48v has damaged my SCC?

[jamiegreen]

Well here's an annoying one, I've run a Morningstar TriStar MPPT 60a on a 24v system for a couple years now with no problems.

I decommissioned the system for about 3 days whilst upgrading to 48v, and then flicked the dip switch on the SCC to 48v and connected that too.

No life whatsoever, well maybe a very dimly lit red LED. Upon switching it off and on a couple times it did indeed work, and then turning the solar on it did charge - but also along with a very loud high pitch whining noise. Switching it on now is random whether it's going to work or just not come on at all..


Update:
Morningstar support have confirmed my purchase through one of their trusted international distributers (Once I remembered where I purchased the unit and was able to provide an invoice). They have offered to send me out a new unit completely free of charge. Big thanks to the support team and forum members who have helped.

I've opened it up but haven't found anything obviously burnt out or damaged.. I attached some photos, I'll give it to a local repair shop next week and see if they have any ideas with it. The odd thing being it seems to boot up fine if I try it on 12v or 24v batteries.

 

[Solar Guppy]

Select the dip switch to Auto and see if that resolves your issue.



My understanding is these switches are only used for the built-in charging profiles ( I was part of the development team ) but this was back in 2009 so there could have been changes since.

Additionally, I have never heard of them not repairing a unit before, you may wish to reach out again and request to have a supervisor review the case. It's a very small company, ~40 people and has had one of the best user support in the industry.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

Yeah. I'd be pushing hard on the fact that the purchase date is still inside the 5 year warranty period. I don't think they get to let a unit sit on the self for five years, sell it and then say it's out of warranty if it's DOA to the customer.

 

[yodamota]

yes solar guppy beat me to it. try the auto function.

 

[jamiegreen]

Select the dip switch to Auto and see if that resolves your issue.

View attachment 164477

My understanding is these switches are only used for the built-in charging profiles ( I was part of the development team ) but this was back in 2009 so there could have been changes since.

Additionally, I have never heard of them not repairing a unit before, you may wish to reach out again and request to have a supervisor review the case. It's a very small company, ~40 people and has had one of the best user support in the industry.

I have also tried the auto voltage selection but this didn't show any difference to the selected 48v. And yes the next 3 switches are for charging profiles, I have mine set to custom as I run lifepo4, but have tried a different profile just to check but that didn't help either.


Admittedly I was a bit disappointed with the final response, I am in the UK but I'd happily pay the shipping costs back and fourth, I don't mind paying for the repair if it's a sensible figure. Maybe it would help if I could find the purchase invoice. I can't think of any way it could have been damaged, I strictly follow all the correct procedures and it was stored appropriately. Perhaps I'll send them another email.

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I have also tried the auto voltage selection but this didn't show any difference to the selected 48v. And yes the next 3 switches are for charging profiles, I have mine set to custom as I run lifepo4, but have tried a different profile just to check but that didn't help either.


Admittedly I was a bit disappointed with the final response, I am in the UK but I'd happily pay the shipping costs back and fourth, I don't mind paying for the repair if it's a sensible figure. Maybe it would help if I could find the purchase invoice. I can't think of any way it could have been damaged, I strictly follow all the correct procedures and it was stored appropriately. Perhaps I'll send them another email.

I think with proof of purchase, they'll have a hard time denying warranty. If you didn't already provide that, the only thing they have to go on is manufacturing date.

 

[Hedges]

24 vs. 48V battery, still work at 24V?

What is PV array voltage?
I haven't used these, but of course PV voltage has to be above battery (for most SCC) to do anything (other than configure for battery voltage.)

 

[yodamota]

I don't have my ms view open right now. I wonder why you need to know the battery voltage in order to have it set to custom. In more coherent terms. What if you had it set to 24v but set the custom charge profile at what your 48 v requires. I do not know if this will work. I am just thinking out loud.

Or is the problem that once its connected to the 48v battery it will not start up?

I wonder what would happen if you had it set to 48v with the dip switches, than powered it with 24v. Would it come on?

 

[jamiegreen]

I think with proof of purchase, they'll have a hard time denying warranty. If you didn't already provide that, the only thing they have to go on is manufacturing date.

I think so but I'm having a hard time finding it as I believe it was a US import and my purchase history doesn't seem to go back that far, hopefully I can find the paper invoice or work out how to look back further.

Of course I don't want to show the company in a negative way here, I've been recommended these controllers by friends who have run them for 10+ years with no problems, and mine was running fine for the period I've used it and I've found it brilliant. I get it, electronics do just fail sometimes. It would be nice if they could just take a look at it and tell me what the problem is though.

 

[yodamota]

Now having open msview I don't think what I suggested will work....

 

[Hedges]

Data sheet and manual, I find no mention of minimum PV voltage needed for MPPT or startup.

What is your PV input voltage?

 

[jamiegreen]

Now having open msview I don't think what I suggested will work....

Afraid not, aside from I don't *think* it would be a software issue, the MSview figures are set at 12v and the program doubles that value for each voltage after if I recall.

 

[jamiegreen]

Data sheet and manual, I find no mention of minimum PV voltage needed for MPPT or startup.

What is your PV input voltage?

PV input voltage is around 75v, but the issue of the unit not wanting to boot up is before solar is even connected, as following the order of battery first, solar after.

 

[yodamota]

So I assume the battery(48v) is working otherwise?

 

[jamiegreen]

So I assume the battery(48v) is working otherwise?

Yes all is well, batteries are fine and new inverter is running. I've got the generator topping the batteries up for now but with the new battery bank it lasts a good while. But this is my only source of power, I have no grid connection so getting this fixed is obviously a high priority for me.

 

[Solar Guppy]

Until you have a solution, you can directly connect / disconnect manually the solar. While not as efficient as using the charge controller, you should get about 75% of the energy you would with the controller, but you need to keep an eye on the batteries voltage to prevent tripping the BMS in your batteries.

 

[pistol113]

Well here's an annoying one, I've run a Morningstar TriStar MPPT 60a on a 24v system for a couple years now with no problems.

I decommissioned the system for about 3 days whilst upgrading to 48v, and then flicked the dip switch on the SCC to 48v and connected that too.

No life whatsoever, well maybe a very dimly lit red LED. Upon switching it off and on a couple times it did indeed work, and then turning the solar on it did charge - but also along with a very loud high pitch whining noise. Switching it on now is random whether it's going to work or just not come on at all..

Morningstar support essentially just said the unit is dead, and is out of the 5 year warranty (although maybe this is debatable as it was manufactured in 2016 but I purchased in 2019)

I've opened it up but haven't found anything obviously burnt out or damaged.. I attached some photos, I'll give it to a local repair shop next week and see if they have any ideas with it. The odd thing being it seems to boot up fine if I try it on 12v or 24v batteries.

So much for my preaching of always buying top tier ?

Changing the dip switches from Autoselect, 12V, 24V, or 48V would not affect the controller powering on and booting up. If you have proof of purchase, I am pretty sure Morningstar will honor that as the warranty start date instead of going off of the serial number. They are generally very good about honoring warranties, I would suggest contacting them back

 

[jamiegreen]

Main post updated, all sorted now!