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I am working on the design of my solar roof-mount as well. I am considering just using the inexpensive growatt grid-tie inverter so I can take advantage of net metering. All-in-one is great, but that 18kpv unit is about 4x the cost, so that is why I'm considering a cheaper way of getting solar...

That is a good point. However, considering how cheap it looks like this route will be, I am leaning towards risking a surplus at the end of the year. The only thing I can't get away from is their $35 monthly service fee. But I suppose it's fair given the net metering agreement.

Since my roof space is limited, and I don't have alternative mounting surfaces, I believe I will need to maximize roof utilization if I hope to achieve 100% offset. Signature solar has a nice flat-rate freight shipping price for $5k+ orders, so I may be able to easily add some smaller...

That is a good point about the panels. That and they are 18.5% efficient and the next step up is 20.5% canadian solar 400w panels for $.407/w. My roof layout is triangular so I might try and fit the larger panels. But if they are too bulky, it may turn out I can get more solar on my roof with...

I had a consultation with Sunrun the other day and they quoted $54k for a 11.2kw grid-tie system. That is just insane, and I figured it would be, but still wanted to see what they were offering. The ROI on that is a TOUGH sell. We are fortunate enough to get 1:1 net metering from our utility...

What is a "free nights plan"? Are we talking cell phone minutes or electrical service?

I agree that it would be overkill for golf cart needs. My thought is that if I can fit a large enough battery pack in the golf cart, then it can serve as a substitute for a dedicated solar battery pack.

How did you run the cables for the battery pack? Quick-connect, or more permanent when needed?

I suppose I can dissect my post into two portions: 1. Most interested if anybody who has a golf cart for casual transportation around their community, and also has a solar/inverter/battery setup, has used their golf cart's fairly large battery pack as a "mobile/removeable" energy storage source...

Hmm.. I am not familiar with those nuances. It sounds like more research is in order. It has a 3-phase AC motor rated at 5kw, so I figured a 150-200A bms wouldn't break a sweat

I have a golf cart with a pretty large battery compartment. It currently has 6x 8v lead acid. An idea I am pondering is replacing the exiting batteries with a DIY 320AH 48v Lifepo4 battery pack, and making it accessible as the battery source for a home backup inverter (similar to the F150...

I haven't picked any up, but have recently reconsidered. However it seems that shipping has gone down. They quoted me about $195 freight for 10 panels

The battery's recommended Bulk voltage is 57v, float 56.5, and absorb 56.5v

I'm having issues with my system not charging up the batteries all the way. I suspect it has something to do with the inverter/charger, however their support I believe is in china and I have had very delayed communication with them so I wanted to run it by you guys to see if you have ideas...

Hi Jay, I researched something similar a while back. The most cost-effective solutions seems to be made by Deep Sea Electronics. It is programmable so you can calibrate it to work with your inverter output: https://www.deepseaelectronics.com/genset/manual-auto-start-control-modules/dse3110

Finally have my inverter and battery pack wired and running! Runs both air conditioners (15k & 13.5k btu) with ease at 60% load. I get a quick beep when the second one kicks on from the compressor surge, but I expected that and chose a low frequency inverter so it could handle it. 2x Gyll 48v...

My rv generator has a single phase output that is distributed by two 30A breakers to the nema 14-50 outlet. I selected a single phase inverter so it would be compatible and bypass easily. There are no 240v loads so I have the output bridged for the generator, now being directed to the...

Single phase

Side note: I finished wiring the system earlier and ran it through a few tests. It works great! Easily runs both AC units while only pulling about 36A from the batteries. Kicked on the generator and it went to bypass as well as started recharging the battery pack. I can't wait to add the...

Well I'm sure I look dumb because that clearly addresses my concern. I was going off a downloaded manual from about 6mo ago and they obviously updated it since. I linked to the website link because I figured it was the same manual! :LOL:

I am in the process of wiring up my inverter and batteries. I have heard a lot about ground-neutral bonding and hazards associated with doing it incorrectly. I am having difficulty finding when and why to bond the ground to the neutral. I couldn't find it addressed in my manual, and I assume...

I received the plugs and you are correct! I really appreciate the help! I'm hoping that the header with the pins that are normally soldered into the PCB are large enough to make sufficient contact with the female plug. That is how I hope to extend it. Header pins into existing female plug...

It is an Onan 5500 gas. Standard with the rv

Wow, Great price! Thanks for the link and details!

With all due respect, that is like asking a screw engineer if his screw will work for this application. My father is an engineer and I know when you ask an engineer a question, you get 10-20 questions back (and about as many conditions) before you get your answer. There are too many variables...

Those are some pretty charged statements. We discussed this in another thread to some extent, and I don't see much of a point to doing so here also. But here are my thoughts: Aerodynamics: You speak of a sailboat, which has a sail that is designed to be perpendicular to wind and catch as much...

Well I ordered 3' of the 24 conductor 22awg shielded wire from digikey, and the 2x of the plugs and headers from mouser. So fingers crossed! Thank for all your help and suggestions. I will update with how this approach worked out.

That would be an ideal solution, my only hesitation at this point is that they seem to only have a pcb header to accept the plug and I'm not sure how I would connect the wire to the solder pins. Or can the pcb pins just be stuck into the the plug? Digikey is out of stock on the header, but I'm...

Thanks for all the insight guys. I'm thinking I will just pickup some 25 conductor shielded wire and solder the extension in. I found this and it looks like a good option: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/igus/CF5-05-25/12179394

The main reason I was considering running the whole length is for more adhesive contact area. I'm sure it works, but I'm wanting to consider alternatives since spending $400 on adhesive tape seems crazy to me. That doesn't surprise me about amazon. I've heard some of the weirdest things being...

I am considering using VHB tape for an upcoming project, but am finding that it is quite expensive! For 2" wide it is about $5/ft and I'm going to use potentially 80'. (adhering unistrut to the fiberglass roof of my rv for solar panel mounting) I'm not trying to spend that much on tape, so that...

I am looking to purchase 8-10 panels from santan solar, however shipping comes out to about $25/panel. I can order up to about 20 with the same shipping fee, which would bring shipping down to about $10/panel. Anybody interested in doing a group purchase, shipped to Las Vegas and save on shipping?

Wow, that does look like it. You are a magician, Thanks! My measurements were taken with a cheap digital micrometer and no magnifying glass, so it very well could be 2.0mm. I will check that out

The diagram that the manufacturer supplied didn't seem to scale according to my measurements so I don't have much confidence in sending screws into my roof based off it. I did try out my "Walabot DIY" scanner, a sort of "smart" stud finder that plugs into your phone. Using the roof diagram as...

It is a forest river FR3 32DS. Checking on that manufacturer brochure That's a good idea, although I don't have a FLIR. I have a couple stud finders that I'll give a try