a range of inverter chargers. So the features vary between the models. I can tell you that the one I purchased from Amazon UK didn't have the remote switch plug but I just extended the On/Off button mounted on the case to a generic inverter switch I purchased off ebay. The generator start wasn't included either.
Those items were excluded due to the chip shortage globally (especially in China)
I did speak to the manufacturing company after LOADs of digging around online.
All these LF inverter units sold under different brand names use the same main components and they just change the metal box slightly.
The inverter works fine. Unless your powering large pumps that have a massive surge, I can't imagine needing more than a 3000w version but they do build much large units.
I've run a 240v chop saw with a 12 inch blade without any problem. I did measure the surge of the chop saw and it was way over 3000w. Sorry can't remember what it was. I've tried (and fried) HF inverters trying to run that chop saw.
No problem running a microwave and a induction hob at the same time but you need the battery and cables and BMS to match you power requirements..
I've got two 300Ah Lifepo4 batteries, both batteries have a 200A BMS.
The cables from the batteries to the inverter are less than 2ft long. Shorter the better.

A 12v to 110v inverter won't be working as hard as my 12v to 240v inverter. (at 3000w you really are pushing the limit of a 12v to 240v system). Any more than 3000w and you need to be running 24v or 48v.
The one modification that you want to make is replacing the cooling fan.
The original fan supplied is really noisy and it kicks in every time the inverter turns on for a couple of seconds.
It's a simple and cheap mod to swap out the standard fan for a quiet one. (the large PC fan is a standard size so it's a straight swap)

Another thing to note is that the 3000w version has a better quality windings than the 1000w & 2000w versions.
From the limited info I found at the time, it seemed the 3000w version used no more power on stand-bye than the smaller versions. Possibly using less power.
When it comes to buying inverters it's always better to buy one bigger than you need. It wont work as hard and will last longer. Plus you have a buffer if and when you require extra power.
I think the biggest mistake most people make is buying an inverter and then you want to power more items. Then your buying twice because your upgrading to a new larger inverter.
The charger is a handy function. Try looking at prices for a 75A charger. The price of a charger that size is almost the cost of this inverter charger.
If i remember correctly people have mentioned some of the other brand names these units and similar larger units are sold under.
They only break if you seriously abuse them and a search online will find the same generic LF complete internals at $120-$150.

So no complaints apart from the excluded function of the remote switch and generator start. (no idea if they have started including them now)
People that purchased this 3000w version a month before me had those functions included but in the UK people don't really use generators and they are not allowed on UK campsites.
P.s there wasn't an MPPT function listed on my unit. Your 110v USA version might have one.
Double check with the supplier, which functions are included before you make the purchase and make sure it has the setting to charge Lifepo4 cells (if that what your charging?)
 
Andy, thanks very much for the report. That, plus your previous information from (extensive) inquiries to the manufacturer, is very useful to me
The inverter works fine. Unless your powering large pumps that have a massive surge, I can't imagine needing more than a 3000w version but they do build much large units.
I've run a 240v chop saw with a 12 inch blade without any problem. I did measure the surge of the chop saw and it was way over 3000w. Sorry can't remember what it was. I've tried (and fried) HF inverters trying to run that chop saw.
I'm seeking to run a submerged well pump. Its not a huge one (1/2 hp, a "two wire" 115 VAC unit that draws about 8 amps when running (so about 920 watts)). The challenge, of course, is the starting surge, which looks to be about 6000 watts. That's why I'm looking for a LF inverter. I don't need to run the pump for long (30 minutes every couple of days), but I do need to run it, and some other things.
The one modification that you want to make is replacing the cooling fan.
The original fan supplied is really noisy and it kicks in every time the inverter turns on for a couple of seconds.
It's a simple and cheap mod to swap out the standard fan for a quiet one. (the large PC fan is a standard size so it's a straight swap)
Thanks, that sounds easy and cheap insurance.
I think the biggest mistake most people make is buying an inverter and then you want to power more items. Then your buying twice because your upgrading to a new larger inverter.
The charger is a handy function. Try looking at prices for a 75A charger. The price of a charger that size is almost the cost of this inverter charger

I'm pretty sure I won't outgrow a 3000W inverter (everyone says that!). This is for a residential backup system,and I'm trying to stick to just "critical needs," no luxuries.
I hadn't strongly considered the possible utility of a big 75A charger. But, since my project is a backup system and my solar panels aren't up until I need them, the ability to use (possibly intermittent) grid power to rapidly bring my batteries back to full charge might be handy.
P.s there wasn't an MPPT function listed on my unit. Your 110v USA version might have one.
The US Amazon listing didn't mention that the unit had an MPPT solar charge controller, but an owner's manual linked from that listing did mention that the unit had an MPPT charge controller. Probably a different model, etc.
Double check with the supplier, which functions are included before you make the purchase and make sure it has the setting to charge Lifepo4 cells (if that what your charging?)
I'm just using flooded lead acid batteries now. Maybe someday . . .

Thanks again for the report. It is good to get firsthand feedback. I'm not ready to buy yet, but having a trusted favorable review of an LF inverter within my budget is very nice. Maybe I'll come across a used "premium" LF inverter (from an EMS or ambulance, etc), but I'm not holding my breath.

Mark
 
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Andy, thanks very much for the report. That, plus your previous information from (extensive) inquiries to the manufacturer, is very useful to me

I'm seeking to run a submerged well pump. Its not a huge one (1/2 hp, a "two wire" 115 VAC unit that draws about 8 amps when running (so about 920 watts)). The challenge, of course, is the starting surge, which looks to be about 6000 watts. That's why I'm looking for a LF inverter. I don't need to run the pump for long (30 minutes every couple of days), but I do need to run it, and some other things.

Thanks, that sounds easy and cheap insurance.


I'm pretty sure I won't outgrow a 3000W inverter (everyone says that!). This is for a residential backup system,and I'm trying to stick to just "critical needs," no luxuries.
I hadn't strongly considered the possible utility of a big 75A charger. But, since my project is a backup system and my solar panels aren't up until I need them, the ability to use (possibly intermittent) grid power to rapidly bring my batteries back to full charge might be handy.

The US Amazon listing didn't mention that the unit had an MPPT solar charge controller, but an owner's manual linked from that listing did mention that the unit had an MPPT charge controller. Probably a different model, etc.

I'm just using flooded lead acid batteries now. Maybe someday . . .

Thanks again for the report. It is good to get firsthand feedback. I'm not ready to buy yet, but having a trusted favorable review of an LF inverter within my budget is very nice. Maybe I'll come across a used "premium" LF inverter (from an EMS or ambulance, etc), but I'm not holding my breath.

Mark
Have you considered looking at building an air lift pump. The cost would be tiny. You would need to pump into a storage tank. It works on the basis that you pump a constant supply of water in small volume into a header tank. A small solar panel and a 12v aquarium air pump are the basic parts. You can lift water from very deep wells. The air is pumped just below the surface of the water and the air bubbles trap water as the bubbles rise up a small diameter pipe. If you pump 2-4 gallons of water per hour for 8 hours per day, that's more than enough water for a family and livestock. If you require more water you can scale up the size of the 12v aquarium air pump, or add a second one. Once you tank is full a switch turns off the pump. You don't even need a battery. I know an on demand water pump is nice but the whole system gets expensive. A raised header tank will give you plenty of water pressure. Loads of info online about air lift pumps. The bonus is there are no mechanical parts to break or wear out. Just a 12v aquarium air pump and they run for years if you put a basic filter on the air intake. No expensive large diameter pipe to buy. You always have the option to pump from the water tank up the the house but that requires less power and a smaller pump, than lifting ground water hundreds of foot to the surface.
 
Have you considered looking at building an air lift pump. The cost would be tiny. You would need to pump into a storage tank. It works on the basis that you pump a constant supply of water in small volume into a header tank. A small solar panel and a 12v aquarium air pump are the basic parts. You can lift water from very deep wells. The air is pumped just below the surface of the water and the air bubbles trap water as the bubbles rise up a small diameter pipe. If you pump 2-4 gallons of water per hour for 8 hours per day, that's more than enough water for a family and livestock. If you require more water you can scale up the size of the 12v aquarium air pump, or add a second one. Once you tank is full a switch turns off the pump. You don't even need a battery. I know an on demand water pump is nice but the whole system gets expensive. A raised header tank will give you plenty of water pressure. Loads of info online about air lift pumps. The bonus is there are no mechanical parts to break or wear out. Just a 12v aquarium air pump and they run for years if you put a basic filter on the air intake. No expensive large diameter pipe to buy. You always have the option to pump from the water tank up the the house but that requires less power and a smaller pump, than lifting ground water hundreds of foot to the surface.
Andy, thanks. I did look into this, it's not a widely known approach to lifting water, I'm surprised you came across it.
As I understand things (and I may >very< well be wrong), it's not the action of the rising bubbles that does the work. Instead, by adding bubbles to a column of water we are decreasing the density of that column (the air bubbles are a lot less dense than the water they displace, so the column as a whole is considerably less dense than an equivalent column of pure water. The bubbly column is buoyed up surrounding column of "pure" water ).
A simple example: If we imagine my 5" diameter steel well bore that goes down 150' below grade. The static water level is at, say, 40' below grade. I put a 1" diameter PVC pipe down 120' below grade (so the top 40' is filled with air, the bottom 80' is filled with water). Now, I bubble in air at the bottom of that PVC pipe, and as the bubbles rise they eventually reach to the top. For simplicity, let's say the resulting column of water in the PVC pipe has 1/2 the density of the "unbubbled" water in my well. So, it has buoyancy (just as if it were made of styrofoam, etc of similar density) and this less dense bouyant column is lifted up by the more dense "pure" water surrounding it in my well casing. It gets lifted, and the top of the column is now above the static water level in my well. A few observations:
1) The air from my pump must enter way down in the PVC column so it can fill it with air bubbles. The air bubbles won't come out of my bubbler unless the air pressure exceeds the water pressure at that depth. In our example above, our 80 ft of water above the air bubbler exerts a hydrostatic pressure of 35psi (238 kPa), so my air compressor needs to pump air against that pressure to get the first bubble out.

2) Since the bubbles do rise through the column and exit at the top, I need to continually add air to the column just to keep its density at the same low amount so that the column remains buoyant. I don't recall the formula for this air volume, but it isn't trivial. Working from memory, I think I figured out I'd need about a 1/2 hp compressor to produce the needed air volume (in CFM) against that 35PSI backpressure and get a fairly small flow of water at the top. That's about the same power requirement as my existing conventional well pump.

3) My well is deep enough, but some aren't. Again, working from memory, I believe the general rule is something like: "you need 2 feet of bubbly column below the static water line for every foot of lift you want."

Anyway, you jogged my memory and I'll look for my notes again sometime. The approach is pretty popular among folks doing hydroponics because their lifts are small (so, little back pressure at the compressor) and very filthy water can be pumped this way. If you need to aerate the water anyway to keep the pond/crops health, then this amounts to a "free" way to lift water. For my use it might not be perfect. It does have the (significant) advantage that all the mechanical stuff is outside the well and easily serviced.

I've also considered:

- Replacing my "everyday" 115VAC 1/2 hp electric pump (they cost about $250, last about 15 years) with a Grundfos 1/2 HP DC pump (about $900 to replace). Advantage--no-fuss transition to "solar" pumping of residential water if the AC power becomes unavailable.
- Hand pumps (not fun, but apparently pretty bulletproof as long as the water level in my well doesn't go down too far during a dry period). As you suggested, I'd pump the water into a tank and move it wherever I want (even pressurize the house plumbing) with a simple 12VDC diaphragm pump as used by RVs (caravans), etc
- When the AC goes out, snake a small diameter (approx 1.8") 12VDC deep well pump into my well in addition to the existing pipe and wires from the existing pump. A pump like this one (approx $200): https://www.ierents.com/product-p/prop-10300.htm
165 watts, it provides about 1.2 GPM at a lift of 40 feet (above the static height of the water, not the depth of the pump). At that wattage, in good sun I could run it continually during the daylight hours on two 100W panels (so, about 360 gallons over 5 hours, MUCH more than I need). Pros: This approach works even if my well pump AND inverter crump out: the pump can be powered directly from my battery (or panels-->SCC in the daytime). Cons: Apparently the pump isn't supposed to sit in water continuously and the motor can only be expected to last 400 hours.

Anyway, I need some sort of inverter anyway for other loads, so going with a "beefy" LF inverter lets me use my existing 115VAC well pump with no new piping, etc. Overall, it's the low-cost option (about $250 more than the 1500w HF inverter I'd otherwise buy). I'll surely also build a hand-pump and get a small12VDC membrane pump (a very handy thing).
Sorry to get off-track from the inverter issue.
 
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