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120v Solar from Inverter to Fuse Box? +Short Circuit light on Inverter?

Gravity2424

New Member
Joined
May 6, 2023
Messages
14
Location
Tennessee
I also posted this in beginners corner I hope that’s okay.
So my girlfriend and I bought a van and I’m fairly sure I got everything as far as the controller (EP Solar MPPT Solar Charger)/ inverter (2000 watt sure-sine wave) /solar battery (2 parallel 200Ah Renogy batteries) set up correctly. I’m now trying to hook up the 120v appliances to be able to use them on solar if we want to and I don’t want to mess anything up so that’s why I’m here.

My understanding is that I need to hook a wire from my inverter to the correct hookup in my fuse box (see pictures) and it’s as simple as that? I believe the original owner had a wire already running from the fuse box to where our batteries are. This connection is what you see in the photo with the green arrow. I plan on cutting that wire and stripping it so it isn’t so frayed and then with the other end, should I put a kill switch in the wire and just use an eyelet to connect it to the positive on my inverter (end of that wire is the photo of it in my hand)? Sorry about the wires being kind of a mess, there is a method to the madness.

Lastly, I have a faint light coming on my inverter when I switch it on that says short circuit and I cannot figure out where it could possibly be coming from and I’m sure that isn’t safe if I’m trying to hook 120v up through it.

Also if you have any comments about the rest of the system would love to hear it, no experience whatsoever with any of this I would love to have any suggestions. Thanks!
 

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Where you are showing the green arrow with the automotive blade fuses is your DC fuse box. The battery connection is here and the various fuses feed the 12v appliances in the RV. Do not connect the Inverter AC output here.

The complete Installion of the batteries, solar controller and Inverter is a dangerous unsafe mess. All cables in a RV should be multi strand automotive or marine grade to withstand vibration. Solid copper wire is not recomended.
The batteries need fixing down to prevent movement and fuses are required. At or very near to the battery positive, fuses are needed in the feed to the inverter, the solar controller and the 12v DC fuse box. Buss bars are useful.
Feeding the inverter AC output to the RV AC outlets is complex.
Read the manual for your inverter and until you get expert advice do not attempt to connect the AC output to any part of your RV.
You can use AC appliances by pluging Into the AC outlets on the inverter.
An Internet search will show numerous examples of RV electrical systems, they may not be exactly as your situation but should give helpful information.

Mike
 
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Thanks Mike for the help. We’ve been doing a lot of work in the van the last couple months or so and hasn’t left the driveway so that’s why you don’t see the straps on the batteries quite yet. Building a bench/platform around the batteries that I’ve finished but took apart to stain/finish the wood. I was also thinking about using a little piece of scrap wood only about an inch thick to separate the two batteries so they won’t be pushed up against one another. Is this a good idea or no? I am going to be rewiring the system with some heavier duty wiring and I had a similar response to my other thread in the beginner forum but I also attached a picture of the wiring here so hopefully you can help. I have some of the multi stranded copper wiring but wasn’t sure if this is what you meant of if it has to be the thin hairlike strands. Also wondering if you recommend the ground wire coming out of the controller grounded to the frame of the vehicle be thicker multi strand as well as I have a hard time getting to where the original wire is bolted to the frame. Thanks for the advice, I guess I won’t be messing with the 120v until I get some professional advice but thinking about getting a new controller that has a rated battery current of 30A as this one is only 10A.
Also I do have a fuse that goes from the positive on the battery to the inverter but the fuse is only 30A. Would you recommend a different fuse?
 

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The 2000 watt inverter at full power will pull around 180 amps from the battery. This needs a 200 amp fuse and suitable cable.
As I suggested all cable should be multi fine stranded copper, automotive or marine grade. Termination lugs need crimping to the cable.
The cable shown is not really suitable long term, OK for testing, but could suffer fatigue in a mobile application. With cable use only copper, there is a lot of copper coated aluminium about.
To select suitable cable use this,

The cable connecting the batteries and to the frame should be at least equal to the cables feeding the inverter.
It's probable you don't have equipment to crimp termination lugs on the heavy duty cables, you may find a local company to make up cables for you, or purchace a hydraulic crimp tool,
To implement a more reliable connection point consider buss bars.
This reduces the connections to the battery posts.
The picture also shows how the fuses are installed. Note the fuse from the battery before the isolation switch, the 3 fuses feeding parts of the system and the fuse feeding the inverter.
Note also how the cables are fixed against movement.

In your Instalation you will need the battery fuse, say 250 amps, the Inverter fuse, 200 amps, and the 12v distribution feed fuse say 50 amps.
Batteries need hold down clamps or similar.

Mike
 
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