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400w schematic review! Safety check!

AliVT

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Joined
Aug 31, 2023
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3
Location
Vermont, USA
First build! Thanks for the help!
One note, my inverter came with 3ft of 4awg doubled up. I plan on shortening it to reach my ANL fuse then use the rest to connect my batteries to the system.
Thanks for the feedback and help!
 

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And 50a is WWAAYY overkill for your panels, try a 15a instead, that'll be plenty.

+1 on the Class-T fuse, $60 with 150a fuse and holder at donrowe.com Replace that 200a on the batteries with the Class-T and replace the 150a ANL with a bus bar. That'll make life much simpler.

8awg from the panels and 4awg from the controller are about twice the size you need for that short of a run. You can easily use 12AWG and 8AWG respectively.

Likewise 8awg is going to be more than plenty to the 12v fuse block. You can use 10awg there and be OK but 8 gives you a little headroom.

Your paired 4awg wires can be replaced with a 2awg just fine.
 
My understanding is that an expensive T class fuse at the battery is not necessary for a 12v system. If so, I would use a less expensive MRBF fuse at the battery. Does anybody disagree.
 
And 50a is WWAAYY overkill for your panels, try a 15a instead, that'll be plenty.

+1 on the Class-T fuse, $60 with 150a fuse and holder at donrowe.com Replace that 200a on the batteries with the Class-T and replace the 150a ANL with a bus bar. That'll make life much simpler.

8awg from the panels and 4awg from the controller are about twice the size you need for that short of a run. You can easily use 12AWG and 8AWG respectively.

Likewise 8awg is going to be more than plenty to the 12v fuse block. You can use 10awg there and be OK but 8 gives you a little headroom.

Your paired 4awg wires can be replaced with a 2awg just fine.
-15a in-line, Check! will do
-150a class T and a bus bar, check and check... will to that too.
-For the wiring sizes between the panels and the charge controller I used the wire size chart in the artice "Choosing the right wire size" from windy nation. I have to run my wires for about 14' @ 11.12A once all my panel wires hit my branch connectors (5.56A before). The chart lead me to believe I shouldn't run 15A (rounding up) more than about 7' on 10awg. My solution was to run longer 10awg tails carrying the 5.56A and to have a shorter run of 8awg (which, according to the chart, should handle 15A up to 12'). Assuming I did my math right for the series-parallel amps? Not arguing with you, just trying to let you see where I got my info.
-is there any reason I shouldn't use the double 4awg? The inverter came with a 3' run of double 4awg wire which I was going to shorten and use the remainder for my battery connections. trying to reuse as many parts as I can to save $$. I am cannibalizing the previous owners system and I have an abundance of 4awg. So I am trying to use there where ever I can.
 
Go for the double run if you've already got the cable. (y) (y)

I have to run my wires for about 14' @ 11.12A once all my panel wires hit my branch connectors (5.56A before). The chart lead me to believe I shouldn't run 15A (rounding up) more than about 7' on 10awg. My solution was to run longer 10awg tails carrying the 5.56A and to have a shorter run of 8awg (which, according to the chart, should handle 15A up to 12'). Assuming I did my math right for the series-parallel amps? Not arguing with you, just trying to let you see where I got my info.
Aaahhh, I usually use the BlueSea Ampacity Chart when sizing, about 1 size different. It says 10awg would be plenty from panels to controller with a 3% drop.

Just trying to save you money on copper and crimps.

My understanding is that an expensive T class fuse at the battery is not necessary for a 12v system. If so, I would use a less expensive MRBF fuse at the battery. Does anybody disagree.
It's all about breaking current gap as I understand it. On a smaller 100Ah the MRBF may be fine, but when you short a 300Ah battery it's a LOT more boom! My nephew learned first hand what happens when you short 2 cells with a wrench.
 
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