150amp dc breaker for battery?
- Thread starter khisanthax
- Start date
khisanthax
New Member
It's This battery that's 48v 50AH, but the specs say it goes past 48v, I've seen it go up to 55v if the lcd read out on my current inverter is to be believed. However, the inverter that I'm planning on buying says that it draws 127Amps on average, which is why they recommend 150A if that's to be believed? Also the distance will be less than 6ft for the cables from battery to inverter.
rodrick
Free energy enthusiast
Watch out for those breakers unless they are made by a good well known company like little fuse, buss, or blue sea you will not get a reliable breaker
khisanthax
New Member
I was searching around on the forum and saw that same recommendation. I was looking for blue sea class t fuse for the battery, but I could not find any 150A, only 200A+ or 63A ....
[/QUOTE]
DIHOOL 160 Amp DC Circuit Breaker for Off/ON-Grid Solar System, 1 Poles Battery Disconnect Switch for Inverter https://a.co/d/gsPnMLy
These two can be switched off or on under load with minimal damage. It’s always best to reduce load when possible to switch. Use pre charge if batteries isn’t equipped with one before closing circuit.
These two can be switched off or on under load with minimal damage. It’s always best to reduce load when possible to switch. Use pre charge if batteries isn’t equipped with one before closing circuit.
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mikefitz
Solar Wizard
- Joined
- May 28, 2020
- Messages
- 3,015
Your 50Ah battery is limited to a 50A discharge current, this will have a significant effect of fuse/breaker selection and operation of the inverter.
Mike
Noooo …..nooooo …if your going with a breaker / like that get the Buss 187 series .. …it’s the really good one …they cost about 60 to 70 dollars if you look good…some places will try to nuke ya for 100 or more dollars… The Buss 285/series( IIRC) is good but a lighter duty MRCB… either are light years ahead of that device…the 285 is a little less money Than the 187.
I use a Class T fuse and a battery switch between inverter and Lifepo4 batts.
everyone has a different spin on this , so that’s mine… good luck.
J.
https://www.donrowe.com/TFB1-150-150A-Class-T-Fuse-Kit-p/tfb1-150.htm appears to have it in stock.
khisanthax
New Member
That's what I had thought since the manual where it stated 137A continuous draw also stated on a 200A battery, which I do not currently have. Eventually I'll have 4x 50A batteries but not now. Will a 125A work because the battery is much lower than the 200A example?
khisanthax
New Member
These two can be switched off or on under load with minimal damage. It’s always best to reduce load when possible to switch. Use pre charge if batteries isn’t equipped with one before closing circuit.
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Thanks for that, I was just looking at dihool today. Just confirming that I don't need a switch for each polarity?
Double poles are internally symmetrical. If there is an optimal current direction, damned if I know. They have a huge arc chute. Regardless of polarity, for a 55 volt system it’s overkill. I was nosy, so I opened it up to have a peek. The only short fall in the design is the holes for the terminal screws. They are threaded in copper so be careful with not going crazy with tightening. Didn’t find any torque specs so just keep it in mind when you tighten those socket heads. 
khisanthax
New Member
Thanks for that! That's what I had thought and understood but with my growing awareness of how much I don't know I thought to ask in case I was wrong. Thanks again.
khisanthax
New Member
I wanted to circle round back to this. I bought the dihool 160A but I'm not sure where it's supposed to be mounted but it feels like I'm Jerry rigging it by getting 4-5 inch screws to put it onto the wall without a housing. Is there a way I should attach it to the wall?
Kinda feels like I should go for the blue sea system as it looks better to mount into the wall and it has caps to cover over the terminals.
Am I overthinking this?
Kinda feels like I should go for the blue sea system as it looks better to mount into the wall and it has caps to cover over the terminals.
Am I overthinking this?
The general consensus with the blue sea breakers (I retired them) is that they may sustain some arc damage if the are switched off (open) under load with voltages higher than 48 volts (56). For that reason many (me too) have gone with the bigger breakers. You can use two screws to mount it to the wall with Toggler wall anchors. The 10-24 screw will fit but you need to grind the head diameter down a bit to fit in in the counter bore. If you know a 3-D printer, perhaps he could print screw covers. Or you could buy a project box to put the breaker in.
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I use Megaval/Midval/vicron or any 125A auto fuses brand for most battery packs. Up to 100Ah you can use one, for more, you can use 2 in parallel. They are solid and easy to mount. Why not circuit breaker? Well, actually there's no need for it on the battery pack. You should have the BMS that DCs in case of emergency and the fuse costs like $1 and will make sure you're good even if something fails in the BMs safety measures.
khisanthax
New Member
Good points. I have this so I'll use the dihool, I just didn't expect it to be this large. I think I'll have to use toggle anchors even though the wall is wood, just to be safe. I didn't see any project boxes to put this in on Amazon. Any particular specifications? It came with a 3-4 inch bolt so I assume they assumed it would go into something related.
Does the circuit breaker protect the battery, inverter or both?
Does the circuit breaker protect the battery, inverter or both?
TomC4306
Solar Obsessive
?.
Look harder.
I went to amazon.com, searched for 'electrical project box' and got about a thousand results...
TomC4306
Solar Obsessive
khisanthax
New Member
I'll rephrase. I didn't see any that it would fit inside natively. But if you're saying you found boxes that this breaker would fit in I'll definitely check again.
