diy solar

diy solar

280Ah batterybank and 3000W inverter

This is found in the NP manual.

View attachment 133165
Ok just redo the math with whatever low voltage disconnect you configured.
Lets say you went with 24 volts.
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 amps
147.058823529 amps / .8 fuse headroom = 183.823529412 fuse amps
That means you could go as low as 2 awg with a 200 amp fuse.
I would still suggest 1/0 awg with a 250 amp fuse.
Will I still need 200-250A BMS or would it still be possible to use the 150A I already have cinfigured by inverter?

Sorry, but why 1000A and not recommended 250A?
Its 10,000 amps not 1000 amps.
You are confusing the fuse's trip rating with its breaking capacity.

You want a fuse that will trip at 250 amps with a breaking capacity of ~10,000 amps at no less than 30ish volts.
 
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Ok just redo the math with whatever low voltage disconnect your configured.
Lets say you went with 24 volts.
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 amps
147.058823529 amps / .8 fuse headroom = 183.823529412 fuse amps
That means you could go as low as 2 awg with a 200 amp fuse.
I would still suggest 1/0 awg with a 250 amp fuse.
Ok, excellent. 1/0 awg 250A it is.
Its 10,000 amps not 1000 amps.
You are confusing the fuse's trip rating with its breaking capacity.

You want a fuse that will trip at 250 amps with a breaking capacity of ~10,000 amps at no less than 30ish volts.
Sorry, read wrong. Thanks for the info. From what I've seen that leaves out pretty much all other fuses except Class-T.

Safety should always come first, hence not smart going cheap on a few fuses. Surprised not more people use them?
 
Sorry I don't understand the question.
Assume I'm from another planet.
The Class-T fuses that is.

Most if not all youtube DIY-ers (I've watched) does not use Class-T (10.000 breaking amps) in similar system to mine.
 
The Class-T fuses that is.

Most if not all youtube DIY-ers (I've watched) does not use Class-T (10.000 breaking amps) in similar system to mine.
We must be watching different youtube DIY-ers.
 
Ok just redo the math with whatever low voltage disconnect you configured.
Lets say you went with 24 volts.
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 amps
147.058823529 amps / .8 fuse headroom = 183.823529412 fuse amps
That means you could go as low as 2 awg with a 200 amp fuse.
I would still suggest 1/0 awg with a 250 amp fuse.

Its 10,000 amps not 1000 amps.
You are confusing the fuse's trip rating with its breaking capacity.

You want a fuse that will trip at 250 amps with a breaking capacity of ~10,000 amps at no less than 30ish volts.
Please help me make sure if I have understood this correcttly.

Using a completely different example.

2X12V=24V (AGM), 2000W (HF) inverter, (MRBF) fuse.

2000W/.85//24=98A /.8=122.5A ≈ 125A.

Minimum wire/fuse: 6AWG/125A (wire rating 115A max)
Medium wire/fuse: 4AWG/150A (wire rating 150A max)
Maximum wire/fuse. 2AWG/175A (wire rating 205A max)

In a 6ft run, would 4AWG wire and 150A MRBF fuse be the best option here?

Or using same example above but instead with my 8x280AH LFP cells, 4AWG wire, 200A Class-T fuse and 200A BMS would make sense?

Hope I didn't complicate things to much for myself now ?


Also. Is it optional using single (50mm2) battery wire even if inverter manual says it necessary connecting wires i parallel?

*According to the recommended battery wire size, 2 battery wires, connected in parallel, are necessary
for NP2000-11, NP2500-21, NP2500-22, NP3000-22, and NP4000-22.

(25mm2/3AWG RNB60-10 DC-100A(2P in parallel)
 
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Please help me make sure if I have understood this correcttly.

Using a completely different example.

2X12V=24V (AGM), 2000W (HF) inverter, (MRBF) fuse.
AGM chemistry typically does not require as much breaking capacity as LFP, so MRBF should be fine.
2000W/.85//24=98A /.8=122.5A ≈ 125A.
You have a double forward slash, I think that is just a typo
I guess that this "≈" stands for approximately equal.
Minimum wire/fuse: 6AWG/125A (wire rating 115A max)
Medium wire/fuse: 4AWG/150A (wire rating 150A max)
Maximum wire/fuse. 2AWG/175A (wire rating 205A max)
Assuming ABYC rules and pure copper wire with 105C insulation.
This table shows the max rates.
For the core of the DC system which is generally not in conduit, raceway or bundles I would say this.
6 awg can be fused as high as 100 amps.
4 awg can be fused as high as 150 amps.
2 awg can be fused as high as 200 amps.
In a 6ft run, would 4AWG wire and 150A MRBF fuse be the best option here?
We also have to consider voltage drop.
Usually the core components are close enough together that distance related voltage drop doesn't matter much.
But to be thorough, lets look at the full process.
Since your inverter has configurable low voltage disconnect we can use 24 volts as the low voltage cutoff.
2000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 98.039215686 dc inverter amps
98.039215686 dc inverter amps / .8 fuse headroom = 122.549019608 fuse amps
So the lowest fuse size we could use is 125 amps and the lowest wire size that can accommodate that fuse is 4 awg.

If we plug 98.039215686 amps, 24 volts and 12 feet round trip into the calculator I linked, you get 1.5% voltage drop for marine-rated (105°C dry / 75°C wet) wire.
Up to 3% voltage drop is considered acceptable for the core of the system.
Or using same example above but instead with my 8x280AH LFP cells, 4AWG wire, 200A Class-T fuse and 200A BMS would make sense?
A 200 amps Class t fuse is too large for 4 awg wire.
Remember the max fuse size according to the table above is 150 amps.
For 2x AGM batteries in series an MRBF fuse should be fine.

I'm sorry if the level of detail is overwhelming for you but for the sake of completeness I have been thorough.
Also. Is it optional using single (50mm2) battery wire even if inverter manual says it necessary connecting wires i parallel?

*According to the recommended battery wire size, 2 battery wires, connected in parallel, are necessary
for NP2000-11, NP2500-21, NP2500-22, NP3000-22, and NP4000-22.

(25mm2/3AWG RNB60-10 DC-100A(2P in parallel)
Please show me this in context using a link to the documentation.

25mm2 ~= 4 awg which can be fused as high as 150 amps.
I avoid double cables for many reasons.
One reason is if one of the negative cables becomes detached the other will have to carry the full current which might melt the insulation, possibly leading to fire.
Some manufacturers including Victron seem to recommend this practice but I don't think it is a good idea.

Now for the controversial part.
Its my policy to use the largest fuse size that the wire can accept for wires in the core of the system.
There are some exceptions and complications like in-line passive devices but I consider that out of scope for this discussion.
I just don't see the danger in doing this.
If someone were to describe a plausible failure mode where the lower fuse size would make a difference then I would reassess my position.
The fuse protects the wire not the inverter.
If the branch circuit fuse blows it means either their is a short circuit between the branch fuse and the inverter or that the inverter has suffered an internal fault and is already dead, either way the branch fuse should blow or the inverter should stop passing current.
Most of the non-passive devices we use have their own built-in protection devices, many even have an internal fuse.

I could be wrong but I call it like I see it.

Tagging @Will Prowse
 
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On the other hand...

People especially newbies often use dodgy wire, fuses, busbars, and other balance of system items.
Also they often fail to make quality joinery.
The latter can happen to anybody.
I forgot that I have seen an eyelash under a lug cause a very hot joint in a high current circuit.
Going forward I will make my fusing recommendations more conservatively.
 
AGM chemistry typically does not require as much breaking capacity as LFP, so MRBF should be fine.
Good to know.

From a newbie perspective mostly learning by watching videos it's very easy to underestimate how much just one component, i.e what battery chemistry is used, will affect a setup. Thanks for pointing this out to me. Think I dodged a bullet there.
You have a double forward slash, I think that is just a typo
I guess that this "≈" stands for approximately equal.
Yes, and, yes.
Assuming ABYC rules and pure copper wire with 105C insulation.
This table shows the max rates.
For the core of the DC system which is generally not in conduit, raceway or bundles I would say this.
6 awg can be fused as high as 100 amps.
4 awg can be fused as high as 150 amps.
2 awg can be fused as high as 200 amps.
Thanks. I got my numbers here. Amazon
We also have to consider voltage drop.
Usually the core components are close enough together that distance related voltage drop doesn't matter much.
But to be thorough, lets look at the full process.
Since your inverter has configurable low voltage disconnect we can use 24 volts as the low voltage cutoff.
2000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 98.039215686 dc inverter amps
98.039215686 dc inverter amps / .8 fuse headroom = 122.549019608 fuse amps
So the lowest fuse size we could use is 125 amps and the lowest wire size that can accommodate that fuse is 4 awg.

If we plug 98.039215686 amps, 24 volts and 12 feet round trip into the calculator I linked, you get 1.5% voltage drop for marine-rated (105°C dry / 75°C wet) wire.
Up to 3% voltage drop is considered acceptable for the core of the system.
So, if voltage drop stays under 3% it should not change calculated wire-fuse parameters much?

A 200 amps Class t fuse is too large for 4 awg wire.
Remember the max fuse size according to the table above is 150 amps.
For 2x AGM batteries in series an MRBF fuse should be fine.

I'm sorry if the level of detail is overwhelming for you but for the sake of completeness I have been thorough.
Would it be better to size up to 2AWG or keep 4AWG and fuse 150A?

Please don't be. Even though it's a bit overwhelming your thorough explanations is also very clear and much appreciated.

Please show me this in context using a link to the documentation.
Of course. Page.18 in this manual.
25mm2 ~= 4 awg which can be fused as high as 150 amps.
I avoid double cables for many reasons.
One reason is if one of the negative cables becomes detached the other will have to carry the full current which might melt the insulation, possibly leading to fire.
Some manufacturers including Victron seem to recommend this practice but I don't think it is a good idea.
I was thinking the same thing. Feels more risky when doing own crimping with more basic tools.
Now for the controversial part.
Its my policy to use the largest fuse size that the wire can accept for wires in the core of the system.
There are some exceptions and complications like in-line passive devices but I consider that out of scope for this discussion.
I just don't see the danger in doing this.
If someone were to describe a plausible failure mode where the lower fuse size would make a difference then I would reassess my position.
The fuse protects the wire not the inverter.
If the branch circuit fuse blows it means either their is a short circuit between the branch fuse and the inverter or that the inverter has suffered an internal fault and is already dead, either way the branch fuse should blow or the inverter should stop passing current.
Most of the non-passive devices we use have their own built-in protection devices, many even have an internal fuse.
I could be wrong but I call it like I see it.
Thanks for this input.
 
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So, if voltage drop stays under 3% it should not change calculated wire-fuse parameters much?
if the voltage drop exceeds 3% you should increase the wire size.
Would it be better to size up to 2AWG or keep 4AWG and fuse 150A?
Bigger wire is generally better.
The old me would have said upgrade to 2 awg and a 200 amp fuse.
The new me says upgrade to 2 awg and stick with a 150amp fuse.
Of course. Page.18 in this manual.
Ok so now we are talking about a 3000 watt inverter again.
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 inverter dc amps
147.058823529 inverter dc amps / .8 fuse headroom = 183.823529412 fault amps

Ok the manual calls for double 4 awg and a double pole 100 amp fuse.
Presumable 1 pole for each positive wire.
Which would give 200 amps fault current if both wires were perfectly resistance matched.
In the real world this doesn't really happen.
One wire will pull more and the other less.

The minimum you could use is a single 2 awg wire with a to a 200amp fuse.
Better would be a single 1/0 awg circuit with a 200 amp fuse.
People tell me that the manual should be considered.
But because they recommend double wires I take the manual with a grain of salt.
I was thinking the same thing. Feels more risky when doing own crimping with more basic tools.
You made this confusing by adding a hypothetical system in addition to the real system.
Going forward lets talk about one system.
We should talk about the overall topology.
If you are interested let me know.
 
if the voltage drop exceeds 3% you should increase the wire size.
Ah, yes.
Bigger wire is generally better.
The old me would have said upgrade to 2 awg and a 200 amp fuse.
The new me says upgrade to 2 awg and stick with a 150amp fuse.
Either way they both make sense, and 150A will be great.
Ok so now we are talking about a 3000 watt inverter again.
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 inverter dc amps
147.058823529 inverter dc amps / .8 fuse headroom = 183.823529412 fault amps

Ok the manual calls for double 4 awg and a double pole 100 amp fuse.
Presumable 1 pole for each positive wire.
Which would give 200 amps fault current if both wires were perfectly resistance matched.
In the real world this doesn't really happen.
One wire will pull more and the other less.

The minimum you could use is a single 2 awg wire with a to a 200amp fuse.
Better would be a single 1/0 awg circuit with a 200 amp fuse.
People tell me that the manual should be considered.
But because they recommend double wires I take the manual with a grain of salt.
So, this is where I run into a bit of a problem. The fuse block (blue sea systems) I 'm looking to buy seem only to take 225A-400A fuses. Is perhaps 225A acceptable for 1/0awg?
You made this confusing by adding a hypothetical system in addition to the real system.
Going forward lets talk about one system.
We should talk about the overall topology.
If you are interested let me know.
Sorry about that. It did help me understand things better. Thank you for explaining.

For sure. Appreciate your feedback.
 
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Ah, yes.

Either way they both make sense, and 150A will be great.

So, this is where I run into a bit of a problem. The fuse block (blue sea systems) I 'm looking to buy seem only to take 225A-400A fuses. Is perhaps 225A acceptable for 1/0awg?

Sorry about that. It did help me understand things better. Thank you for explaining.

For sure. Appreciate your feedback.
Please provide a product link to the fuse block
 
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Have you settled on a the 24 volt 2000 watt epever inverter with configurable low voltage disconnect?
 
Earlier in the thread you indicated you will have an 8s 280ah battery.
What BMS will you use?
 
According to the link the fuse holder can accept fuses from 225 amps to 400 amps.
It also says fuse not included.

This one is fuse and holder https://www.donrowe.com/TFB2-250-250A-Class-T-Fuse-Kit-p/tfb2-250.htm
UPDATE: please check with donrowe to make sure it is both fuse and holder.
Yes. A 225A fuse is out of the question then?

Thanks, but I'm in Europe. Unfortunately that company does not ship international. I will have to look somewhere else.
Have you settled on a the 24 volt 2000 watt epever inverter with configurable low voltage disconnect?
No, already have the 24V (LF) 3000W inverter and all plans is for that setup. Anything else was just me using theoretical examples. Again. Sorry for creating the confusion.
Earlier in the thread you indicated you will have an 8s 280ah battery.
What BMS will you use?
That's what I have.

I will order another BMS with specs you recommend earlier, and sell the 150A I already have.
 
Yes. A 225A fuse is out of the question then?

Thanks, but I'm in Europe. Unfortunately that company does not ship international. I will have to look somewhere else.

No, already have the 24V (LF) 3000W inverter and all plans is for that setup. Anything else was just me using theoretical examples. Again. Sorry for creating the confusion.
3000 ac watts / .85 conversion factor / 24 volts low cutoff = 147.058823529 inverter amps
147.058823529 inverter amps / .8 fuse headroom = 183.823529412 fuse amps.
The 225 amp fuse will be fine.
Assuming you don't any significant pure dc loads.
That's what I have.
What?
You are hard to follow.
I will order another BMS with specs you recommend earlier, and sell the 150A I already have.
What 150A BMS do you already have?
 
What?
You are hard to follow.

What 150A BMS do you already have?
8x280Ah battery is what I have. If my English phrasing is not the best is because it's not my first language.

This was already mentioned in earlier posts, #9, #12.
 
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