Right?
JBD 4S 200A BMS
- Thread starter Punx_Afloat
- Start date
Yes. I only would suggest a diode antiparallel to the relay in case of a conventional (non-solid state) relay, to prevent any surges frying the FETs of the heater port due to inductance of the relay coil
I'm not sure, but if I remember correctly, the heater port can provide 8A, so unless you're really need a whopping 150 watt of heating power you can skip the relay all together.
I'm not sure, but if I remember correctly, the heater port can provide 8A, so unless you're really need a whopping 150 watt of heating power you can skip the relay all together.
I'm not very good at circuitry. You can draw on the diagram the correct position in your opinion. What is the nominal value of the diode you recommend.
Good to know, I asked the Alibaba store the same question, but they never got back to me.
Most regular diodes will work. I would suggest a 1N4007, which is a very common diode.
More info can be found on google. Since your from Russia:
Зачем параллельно катушке реле ставят диод? Для чего он нужен
На схемах,в которых на коллекторе или стоке транзистора в нагрузке стоит катушка реле,можно заметить,что параллельно катушке установлен диод,причем катодом к плюсу питания.При таком соединении диода,ток через него не пойдет на транзистор.Тогда для чего он нужен? Этот диод нужен для того,чтобы...
zen.yandex.ru
They are wrong. I think it's a translation / communication issue. The H is a switched -.
There is no + in the BMS available, thus it never can provide a switched +. (Except for the balance lead, but thats not suitable to provide any current).
In doubt you can always verify with a multimeter (Which I would do anyway)
There is no + in the BMS available, thus it never can provide a switched +. (Except for the balance lead, but thats not suitable to provide any current).
In doubt you can always verify with a multimeter (Which I would do anyway)
I agree with you. It's not logical. Switching always goes by "-", especially since in this case the current of 8 amps will go through a thin balancing wire. But the fact is that I sent the seller a drawing. And the seller said that this is correct. When I assemble the battery I will check both options. I think the seller is wrong.
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All I can say is that I have two 15W pads wired to the H- on one side and the main battery positive terminal on the other side (through a fuse and a LED switch outside the battery box) and it works.
I am curious as how you are going to wire your pads. From your drawing, you are planning five 30W? As I indicated in a previous post, my initial plan was to wire four silicone 15W pads in parallel (two on each side of the pack), about a 3.5A draw, as measured with the 4-pad circuit connected to another battery’s main positive and negative. When I tested low temp protection and heating with the four pad setup on the JBD 200, the BMS stopped the charge at the low temp setting, but would not power the pads. I retested the 4 pad circuit on another battery, and it worked. So I figured that maybe the 4-pad circuit with all the wiring had too much resistance for the BMS, so I tried with three 15 W in parallel. Still no go. Tried with two 15W in parallel, and then only it worked, drawing about 2.2 A...
Nami
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This is a new JBD BMS, which supports 6-21s LiFePO4 and Li-ion batteries. It uses MOS chip. At present, it is only sold in China and is preparing for CE certification
OTRwSolar
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Plan to order a JBD 4s 200a BMS with the optional RS485 port. Hoping to have some immediate redundancy in the event I'm unable to access the bluetooth module.
Will the various desktop apps that work with the JBD UART USB module also work with the JBD RS485 USB module? I assume I'll need to install drivers for the RS485 Module? Thx.
Will the various desktop apps that work with the JBD UART USB module also work with the JBD RS485 USB module? I assume I'll need to install drivers for the RS485 Module? Thx.
Hi all,
I’m investigating the JBD as BMS for my future 4S EVE304Ah battery pack. I see 3 versions that seem to be almost the same but look different. 120A discharge will be already overkill for me. Intended use is as service battery on a small vessel.
versions found with pictures included below in the same order:
• sp04S028
• sp04S020
• sp04s034
The latter is mainly discussed in this thread (heater function). It has also has a 200A version. From looks, I prefer this one, as it has terminals that can be bolted (no soldering required, less chance of short circuit due vibrations). But … what are the other differentiators?
BTW: I tried to view the companies website. Only the Chinese version loaded, the English version gave a server error.
Kind regards,
Perry
I’m investigating the JBD as BMS for my future 4S EVE304Ah battery pack. I see 3 versions that seem to be almost the same but look different. 120A discharge will be already overkill for me. Intended use is as service battery on a small vessel.
versions found with pictures included below in the same order:
• sp04S028
• sp04S020
• sp04s034
The latter is mainly discussed in this thread (heater function). It has also has a 200A version. From looks, I prefer this one, as it has terminals that can be bolted (no soldering required, less chance of short circuit due vibrations). But … what are the other differentiators?
BTW: I tried to view the companies website. Only the Chinese version loaded, the English version gave a server error.
Kind regards,
Perry
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Sback
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- Jul 5, 2021
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The 200amp one in picture 3 is by far the better bms as long as your use is only 12v. That bms can't be series connected. It may be overkill for your application but that's OK. You can get it with or without the heater function. The massive heat sink on the back is also a big bonus. You can drill and tap the 4 corners of it and use a 3/4 inch L bracket and have a nice clean way to mount it. All the bms's I sell already come drilled and tapped
Perry,
I just looked at Jaibaida.com and was given the option to translate to English, which worked. I didn't see much there on features of the models you listed. I ordered my SP04S034's from the manufacturer's store on Alibaba. It is Dongguan Jaibaida Electronic Technology, Co., Ltd. At the time their ad showed in several places that their 200 amp model had the heater function. At that time the listing that I viewed showed 6 options. Only one of which was the 200 amp version. It wasn't until after I received my order that I found out that what they shipped did not have the heater function. When I messaged them about it they said that I should have talked to them before ordering and they would have sent units with the heater function. Shortly after that I noticed that they revised their listing to show nine options. The descriptions now clearly show which ones have the heater function. It's actually only a dollar more. Today I see ten options. The only problem I'm having so far is not being able to adjust the size of the "window" on my laptop when using the software. It stays too large for me to slide it up so I can access the functions near the bottom.
James
Thanks for your replies. Alibaba gives a better overview and especially insight on the models; probably tailor made models become a catalogue item.
too bad formthe software; seems almost unavoidable for Chinese products, even today. The apps seems to be okay.
Perry
too bad formthe software; seems almost unavoidable for Chinese products, even today. The apps seems to be okay.
Perry
I own all three. If you're only going with a 12v system, you probably want the 200 amp model. Anything else, I recommend the 150 amp model. A BMS that is substantially over rated is not a bad thing. Even if you won't be drawing more than 100 amps, the 150 or 200 amp rated BMS is a good choice.
Looks supernice!I've made some mounts for the BMS.
Just printed 4 of those. There is approx 5mm space below the BMS to allow for ventilation and the nut on the busbars to fit properly.
JBD JiaBaida 4S 200A BMS mount by djsmiley
Mount for the JiaBiada 4S 200A LiFePO4 BMSwww.thingiverse.com
View attachment 81762
View attachment 81763
What would be the alternative method to mount it to the DYI battery box? I do not see any mounting points on the body of the BMS. Mount it on fixed terminals with holes on connection bars (B- and C- connection)?
Sback
New Member
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I just drill and tap the heat sink with a m3 and use 3/4 in L brackets. I don't have the L bracket on this one but you get the idea.
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