Thank you. Would you happen to know their various models output amperage of each inverter leg?
Growatt SPF 6000T DVM
- Thread starter jungblud59
- Start date
Definitely switch to 60Hz in the US. And go with the SBU priority (solar, battery, utility) to maximize your solar generation.
You are maxing this inverter out as it is designed to run up to 3kW per leg / 25 amps at 120v and though the unit is low frequency with autotransformer and handles surges pretty well, I would bet that your AC is putting you over the top.
You are maxing this inverter out as it is designed to run up to 3kW per leg / 25 amps at 120v and though the unit is low frequency with autotransformer and handles surges pretty well, I would bet that your AC is putting you over the top.
brucenolan
New Member
I tested the 6000t and it shut down with overload at 3200 watts on one phase, after approximately 10 seconds
Seems like if run some calcs;
V x I = P
Transposing;
P / V = I
And so the 8kW unit would yield 33.3 amps per leg.
Does this sound right? If so this would certainly solve my issues and not weigh to much more.
I'm alone in terms of heavy lifting and so the 6kW unit was awkwardly a bear to lift. The 8kW is not that much heavier.
Weight is a huge factor in my endeavors and choices.
V x I = P
Transposing;
P / V = I
And so the 8kW unit would yield 33.3 amps per leg.
Does this sound right? If so this would certainly solve my issues and not weigh to much more.
I'm alone in terms of heavy lifting and so the 6kW unit was awkwardly a bear to lift. The 8kW is not that much heavier.
Weight is a huge factor in my endeavors and choices.
A little update;
So I turned things on slowly to see what the break point would be.
I've 2x bar fridges, 2x large fridges and a dedicated freezer.
Everything ran and I could tell when the compressor motors would cycle as the inverters code 7 (overload) would flash and beep momentarily.
What pushed this over the edge and caused shut down were either the led lights in the garage or the fountain pump for a 130 gallon tiered water fountain.
Seeing how close this was, I've decided to really go big and get myself the 12kW unit. It's over kill but I know now that it should run with ease.
A fairly expensive lesson learned here both in time and money. But sometimes that's how it all goes.
I'll call Ian at Watt247 to see if he'll feel sorry enough to cut me a deal as I bought my current inverter from him.
So I turned things on slowly to see what the break point would be.
I've 2x bar fridges, 2x large fridges and a dedicated freezer.
Everything ran and I could tell when the compressor motors would cycle as the inverters code 7 (overload) would flash and beep momentarily.
What pushed this over the edge and caused shut down were either the led lights in the garage or the fountain pump for a 130 gallon tiered water fountain.
Seeing how close this was, I've decided to really go big and get myself the 12kW unit. It's over kill but I know now that it should run with ease.
A fairly expensive lesson learned here both in time and money. But sometimes that's how it all goes.
I'll call Ian at Watt247 to see if he'll feel sorry enough to cut me a deal as I bought my current inverter from him.
Sounds right. You have to size these things for the potential surge and not plan on running them maxed out for a long period of time. I have a 6000 W unit and I am mostly pulling 1 to 3K at a time on both legs combined with occasional surges that get me close to 2.5 and 3K on a single leg.
Pete@SolarBatteryBarn
New Member
It takes 240 volts AC input and can seamlessly go into utility/generator bypass when your battery gets low then switch back when the battery gets to the configured value.
I used to get data spikes on my monitoring app before I updated the firmware.
I used to get data spikes on my monitoring app before I updated the firmware.
Pete@SolarBatteryBarn
New Member
For most homes 3kW per leg is minimal.
If you have the money, buy the 12kW model.
If you have the money, buy the 12kW model.
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@Pete@SolarBatteryBarn I still get those data spikes. How do you update the firmware and where do you get it?
I now I wished I’d gotten the 8K model. As of now when I’m charging the EV the wife can’t make tea with the electric tea kettle without causing a fault. Because my kitchen has got a couple of multi-wire branch circuits I had to move more over to the off-grid system than I originally planned.
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Pete@SolarBatteryBarn
New Member
2021053101 SPF 4K-6K DVM GW510.04-5201.zip
drive.google.com
I also updated a bin file that may be what fixed it.
Ask francis.liang@growatt.com for it.
@Pete@SolarBatteryBarn: Unfortunately this firmware update did not take and now my inverter is dead. I will reach out to Francis Liang for support. Are they stateside or in china?
Pete@SolarBatteryBarn
New Member
They are stateside
Sorry to hear
Do you have nay other contact info?
Pete@SolarBatteryBarn
New Member
No
I use email
Any thoughs what may have gone wrong?
I use email
Any thoughs what may have gone wrong?
Not at all. I installed the driver for the ISP tool and the PC recognized the inverter. I unzipped and, using the ISP tool, browsed for the bin file that was in the folder you linked to and flashed the inverter. It shut down and the CHG light came on as the instructions stated it would. And then nothing. I let it run for well over 20 minutes. I did not get any progress bar or other indicators on the ISP tool.
Do you usually get responses quickly? I emailed this morning (I'm on Eastern time).
Pete@SolarBatteryBarn
New Member
No
I get one response per day later in the day.
I get one response per day later in the day.
After a number of calls and submitting a video of the current state of affairs to signature solar they were going to take back the unit and send me a new one. But the hassle of taking this hundred pound unit off the wall and shipping it back to them seemed greater than the trouble it might take me to install a new controller board myself. Growatt indicated it’s probably a fried controller board and signature solar agreed to provide a new one. But I have no instruction yet as to the replacement process and I’m wondering if anyone out there has done this before and can give me some advice. I will also contact signature solar to ask and I’m not going to try to just do it without clear instruction.
Am I making a mistake doing this myself and does anyone think I can do it while the unit is still mounted to the wall?
Brett V
Mad Scientist
Considering the weight of the unit, I'd opt for replacing the control board. I think the only tricky part will be carefully disconnecting the cable from the display board attached to the front cover without stressing it.
I saw a picture of someone opening the unit and had the same thought. Looks like there’s a ribbon cable to the controls/display on the front.
Anyone out there know of a video or post with pics showing the procedure for replacement?
I've measured around 150w sitting idle.
@BenFromSignatureSolar Looks like you hooked someone else up with the assistance I need to change out the control board on my SPF6000T DVM-MPV. It bricked after an attempted firmware update. Sig Solar already sent me a control board and I am ready to install it.
BenFromSignatureSolar
Solar Addict
Let me see what I can get together for you. Please send me over a DM with your email address and if you have it, order number.
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