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Yes, thats pretty much all I want to do. Although the reseller was both helpful and kind to point out incompatibilities, it made me believe communication was more or less a necessity for this type BMS. I think I will take another look at that JK ? Sounds like it's a useful option to have...

Actually I'm not sure how important it really is. What options would I be missing out on?

Hello! Been looking to get a JK BMS but (according to reseller) there seems to be some compatibility issues with my inverters protection board and RS485 or CAN communication. How do I know what BMS to get? BMS My EPEVER NP300-22 inverter Batterybank 8x280ah LFP cells.

Is it really cheaper? Looking at 1 pc LFP 24V vs 2 pcs LFP 12V, the prices vary very little. It's likely you already got the batteries by now but if not, I can see no disadvantages with a single 24V.

Hi! I'm also new to solar so take anything I say with a bucket of salt. But, from what I understand, larger gauge wires is more or less required for 12V systems, so that should be fine. You just need to fuse accordingly to, wire, inverter load and battery type. I am a bit sceptical a 1500W...

It was the leads. I crimped on more proper lugs for better connection and now it works as it should. Just goes to show how important a good connection is :)

Thanks, that feels reassuring. I did make my own wires. But I will inspect them to see if they have become faulty somehow.

Thanks for your reply. I was careful not to touch the voltage. Everything looked ok and it dropped down to about 8.3 amps, but then slowly started rising to 8.6. I got worried so I turned the power supply off. Not sure what to do now, if it's damaged or not?

When top balancing individual cell is it normal for the amps to first drop down and then start increasing? Using a 10A 30V bench top power supply with a single 280Ah 3.2V cell. Could the cell be damaged?

8x280Ah battery is what I have. If my English phrasing is not the best is because it's not my first language. This was already mentioned in earlier posts, #9, #12.

Yes. A 225A fuse is out of the question then? Thanks, but I'm in Europe. Unfortunately that company does not ship international. I will have to look somewhere else. No, already have the 24V (LF) 3000W inverter and all plans is for that setup. Anything else was just me using theoretical...

Amazon I see they have a 160A holder, but only ignition protected version I don't need.

Ah, yes. Either way they both make sense, and 150A will be great. So, this is where I run into a bit of a problem. The fuse block (blue sea systems) I 'm looking to buy seem only to take 225A-400A fuses. Is perhaps 225A acceptable for 1/0awg? Sorry about that. It did help me understand things...

Good to know. From a newbie perspective mostly learning by watching videos it's very easy to underestimate how much just one component, i.e what battery chemistry is used, will affect a setup. Thanks for pointing this out to me. Think I dodged a bullet there. Yes, and, yes. Thanks. I got my...

Please help me make sure if I have understood this correcttly. Using a completely different example. 2X12V=24V (AGM), 2000W (HF) inverter, (MRBF) fuse. 2000W/.85//24=98A /.8=122.5A ≈ 125A. Minimum wire/fuse: 6AWG/125A (wire rating 115A max) Medium wire/fuse: 4AWG/150A (wire rating 150A...

Likely as I'm new to DIY solar.

The Class-T fuses that is. Most if not all youtube DIY-ers (I've watched) does not use Class-T (10.000 breaking amps) in similar system to mine.

Ok, excellent. 1/0 awg 250A it is. Sorry, read wrong. Thanks for the info. From what I've seen that leaves out pretty much all other fuses except Class-T. Safety should always come first, hence not smart going cheap on a few fuses. Surprised not more people use them?

This is found in the NP manual. EPEVER support comfirms the BLE adapter supports communication by app and data ecryption to inverter. Will I still need 200-250A BMS or would it still be possible to use the 150A I already have configured by inverter? Sorry, but why 1000A and not recommended...

Ok. Not sure why that is. It's the link from my order and I have 8S. But it should be that typ of BMS anyway. Strange. I will have to look into this more closely.I have not bought that one yet, but If it doesn't work I will go with the Victron suggestion.

Ok. Batteries BMS I think both. Another link

No way of configuring this via epever BLE BT adapter?

Alibaba. I guess it's no way of knowing until I set the system up? Yes. Is class-t a must? They are expensive! JDB BMS

According to manufacturer 290 actual vs 280 rated. EPEVER NP3000-22 Ok. Unfortunately I already have a 150A BMS. Will that risk causing problems even though drawing 3000W occacionally 30-60 minutes?

Sorry if I was a bit unclear. I was reading a recommendation on how to size battery to inverter and 300Ah was said to be the minimum for 3000W. Because I only have 280Ah (3.2V 8S) I'm curious if it's still doable with said inverter. Normally I would go with 2000W but since I need the option for...

Great. Sorry if this sound stupid, but why is minimum 300Ah battery recommended for a 3000W inverter. Is it all about the max contionous draw, and not about powering the inverter?

Thanks for quick answer. Ok. So will a 3000W inverter also work for 2000W or lower contionuously? The reason I'm asking is I want the option for 3000W draw. 150A BMS enough? Not necessarily, I just think it will suit my needs best.

Hi! I'm planning for my 24V LFP 8x280Ah (290Ah) batterybank and wondering if it will be enough for a 3000W LF inverter. 3000W is the absolute max I will use continuously and only for a shorter time, the general draw will be much lower depending on what is used at any given time. I see the...

Not sure I understand. It turns green or red depending on if it's current limiting or voltage limiting decided by the current of the cell? Does that mean it's still charging safely when indicating red, not green? Yes.

@740GLE Found a video of a similar PS.

The indicator showing it's charging. It instantly turnes green when charging but not in this case, only orange/red? Ok. Yes.

I'm about to top balance my 280AH cells individually using a 30V 10A PS. The problem is it doesn't turn green and start charging. I tried it on another battery (50AH) and it works without no problem. Voltage is set 3.65 and A on max. I was going to show a picture of the PS trying this...

Hope it's ok to borrow the thread a little. I'm about to top balance my 280AH cells each individually using a 30V 10A PS. The problem is it doesn't turn green and start charging. I tried it on another battery (50AH) and it works no problem. Voltage is set 3.65 and A on max. Anyone got an idea...

How much should they be expected to drop to resting voltage?

Then it would be fine to connect them in series with BMS ready to use?