diy solar

diy solar

Advice on fixing broken weld on battery

jakev383

New Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Texas
Hey everyone - I have a battery where the bus bar broke loose from the terminal. They look welded, so I am trying to figure out if there is enough material in the battery terminal to drill and tap so I can screw the bus bar back down or if using something like Atom AA-DUCT 902 would be my best bet to repair this. Has anyone performed a similar repair or have some advice to offer?
I'm inclined to go with the Atom epoxy since it seems the least invasive, and if that fails I can resort to tapping the terminal next.

20231001_153858.jpg
 
I talked to the one jewelry store we have in town, and they do not have the capability. I might try the next big town over if the epoxy doesn't work out.
I ordered some of the Atom AA-DUCT 902 epoxy, which came today. The post and bar had rough sections from what I believe to be the broken sonic welds, so I cleaned them with alcohol and put a big dollop of the silver epoxy on the top of the post. I pushed the battery up against the bar so that it has some pressure pressing against it, and some of the epoxy extruded through the hole in the bus bar (the higher spot in this picture - I left it thicker there). I went ahead and used some more of the epoxy to smear around on the top of the bar as well. It's a one time use packet so no need to spare any.
It needs to sit for 12-24 hours to cure (12 hours At 25°C or 77°F, and it's 30°C or 86°F right now), so I'll check it tomorrow and see if it's cured. The BMS has turned back on and I am getting 13.14V out of the battery, so I'm hopeful this will work. Once it hardens I'll charge it with some amperage behind it and check to see if it is running hotter than the other connections.

20231004_173432.jpg
 
FWIW, back in the 80's I used silver epoxy to fix a rear window defogger line on a car. The resulting resistance was too high and that section got so hot that the rear window shattered due to the localized heating.

Also, we use silver filled epoxy at work for one of our products. It's not meant for high current applications.
 
So in essence you better drill and tap this instead. You should be able to figure out exactly what cell model it is and then the depth you can safely drill. Put grub screw in and nut to tighten that busbar down. I can't imagine as @AlpineJoe has mentioned that an epoxy can replace metal to metal contact in such a high current environment this is in.
 
I did not get a chance to run much through it today - 40A at most into the battery. I measured temps on the bars in the unit during this period, and didn't really have enough of a variance in temperature to not account for error. A factory welded connection was within 0.1°F of the epoxied contact point. The battery post does have direct contact to the bar, with the epoxy more in place to fill voids and hold everything in place. I plan to test this setup for the next several weeks and then may still put a post into the terminal.

I made a 1mm thick by 1cm wide "trace" of the leftover material last night and tested this with my meter now that it is dry and set. Resistance was 0.1 ohm across a 1cm section for those who may be interested.

I had contacted Atom Adhesives prior to this, and they have been very helpful. For the 902 product they said it should work, but cautioned that I test it. If I needed better conductivity they offered to make a gold mixture epoxy for me, which was pretty interesting but probably more than I want to pay for this test.

I used to use a copper epoxy mix back in the 90s, @AlpineJoe , when I used to fix arcade games. Mountain Dew and Cherry Coke would eat copper traces off of boards when people spilled their drinks and the liquid leaked onto a board. I've not really messed with conductive epoxies since then though.

If nothing else, this is a fun and relatively inexpensive exercise. The battery I'm testing this on was a recent purchase which was damaged in shipping (FedEx guy tossed/tumbled my batteries out of the van onto the driveway, not realizing I was home). The company sent me a replacement battery and is not too interested in me sending the damaged one back so it's no real loss for me.
 
Update from yesterday:
I ran 105A steady for an hour into the battery yesterday (battery sticker says "standard charge/discharge 130A, maximum continuous charge/discharge 250A") and the epoxied connection did run a tad warmer than the welded. The welded connections were around 88.4°F to 90.1°F which was close to ambient at the time - it was probably 88-ish in my shop. The epoxied connection would fluctuate between 89.6°F and 93.3°F with a max variance of 4.8°F. This is the first battery in the series on the positive connection side.
I later lowered the input to 40A to bulk the battery up and let that run until the BMS stopped taking in charge.
 
Are you using infrared or contact temp probe?
Shiny objects don't reflect actual temp with infrared...
 
Back
Top