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This is the first time ive had a load this big, no issues for awhile. Yes. 3.3 and 3.2 That must be an error, i have balance set to 3.45

Bare hands

The bolts are on with as much torque as my hands can produce without struggle or pain, maybe thats the issue. No voltage mismatches either, i doubled checked with multimeter, maybe it only shows problems with high charge and discharge?

Cell voltages checked at rest, all good, and connections were all solid. Could not pull anything out with slight tug.

See attached. I did top balance and added pic of battery and bus bar specs

I am getting massive, volt large voltage swings with my overkill solar 48v bms when charging 25a from my chargeverter. I am charging with 57v 25a from my chargeverter. Bms: https://overkillsolar.com/product/bms-100a-16s-lifepo4-12/ Chargeverter...

I have tried everything with this setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C49VBS3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://signaturesolar.com/eg4-chargeverter-battery-charger-48v-100a-5120w-output-240/120v-input?ref=cPwLcVc0SW-BjN Trying to get the chargeverter to work with 120v. It shows...

I want it to track horizontally so no sadly If it comes down to it ill just build it on the ground like a normal person :(

Looking for camper experts as well as solar experts here: I have an idea to mount 2.8kw of panels on a camper roof, but i want them to be adjustable in both axis. Moving the camper is not a option as i want maximum output without having to move it every hour. I live in Alaska and in winter you...

So the idea is to get something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-17000-BTU-Diesel-Air-Heater-5KW-15L-Tank-Diesel-Parking-Heater-with-LCD-Switch-for-RV-Bus-Motor-Home-and-Boats-ZCJRQ12V5KW20JT01V0/319873758 And run it on full blast a few minutes before shut down and have the exhaust...

I am trying find a diesel heater that wont stink up the place with bad smells that i can run with my 48v system. It needs to be able to be shipped to alaska. Suggestions? I heard marine grade diesel heaters don't make a bad smell, but I am looking at all- in - one units here. Do i have to...

even when accounting for that 151.2 number being the short circuit voltage of the panels?

I have a 48v 16s battery with this charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HHP9N8P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It says its rated for 60 amps, however it says the wattage max is only 2800w with a 160v input max. My panels are 6.5 open circuit amps with 21.6v...

Thanks much guys, I'm getting a expected 10% output on a rainy day.

Just now hooking everything up, will do with just one spark. Will cover panels with tarp before connecting them as well

Just now hooking everything up, will do with just one spark. Will cover panels with tarp before connecting

But isnt wiring solar panels to a charge controller without a battery a bad idea? Something about burning out the charge controller?

Will it make a spark when connecting panels too? How to stop that?

Every time i hook up my makeskyblue 60 amp solar charge controller to my 250 amp dally bms it sparks. The bms turns on and everything seems ok, but i heard that sparking is bad. I have tried pre charging it with a resistor to no avail. The machine shuts off seconds later and then sparks again...

I am preparing to connect my 5000w pure sine inverter to my 250a dally bms. (48v battery) Is there any procedure I should follow to ensure max success? Everything is working and connected correctly, minus the + of battery to the + of inverter.

Could you post a link to a 48v 16s version from amazon? I'm having trouble finding a "JK BMS" for less then 1000$. Im in alaska so shipping is a horrendous process, hence the amazon thing.

I would like to hear you guy's recommendations of a bms you own. Sturdiness and reliability are my most important factors. In the market for one. EDIT: Could you post a link to a 48v 16s version from amazon? I'm having trouble finding a "JK BMS" for less then 1000$. Im in alaska so shipping is...

Polarity is fine on all cells and i re inserted the temp sensor. No dice, same readings. Am going to buy a new one. Does overkill solar ship to alaska?

The cells are not that voltage, i checked. 3.28V. I also re did the balance wires, and they are ok. Look under the images in main post for this information. Its now reading 0 volts on all battery cells and a -40 C temp. I think this bms is done, ill try once more tomorrow.

Its now showing -40c temps and 0 volts for all cells, I do think i fried it.

Made the update to main post in case anyone else wants to follow along. Screenshots included.

Whenever i hook up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G32Q2W8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details To 16 of: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BJJN9HJQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this...

This this bus bar; sub par? Was wondering if I should just get standard m4 connectors since they are circle shaped and thus contact more of the battery terminal. Also if you post recommendations post a link to where i can buy

Two chargers of different types. One is for solar panels the other is for a wind turbine. Different amps, but the cap on both is less then the max amps the battery can take. Still ok?

Two questions Is there any downside to using different spec bus bars to make a 48v lifepo4 battery? 3.2v 280ah. Is there any potential downside to using a solar charge controller and also a wind turbine charge controller hooked up to the same battery/system? Keep in mind the above controllers...