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I followed this advice, and unit is working. I had to use jumper wire to bond N’s together. “ Here is what I did temporarily while troubleshooting. First, I tested the outlet supplying grid power to the Growatt input. Make certain it has a good ground, and no voltage between neutral and ground...

@fazeshift not sure is this addresses your problem, but looks like it might.

Made the jump, and now showing ground on AC out. Hope the band aid is bulletproof.

Thanks for that, looks like the gang has a working fix I’ll have to try. Neither Signature or Growatt wants to address my missing program 24, so looks like I’m on my own. I wrote GW, and here’s reply. I asked for a copy of this special manual, that doesn’t seem to exist on interweb. “ I have...

Seems the jumper between neutrals is what watts 24/7 suggests on their MPP units, and he seems to be familiar with the issue.

I emailed them to cancel my order, and they promptly refunded my CC charge, might try that first. I ordered on 3/19, and had shipping promises moved back 3 times. I thought it strange they had a Feb batch missing in Kansas, couldn’t deliver Mar batteries, and were taking orders in Apr. I punted.

@fazeshift..using a multi, I’m getting 62v floating as you calculated. Assuming the jumper wire trick you mentioned worked in my case, what would be the permanent fix for this? Any ideas?

It mentions that in program settings, but doesn’t mention it in the dry contact signal section of manual..so, I don’t know.

I’m having issues with a GW 3000/24 as well, my AC out has a open ground. Vendor said to put it in “standby” mode by turning off inverter, but switching back on before display went dark. All this did in my case was bypass the batteries, and use utility, where I have good ground. I think this...

Curious if everyone with a GW 3000 has a setting 24? It’s in the manual, but my unit skips it. It has to do with bonding ground, and that’s the only issue I’m having with my setup..I have a open ground on my AC out. Ground is fine in utility mode, gone on battery. I’m not sure if missing that...

I pretty much followed the basic “all in one” setup, so I assume some must have issues and not know it, since everything seems to work fine. Just tested my AC with multimeter, and got 63V at ground. Tried running a ground wire from GW to utility ground, and that didn’t change anything.

My use will be a permanent style setup, using now in my house,and plan to transfer it to rv in future. Test light is the three neon bulbs, and mine are bright. I’ve watched it switch from utility to battery, and fault light goes off immediately. Thanks for the reply, very informative. I don’t...

Thanks, at level the array sits at 34 degrees, which is my lat. Tilts forward and back 15 degrees. Using pavers to adjust angle, and will put some pea gravel down for ground contact. The 6x6 posts are in concrete. The 70 Degree app makes setting angles a breeze.

First thing in the morning. I imagine I’ll have to send it back for a reprogram of some sort. Thx again for help.

I can almost quote mine, never mentions what to do if your unit skips setting 24?

That may be the solution, if I can’t get access to the setting I need. Thx

Many thanks. That was the reason I chose the GW, I could set it up without a computer. Just go thru the settings one by one? My setup is no different than the many I’ve seen built, so I assume they have same issue and don’t know it. No fault codes show up on GW. Missing setting 24 may be the...

Correct, no grounding box, and never seen one used on a setup. Not sure how to check firmware, manual has version 2.0 on it. I’ll have to contact Signature Solar and check their customer service after the sale I guess. The manual shows this example of dip settings, not sure if mine are correct...

Not to my knowledge. I think my problem is getting to setting #24, which shows up on this guy’s video, but not on mine. I may need to change setting on my dip switch to access it, but can’t find any info on that yet. Thanks for help.

Correct

In utility mode, tester shows good ground through power strip. I lose ground when it switches to battery/solar.

I was mistaken somewhat, as my GW doesn’t have that setting #24 available to me. Mine ends at setting #22.

I have the GW plugged into grid with extension cord. I currently have this setting disabled, as I wasn’t sure what “working with external ground box” meant exactly. The setup vids I saw left it disabled as well, and I’m trying not to experiment ?

Each panel connected by 6ga copper wire, and then to 8ft rod next to array. The ground fault is showing up on the AC out power strip. None of the GW vids I’ve seen show using the ground lug on inverter to ground, so I may try that.

3000 Growatt, 1200w panels, and Gyll batteries all arrived and went together without issue. I had SOK’s on order, but shipping dates kept getting moved. Signature had the Gylls here in 4 days. Ground mount panels can tilt for the season, and the GW setup is the same as a hand truck, only in a...

Can you confirm warranty on these? I’ve heard 10 years, but website only mentions a 1 year on cells/bms..

Great video, thanks for taking the time to do it. Perfect timing, as I have panels,batts, and the 3000 being delivered next week for identical setup. Looking forward to your future vids. If you were leaving unit stationary, and plugged into utility all the time, how/would you ground it? I never...

That was my wonderment, does VDC=VMP..appears you are correct.. found another spec sheet with different numbers, but still use VDC instead of VMP.

My 1220 watts of panels in series have a VOC of 160, and VMP of 129, but I can’t cipher the VDC. The GW says it needs 150 VDC to start, and MPPT range is 120-250 VDC. Not sure how to compute VDC for my panels, as it isn’t mentioned. Besides a brain, what am I missing??

Not sure this is what you need, but looks close. Skip to 10:30 min mark.

Looks good to me? The Seraphim 305w spec sheet didn’t mention temp. I don’t have panels yet to check there. Thanks for info.

In the mid south, so temps of 20 F on occasion. Having 50v left over on the 150/45 should more than cover that. I assume.

Thank you. Max voltage should be 97.3, and at 1220 watts I’m under the 1300w max of the 150/45 at 24v. Thx again.

This is a 24v system, as at 12v these units only support 650/700 watts respectively. When I take the 79.8 VOC and multiply it by the 1.22 for some headroom, I get 97.3v. This seems to cut it close for the 100/50, suggesting the 150/45 is better choice. Correct?