Shale MacGregor
Solar Enthusiast
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2021
- Messages
- 641
Within the next few years I figure we will get close to 150 or 175, more and more of the world runs on Dunkin.We do too in summertime
Within the next few years I figure we will get close to 150 or 175, more and more of the world runs on Dunkin.We do too in summertime
Have you looked into "passive house" designs? Basically super insulated houses where air intake for aircirculation is being cooled or heated underground before it enters your home.I am about to build a new house that will be all electric, so it will be interesting to see how much the usage changes. The house will be slightly smaller (2400 vs 2800) and single story vs two (current). Hopefully the build quality being better and more energy efficient will offset moving from gas oven/range, water heater, force air heating, but I get the feeling I am going to end up with a solar farm on my roof I think I have room for about 18kw of panels if I plan it correctly.
I have not. I live in Central Texas and cold is generally not a concern except maybe a couple of months (Jan-Feb) or a freak snowmeggegon like this year. We live on AC most of the year.Have you looked into "passive house" designs? Basically super insulated houses where air intake for aircirculation is being cooled or heated underground before it enters your home.
I have read claims of houses in freezing regions being able to stay warm with just waste heat from normal appliances
greatly improved insulation works to keep cold inside alsoI have not. I live in Central Texas and cold is generally not a concern except maybe a couple of months (Jan-Feb) or a freak snowmeggegon like this year. We live on AC most of the year.
I'm a solar installer up here in Maine. I highly recommend installing a common standing seam metal roof. You will be able to easily install safety, if you're using it, and feet for the rails go up quickly. If you use SIPS with an asphalt roof, you'll have to screw into the SIPS itself with something like zillarac. They are good, but they are heavy, expensive, harder to install, and...more. I also recommend Ironridge rails and UFO fasteners. Just some unsolicited advice!We're building a SIP house, 10" walls, 12" roof.
awesome advice! we just received our standing seam roof (24ga) yesterday, and it's due to be installed next week. what would you recommend for fastening the rail to the roof seam?I'm a solar installer up here in Maine. I highly recommend installing a common standing seam metal roof. You will be able to easily install safety, if you're using it, and feet for the rails go up quickly. If you use SIPS with an asphalt roof, you'll have to screw into the SIPS itself with something like zillarac. They are good, but they are heavy, expensive, harder to install, and...more. I also recommend Ironridge rails and UFO fasteners. Just some unsolicited advice!
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Regarding passive houses, one issue to be mindful with their super sealed construction is indoor air quality and carbon dioxide build up, for which there are solutions.
agree important awareRegarding passive houses, one issue to be mindful with their super sealed construction is indoor air quality and carbon dioxide build up, for which there are solutions.
love these technologies!Mechanical ventilation with energy/heat recovery. These things have been standard here in Finland for decades.
If it's not to late see if they can install a layer of Enka mat or something similiar between the metal and your membrane.awesome advice! we just received our standing seam roof (24ga) yesterday, and it's due to be installed next week. what would you recommend for fastening the rail to the roof seam?
I bet there is a lot of variance depending on the region you are in as well. What works in Texas, may or may not work in Alaska. I don't even know how people live with a frost line that goes down 4-6 feet or more or where you have to worry about snow load on your roof.I just want to offer that for the OP, adding more layers may not be cost effective or desirable.
Here in BC, Canada on the coastal areas it rains lots. We had close to 12 inches in 24 hrs on the weekend and close to 41 inches since Oct 1st.It is true that regional weather can affect design but actually, using an external vapor barrier and putting all the insulation on the outside of the structure will work in any region in the world. The system was developed by Neal Hutcheon and Gus Handegord in the 50s and it can't be beat. Danged Canadians really knew their stuff when it came to building science and building enclosures.
My Arizona summer energy peak usage was 71kwh in a day. Hoping to lower my bill substantially with solar project in the horizon. Keeping track of your progress.Yes it did. I like to see the thought process behind these calculations as it gives me (and hopefully others) food for thought. I have 6kw and I am into it for about $150/kw, so it is good to see less expensive options.
Last month was my lowest bill ever at 12.61kw per day. My house is a two story 2800sqft, but I will be downsizing to a single story 1500ish house soon. Hoping I can reduce that number by a lot. I really didn't pay much attention until late last year when I got into solar. I routinely pull 45-50kw a day in summer here in Texas with the heat, so it will be a challenge even in the smaller house, but I am hoping to mitigate that a bit with as much solar as I can squeeze into 2 acres.
The SIP panels that make up our roof are 12-1/4" thick. The EPS foam that cores the panels makes for some pretty good noise insulation. Our roofing goes up this coming Tuesday, but we've had some hard rain in the week since the panels have gone up. I went out to listen to the noise, and TBH, it's pretty negligible as-is.If it's not to late see if they can install a layer of Enka mat or something similiar between the metal and your membrane.
This will help cut a lot of the noise when it rains hard. and allows for air to circulate and cuts down on condensation on the underside
of the metal roof.