1st time planning to power window ac unit (midea 8k btu U shaped ac)

[Scrugs]

The p3 international kill a watt monitor shows max of 410 watts on the coldest temp and highest fan speed. The manufacturer states 710 watts. I supposed their may be different conditions that may cause higher watt usage or the kill a watt monitor may not be that accurate.

 

[Scrugs]

So assuming the 710 is the max and accurate, then would only need two solar panels and small inverter and possibly no battery. I am looking to learn about solar and the components with a small experiment for this little ac with no start up surge.

 

[Scrugs]

instead of looking at if from the perspective to ensure the little no surge ac has power 24/7. I am looking at it from the other perspective which is how to power the little ac directly from the sun and when the sun is out from the minimum solar equipment (when the sun is gone it is ok if it does not have power ). Then I need some type of manual switch or just different plug to manually switch it back to grid socket.

I figure this way I will learn the different components to solar much better.

Then the next project a little bigger.

Unit I have the experience and confidence to build a large system like what you all are probably thinking about.

 

[Scrugs]

How to verify the reading from the kill a watt monitor. I guess I need a known power consumption to test it against to see the differences. But I don’t know how to accomplish that at the moment.

 

[Scrugs]

Oh, this guy’s video is about testing the power consumption of the same midea 8000 Btu ac that I have.
He is using a portable jackery battery unit to power the little ac.

On high he gets around 400 watts in the eco mode. It never went over 500 watts.
Low fan speed he gets around 300 watts 275 watts still blowing cold air.

Summary he says mid 300 s to mid to low 400s in watts.
On low fan he is at 300 watt range.

This confirms my little kill a watt is in the ball park, because at the highest fan and coldest temp I got a max of 410 watts.

 

[zanydroid]

instead of looking at if from the perspective to ensure the little no surge ac has power 24/7. I am looking at it from the other perspective which is how to power the little ac directly from the sun and when the sun is out from the minimum solar equipment (when the sun is gone it is ok if it does not have power ). Then I need some type of manual switch or just different plug to manually switch it back to grid socket.

You’re going to need a lot more panels to operate battery less. Unless you are happy with a proof of concept where it runs for 10 min in a perfect hand crafted situation.

If you want a simple, non intimidating starting point, the solar generators with a battery may make more sense. But you may have to throw it away/repurpose it for something else

Buying panels one at a time is only efficient locally or with maybe RV sized panels that somehow ship for free from Amazon and Walmart.

Hypothetically are you ok with trying a small scale system that glitched and fails badly, for learning. Or do you want to follow things that cost more and have higher chance of success, but your incomplete knowledge of solar fails to tell you that is necessary (but folks on the forum say you need)

 

[Scrugs]

Hi, thanks for reading and commenting !!

 

[Scrugs]

My goal is to purchase something that will work and can be used with a bigger system. For example I was thinking about the aptos 370 w or higher solar panels. These could be used with a bigger system. I am also considered getting a lifepo4 battery ( I will try to find a used one). So yes I want it to work and plan for it to work.

And learn along the way from you all.

I am complete newbie at this

 

[Scrugs]

I noticed there are small 48v inverters on the market like the aims power 1000 watt 48v pure sine inverter with 2000 watt surge which costs around $300.

To be able to use the equipment on a bigger system, I guess I need to stay in the 48 v systems and do not go to 12 v systems.

 

[Scrugs]

You’re going to need a lot more panels to operate battery less. Unless you are happy with a proof of concept where it runs for 10 min in a perfect hand crafted situation.

If you want a simple, non intimidating starting point, the solar generators with a battery may make more sense. But you may have to throw it away/repurpose it for something else

Buying panels one at a time is only efficient locally or with maybe RV sized panels that somehow ship for free from Amazon and Walmart.

Hypothetically are you ok with trying a small scale system that glitched and fails badly, for learning. Or do you want to follow things that cost more and have higher chance of success, but your incomplete knowledge of solar fails to tell you that is necessary (but folks on the forum say you need)

I am ok to buy up to 10 panels, as I think that would be one string on a larger system and I also have the space to place them in my back yard on ground mount type of system. Also I am ok to buy a lifepo4 battery. It does not have to be without a battery.

 

[Cabin Rising]

So far you have worked out the very basic needs to run that A/C from 4 to 6 hours during the summer months when the sun is out with no clouds. Now what about the other 18-20 hours?

 

[740GLE]

I noticed there are small 48v inverters on the market like the aims power 1000 watt 48v pure sine inverter with 2000 watt surge which costs around $300.

To be able to use the equipment on a bigger system, I guess I need to stay in the 48 v systems and do not go to 12 v systems.

Little inverters like that are usually stand alone powering a circuit, you can’t add more inverters to increase capacity to feed say a sub panel feeding more circuits.

It’s tough to scale and add on at a later date.

With that kilowatt meter, another thing to keep an eye on isn’t just Watts, but VA or volt amps, or power factor.

If you do a reading of VA, you’ll prob see something closer to the 700VA, a PF of say 70%. Higher quality inverters are able to handle lower power factor.