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Xuba Electronics: DEAL - 280AH LiFePo4 cells. Purchase & Review

Capacity tests and QR code outcome are totally on topic as this topic is about :

Xuba Electronics: DEAL - 280AH LiFePo4 cells. Purchase & Review

If the review can not contain information about the capacity, or genuine naming.....

- The batteries don't arrive 100% charged, so they need to be topped-up. That automatically include charger
- Discharging measurements include the tools to do so.
- Genuine naming/factory tests include contacting the factory... (as we don't fully thrust any seller) (never thrust a car salesman)

If all not this....
then what should it be??

@Sgt Raven , just curious.
what are you expecting to find??
 
Capacity tests and QR code outcome are totally on topic as this topic is about :

Xuba Electronics: DEAL - 280AH LiFePo4 cells. Purchase & Review

....snip.....

@Sgt Raven , just curious.
what are you expecting to find??
I wanted an idea of the worse case situation using the battery for the fridge/freezer plus charging my small electronics and how long it could go without anything being put back in it. It looks like I can go 156 hours. I will have the Alternator and Solar to charge it back up. It's going to take pretty bad conditions for me to not have enough battery.

I'm taking a screen shot of the dashboard for the smart BMS every 10 minutes and checking on it when I do.

It appears the Smart BMS's firmware can be use for a capacity test.
 
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What would be the downside to hooking these right up to a solar system upon arrival if they are all 3.30 volts each without top or bottom balancing? Do you absolutely need a separate charger or is that only for testing purposes? Deciding how to proceed until I figure out a bms for these and very new to battery building. Have 16 in total for two 24v batteries.
 
Update! Relay attempt and another capacity test.

Relay
I made an attempt to use an Opto 22 Sold State Relay (SSR) with a cheap 15A BMS (8s 24V). Apparently, I didn't hook it up right. I was trying to figure out how to get it to shut off my new Samlex 4000W low-frequency inverter. The Opto 22 started smoking bad, then a loud pop with a piece of plastic flying off of it. There's a $22 lesson learned, ha ha.

As an alternative, I have a 40A 24V electro-magnetic automotive relay. But, I still had trouble trying to connect it to the inverter. The inverter has so many features and configurations, it's not clear how to set it up.

Later, I was reading the inverter manual and discovered the inverter has it's own low-voltage alarm & shutdown (cut off) feature. So, I don't need a relay. RTFM, ha ha.

Capacity Test
I ran another capacity test (2nd test with 1st half of cells (8 of 16 cells - two 24V packs)). I kept the small 15A BMS connected to the battery, but did not have the inverter connected to it (Inverter connected directly to battery). I ended up disconnecting the automotive relay as it was just getting hot and seemingly wasting power. I didn't have the relay switch wires go to anything. It looks like the BMS does not balance when nothing is connected to the P- wire.

Anyway, after getting past the relay issue, my next goal was to figure out how to use the middle 80% capacity of the battery. For this test, I charged the battery to 28V absorb charge, set the low-voltage alarm to 25V, and low-voltage cut-off (shutdown) to 24V.

8 cells @ 280Ah x 25.6V = 7,168Wh (24V nominal)

My thinking was to see about getting 80% of 7,168Wh = 5,734Wh
or
80% of 280Ah = 224Ah

Wanted to get a better feel for ideal upper & lower voltage settings.

1st Pic - The voltage started quickly dropping once I turned the inverter on
2nd Pic - Met the 80% Wh (5,758Wh @ 221Ah @ 25.51V), cells staying somewhat balanced
3rd Pic - 24.2V inverter low-voltage alarm beeps on & off, cells less balanced
4th Pic - Inverter shut itself off at 24V, continuous beep for 30 seconds (I set it to 30 sec) then it shut off, a quick drop from 24.2V in 4 minutes
5th Pic - I let the battery set a couple hours, shows cell recover voltage, still a little out of balance

What's interesting is the 3 meters all show slightly different voltages amongst each other.

Final Result
Beginning to end capacity usage: 28V (3.5V cell) to 24V (3V cell)
272Ah = 97% of 280Ah
7,041Wh = 98% of 7,168Wh

I ended up changing the low-voltage alarm from 25V to 24.2V as it kept beeping as it teetered between 24.9V to 25.1V since I wasn't discharging much, less than 700W at any given time (Refrigerator and home office stuff). It took like another hour or so to get to the 24.2V warning.

I'll do a similar test with my 2nd half of 8 cells. Probably go with 27V to 25V just to see how it compares.

I'm also curious to do a test to see where the quick voltage drop-offs are and set the upper & lower voltage limits to the edges of these drop-offs to see how it compares.
Delta, have you calibrated the voltage ? the odds are very high that the voltage read at the pack terminals are not the same as what the inverter sees at it's battery terminals, same for your SCC. You have to correct for the voltage differential. There is a link in my signature that covers this.

A Samlex EVO Inverter's Temp Sensor RJ45 port can be used for a Charge & Discharge disconnection signal when the Battery Type is set to Lithium the wiring diagram to do that is in the Samlex Manual. WARNING !!! Observe Polarity !!! Many SSR's are Unidirectional and polarity sensitive too. Maybe I should write an addendum to the Chargery Manuals for Samlex Integration using that port, it's tricky and problematic if there is more than one BMS it wouldn't work well unless there was more electronic trickery in between. Hmmm I'll ponder on that.
 
What would be the downside to hooking these right up to a solar system upon arrival if they are all 3.30 volts each without top or bottom balancing? Do you absolutely need a separate charger or is that only for testing purposes? Deciding how to proceed until I figure out a bms for these and very new to battery building. Have 16 in total for two 24v batteries.
Let me be sure I'm reading what you want to do. You want to assemble 2 24V batteries out of 16 cells and charge them up without a BMS, too?

You better be watching them like a Hawk and regularly checking individual cell voltage as you do it. Without a BMS, you won't have it keeping the cells from over charging at the cell or battery level. Building them into a battery with a BMS and charging them part way up and finishing them off in Parallel if needed is OK.

Just remember, you damage a cell or cells you're your own Warranty Center.
 
Delta, have you calibrated the voltage ? the odds are very high that the voltage read at the pack terminals are not the same as what the inverter sees at it's battery terminals, same for your SCC. You have to correct for the voltage differential. There is a link in my signature that covers this.

A Samlex EVO Inverter's Temp Sensor RJ45 port can be used for a Charge & Discharge disconnection signal when the Battery Type is set to Lithium the wiring diagram to do that is in the Samlex Manual. WARNING !!! Observe Polarity !!! Many SSR's are Unidirectional and polarity sensitive too. Maybe I should write an addendum to the Chargery Manuals for Samlex Integration using that port, it's tricky and problematic if there is more than one BMS it wouldn't work well unless there was more electronic trickery in between. Hmmm I'll ponder on that.
Making more work for yourself, Steve?
 
Update! Relay attempt and another capacity test.

Relay
I made an attempt to use an Opto 22 Sold State Relay (SSR) with a cheap 15A BMS (8s 24V). Apparently, I didn't hook it up right. I was trying to figure out how to get it to shut off my new Samlex 4000W low-frequency inverter. The Opto 22 started smoking bad, then a loud pop with a piece of plastic flying off of it. There's a $22 lesson learned, ha ha.

As an alternative, I have a 40A 24V electro-magnetic automotive relay. But, I still had trouble trying to connect it to the inverter. The inverter has so many features and configurations, it's not clear how to set it up.

Later, I was reading the inverter manual and discovered the inverter has it's own low-voltage alarm & shutdown (cut off) feature. So, I don't need a relay. RTFM, ha ha.

Capacity Test
I ran another capacity test (2nd test with 1st half of cells (8 of 16 cells - two 24V packs)). I kept the small 15A BMS connected to the battery, but did not have the inverter connected to it (Inverter connected directly to battery). I ended up disconnecting the automotive relay as it was just getting hot and seemingly wasting power. I didn't have the relay switch wires go to anything. It looks like the BMS does not balance when nothing is connected to the P- wire.

Anyway, after getting past the relay issue, my next goal was to figure out how to use the middle 80% capacity of the battery. For this test, I charged the battery to 28V absorb charge, set the low-voltage alarm to 25V, and low-voltage cut-off (shutdown) to 24V.

8 cells @ 280Ah x 25.6V = 7,168Wh (24V nominal)

My thinking was to see about getting 80% of 7,168Wh = 5,734Wh
or
80% of 280Ah = 224Ah

Wanted to get a better feel for ideal upper & lower voltage settings.

1st Pic - The voltage started quickly dropping once I turned the inverter on
2nd Pic - Met the 80% Wh (5,758Wh @ 221Ah @ 25.51V), cells staying somewhat balanced
3rd Pic - 24.2V inverter low-voltage alarm beeps on & off, cells less balanced
4th Pic - Inverter shut itself off at 24V, continuous beep for 30 seconds (I set it to 30 sec) then it shut off, a quick drop from 24.2V in 4 minutes
5th Pic - I let the battery set a couple hours, shows cell recover voltage, still a little out of balance

What's interesting is the 3 meters all show slightly different voltages amongst each other.

Final Result
Beginning to end capacity usage: 28V (3.5V cell) to 24V (3V cell)
272Ah = 97% of 280Ah
7,041Wh = 98% of 7,168Wh

I ended up changing the low-voltage alarm from 25V to 24.2V as it kept beeping as it teetered between 24.9V to 25.1V since I wasn't discharging much, less than 700W at any given time (Refrigerator and home office stuff). It took like another hour or so to get to the 24.2V warning.

I'll do a similar test with my 2nd half of 8 cells. Probably go with 27V to 25V just to see how it compares.

I'm also curious to do a test to see where the quick voltage drop-offs are and set the upper & lower voltage limits to the edges of these drop-offs to see how it compares.

View attachment 10943View attachment 10939View attachment 10940View attachment 10941View attachment 10942
Look forward to seeing the second set of results and your ultimate conclusions, findings and settings.
 
Update! Relay attempt and another capacity test.

Relay
I made an attempt to use an Opto 22 Sold State Relay (SSR) with a cheap 15A BMS (8s 24V). Apparently, I didn't hook it up right. I was trying to figure out how to get it to shut off my new Samlex 4000W low-frequency inverter. The Opto 22 started smoking bad, then a loud pop with a piece of plastic flying off of it. There's a $22 lesson learned, ha ha.

As an alternative, I have a 40A 24V electro-magnetic automotive relay. But, I still had trouble trying to connect it to the inverter. The inverter has so many features and configurations, it's not clear how to set it up.

Later, I was reading the inverter manual and discovered the inverter has it's own low-voltage alarm & shutdown (cut off) feature. So, I don't need a relay. RTFM, ha ha.

Capacity Test
I ran another capacity test (2nd test with 1st half of cells (8 of 16 cells - two 24V packs)). I kept the small 15A BMS connected to the battery, but did not have the inverter connected to it (Inverter connected directly to battery). I ended up disconnecting the automotive relay as it was just getting hot and seemingly wasting power. I didn't have the relay switch wires go to anything. It looks like the BMS does not balance when nothing is connected to the P- wire.

Anyway, after getting past the relay issue, my next goal was to figure out how to use the middle 80% capacity of the battery. For this test, I charged the battery to 28V absorb charge, set the low-voltage alarm to 25V, and low-voltage cut-off (shutdown) to 24V.

8 cells @ 280Ah x 25.6V = 7,168Wh (24V nominal)

My thinking was to see about getting 80% of 7,168Wh = 5,734Wh
or
80% of 280Ah = 224Ah

Wanted to get a better feel for ideal upper & lower voltage settings.

1st Pic - The voltage started quickly dropping once I turned the inverter on
2nd Pic - Met the 80% Wh (5,758Wh @ 221Ah @ 25.51V), cells staying somewhat balanced
3rd Pic - 24.2V inverter low-voltage alarm beeps on & off, cells less balanced
4th Pic - Inverter shut itself off at 24V, continuous beep for 30 seconds (I set it to 30 sec) then it shut off, a quick drop from 24.2V in 4 minutes
5th Pic - I let the battery set a couple hours, shows cell recover voltage, still a little out of balance

What's interesting is the 3 meters all show slightly different voltages amongst each other.

Final Result
Beginning to end capacity usage: 28V (3.5V cell) to 24V (3V cell)
272Ah = 97% of 280Ah
7,041Wh = 98% of 7,168Wh

I ended up changing the low-voltage alarm from 25V to 24.2V as it kept beeping as it teetered between 24.9V to 25.1V since I wasn't discharging much, less than 700W at any given time (Refrigerator and home office stuff). It took like another hour or so to get to the 24.2V warning.

I'll do a similar test with my 2nd half of 8 cells. Probably go with 27V to 25V just to see how it compares.

I'm also curious to do a test to see where the quick voltage drop-offs are and set the upper & lower voltage limits to the edges of these drop-offs to see how it compares.

View attachment 10943View attachment 10939View attachment 10940View attachment 10941View attachment 10942
Which BMS are you using with your 280aH's? How come a BattGo as well?
 
Ah, it appears the BMS is working when it's not fully connected. I charged the battery back up to 26.4V, left it overnight with everything off. This morning, I checked the voltage on each cell and they're all within 9mv from each other. This might be do-able after all.

I'm using this 15A BMS from eBay. The BattGo was something I bought a while back, after watching one of Will's vids. Need something to monitor cell balancing.

6b.jpg8b.jpg7b.jpg
 
A few of us on the forum were discussing capacity testing and are planning to use these, and in doing so aim to have identical test set-ups:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/8-In-1-150W-180W-Digital_62090055059.html


I ordered this one for higher rating:
 
Is someone willing to start a “Capacity Testing Procedure” Thread? What Equipment? How to hook up the Equipment? How to conduct the Test(s)? How to record the results? What do the Results mean? ???
 
Totally Agree! What is the status of this; remember seeing something about discussing with Will. Who has to do what to move this forward?
 
Thank you Steve S for this piece of Info: Your (from Steve: In my humble experience you will not save money using ocean. It might even be cheaper to do 2 Fedex shipments of 4 or 8 cells to keep the weight below some threshold. I will never again use ocean. Unless I am ordering a full container, to a warehouse completely under my control. Then you save big. Of course this is what Costco, Walmart, Home Depot, etc do. AliBaba sellers have no real way of knowing what US charges will be - DDP. So all they can do is contact a shipper, and tell them its going DDP.
Hi
Has anyone looked at using a courier service other than that selected by the seller. There is such a huge defference between shipping costs on AliBaba as compared to AliExpress. I do remember seeing a post somewhere on here recommending other couriers
Regards
 
Hi
Has anyone looked at using a courier service other than that selected by the seller. There is such a huge defference between shipping costs on AliBaba as compared to AliExpress. I do remember seeing a post somewhere on here recommending other couriers
Regards
ghostwriter66 has said her company has their own shipping accounts but the Chinese Companies tend to beat their own shipping rates. IDK about other couriers in country. But If the seller arranges the shipping, it's on them till you receive it. Otherwise it would be FOB their dock and it's on you and your choice of couriers from there on. Also it might cost you more thru Customs into your Country. Their is a big difference between FOB their dock and your door.
 
Hi
Has anyone looked at using a courier service other than that selected by the seller. There is such a huge defference between shipping costs on AliBaba as compared to AliExpress. I do remember seeing a post somewhere on here recommending other couriers
Regards
Yes, I have.
And it is helpful.
There are many transport companies selling their service on Alibaba.

This way you have different source of transport costs, and the difference can be huge!!
once your seller knows you do know the real pricing they will say some like "let met check with my freight forwarder again", and come with a price close to the one you told them you got quoted.

That is also a game.
They give you a price of example $2.90 per kg for DDP to Thailand.
So you tell the seller you got quote of $ 2.80 per kgs.
They come back to you with total price, not per kg, but you can do your own maths.
280Ah cells are 5.2 kg. give it some wrapping, make it 5.5kg per cell.

This way you still grand the seller to make a few (no longer a lot) extra bucks on transport, he stays responsible for all, and you have good price :)
 
ghostwriter66 has said her company has their own shipping accounts but the Chinese Companies tend to beat their own shipping rates. IDK about other couriers in country. But If the seller arranges the shipping, it's on them till you receive it. Otherwise it would be FOB their dock and it's on you and your choice of couriers from there on. Also it might cost you more thru Customs into your Country. Their is a big difference between FOB their dock and your door.
FOB, EXW, and many other incoterms will give you headache and loads of time lost with paperwork, and probably cost you tons.
unless you are experienced in this field, and have all the right paperwork and connections.

DDP... best way to go.
all costs paid, delivered at your doorstep "without*" any surprises.

* Due to Corona transport is crazy. and there can be huge delays.
if you change anything to speed up the process... be prepared to pay a few hundred $ extra at your doorstep.
If you change, the DDP is no longer valid, you pay double tax, and all the extra's that come with more fast track.
 
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